Rebuliding an olds 350
Rebuliding an olds 350
I wanted some suggestions from all you guys out there that know the olds engine.. I got a 72 442 350 4bbl.. I would like to get high 300's - 400 hp.Its already bored out .30, I plan on getting it decked.. I just want some suggestions on what size cams to get, intake manifold, headers and all that stuff from you guys who build engines on a daily basis.
I don't build on a daily basis so I don't qualify to make any good suggestions but I do want to welcome you to our site. What you have for a goal is attainable but I would suggest to watch how high you make that static cr since gas is high as a kite and it is hard to find good high octane fuel in many places.
Last edited by Oldsguy; Oct 7, 2007 at 07:52 PM. Reason: spelling correction
Once again, I'll caution against the K&N and similar filters. The reason they flow more air is because they let more dirt through. Many, many tests have been done that show increased engine wear when using these filters. I'd recommend frequent changes of AC filters.
I'm with Joe on this one. I put a k&n on at 40000 miles and was rebuilding the carb at 80000. After that I went back to stock, and now I'm at 143000 miles with no troubles at all. Change it when you change the oil. I bought 15 filters at 3 or 4 bucks a pop a few years ago.
as far as builds go, you'd be better off looking at hod rod magazine's various builds. they always have a lot of info on what they did.
And when you're bored check out this Dick Miller build. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...ler/index.html
And when you're bored check out this Dick Miller build. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...ler/index.html
Last edited by J-(Chicago); Sep 29, 2007 at 11:10 AM. Reason: xinsert hyperlinkx
Rebuild a 350 for 300 to 400 HP?
Easy
New Cam (.496/.512 is the hiest I'd go for street)
Dual Plain high rise manifold (Edelbrock makes a nice one)
750 CFM carb (to feed that hungry engine)
new pistons (12.1 CR pistions for BB heads)
new rods (stronger)
new rocker arms (need with new cam)
new pushrods (need with new cam)
stainless valves (Lighter)
3 angle valve job
big block heads, .010 milled (Bring CR down from 79 or 80cc back to 69 to 70cc)
headers (helps move exhaust)
x pipe dual exhasut (Proven to make more power than true dual)
chambered mufflers (Proven to make more power than staigth thrus)
electric fan (reduces drag on motor)
also doesn't hurt to have
tranny cooler
2000 to 2500 torqure convertor
tach
oil pressure gauge
Easy
New Cam (.496/.512 is the hiest I'd go for street)
Dual Plain high rise manifold (Edelbrock makes a nice one)
750 CFM carb (to feed that hungry engine)
new pistons (12.1 CR pistions for BB heads)
new rods (stronger)
new rocker arms (need with new cam)
new pushrods (need with new cam)
stainless valves (Lighter)
3 angle valve job
big block heads, .010 milled (Bring CR down from 79 or 80cc back to 69 to 70cc)
headers (helps move exhaust)
x pipe dual exhasut (Proven to make more power than true dual)
chambered mufflers (Proven to make more power than staigth thrus)
electric fan (reduces drag on motor)
also doesn't hurt to have
tranny cooler
2000 to 2500 torqure convertor
tach
oil pressure gauge
I read/witnessed a really nasty thread over at another site where about five guys argued to the "end of the world" about whether electric accessories like fans and water pumps would put more drag on an engine than their mechanical counterparts. The sad thing, not a single person was an electrical engineer or a mechanical engineer nor had any scientific measurements or proof to back up their respective claims. It got down to name calling and flaming and nobody benefited from the entire thread. Except to know who to avoid in future threads.
I read/witnessed a really nasty thread over at another site where about five guys argued to the "end of the world" about whether electric accessories like fans and water pumps would put more drag on an engine than their mechanical counterparts. The sad thing, not a single person was an electrical engineer or a mechanical engineer nor had any scientific measurements or proof to back up their respective claims. It got down to name calling and flaming and nobody benefited from the entire thread. Except to know who to avoid in future threads. 

I ordered some parts last week.. I got the edelbrock performer rpm intake, comp cam .496/.520 ,new magnum rocker arms with forged pushrods, 650 holly carb, hooker headers, going with a 3 angle valve job port and polished
You simply can not beat a well-built QJet. I ran a 650 Ebrock (squarebore like a Holley) and it did not outperform my QJet...except in wasting a lot of gas in town. The QJet gives you streetability and raceability and can be pro-built for much less than a new carburetor that won't perform as well.
BTW, that's a great cam. Nice lope (if you care about the sound). You can run power brakes and AC with it and still kick some major @ss when needed.
Just my experience....your mileage may vary.
C.J.
Last edited by texasred; Oct 5, 2007 at 02:02 PM.
Rebuild a 350 for 300 to 400 HP?
Easy
New Cam (.496/.512 is the hiest I'd go for street)
Dual Plain high rise manifold (Edelbrock makes a nice one)
750 CFM carb (to feed that hungry engine)
new pistons (12.1 CR pistions for BB heads)
new rods (stronger)
new rocker arms (need with new cam)
new pushrods (need with new cam)
stainless valves (Lighter)
3 angle valve job
big block heads, .010 milled (Bring CR down from 79 or 80cc back to 69 to 70cc)
headers (helps move exhaust)
x pipe dual exhasut (Proven to make more power than true dual)
chambered mufflers (Proven to make more power than staigth thrus)
electric fan (reduces drag on motor)
also doesn't hurt to have
tranny cooler
2000 to 2500 torqure convertor
tach
oil pressure gauge
Easy
New Cam (.496/.512 is the hiest I'd go for street)
Dual Plain high rise manifold (Edelbrock makes a nice one)
750 CFM carb (to feed that hungry engine)
new pistons (12.1 CR pistions for BB heads)
new rods (stronger)
new rocker arms (need with new cam)
new pushrods (need with new cam)
stainless valves (Lighter)
3 angle valve job
big block heads, .010 milled (Bring CR down from 79 or 80cc back to 69 to 70cc)
headers (helps move exhaust)
x pipe dual exhasut (Proven to make more power than true dual)
chambered mufflers (Proven to make more power than staigth thrus)
electric fan (reduces drag on motor)
also doesn't hurt to have
tranny cooler
2000 to 2500 torqure convertor
tach
oil pressure gauge
- Advertised Duration IN/EX: 256/262
- Duration @ .050 IN/EX: 213/219
- Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .485"/.499"
- LSA / ICL: 112/108
- Valve Lash IN/EX: Hyd/Hyd
- RPM Range: 1000-5300
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Actually, I know little about building engines, but welcome to the site.





