Need help with points

ekamm · October 17th, 2009, 08:47 AM

Well the glove box keying worked.(same as ignition locksmith an $8 bucks gets anew key) Great idea and beats the heck out of removing the ignition switch. Turns over and no go so look at the points, not good .My question is with new points whats the proper gap? And what timing mark or process to you use to set them properly? Also while I'm at it the water pump is frozen. New pump $? Or new bearing?

redoldsman · October 17th, 2009, 09:42 AM

I was going to come off the cuff and say .016 or 30 degrees is you put a dwell meter on them. I checked my 54 shop manual and those are the correct numbers.

I recommend getting yourself a shop manual for your car. You can find them on ebay. If you can find an original instead of a reprint it is better. Check prices closely because I have found they vary greatly. You should be able to get one for about 30 bucks and it will pay for itself quickly.

citcapp · October 17th, 2009, 10:46 AM

X2 on the manual. Hard to do anything on these cars without one.

ekamm · October 17th, 2009, 10:51 AM

I will get a manual just wanted a little info for the interim.

Tedd Thompson · October 19th, 2009, 10:56 PM

Are you getting fire to the plugs? Could be a shot coil or condensor.See where the fire stops, and work from there. Even though the timming is off somewhat, it should pop a time or two if it has gas and juice. I would replace the old water pump with a new one. I have never gotten into the guts of a worn out pump. I'm sure it could be done. Thats what happens when they rebuild them. Keep us posted....Tedd

ekamm · October 20th, 2009, 05:13 AM

No, the points are all corroded. It has set for years and need to be replaced with the rotor and condenser coil is ok. I just needed the gap thanks

bigoldscruiser · October 20th, 2009, 07:52 AM

Put in a Pertronix and forget about the points problem forever. Costs a bit more up front but pays for itself in the long run.

citcapp · October 21st, 2009, 06:11 PM

Set the dwell to 30 degrees.

csstrux · October 23rd, 2009, 05:58 PM

A quicky get you running trick, assuming you can find one and the timing is set is to get the points at the crown on the distributor shaft and use a matchbook cover as a feeler gauge, should be about .016. That should get you running. I don't know where to obtain a dwell meter (or use of one) so usually use that as my gauge for setting points.

October 17th, 2009, 08:47 AM	#1 (permalink)
ekamm Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 16	Need help with points Well the glove box keying worked.(same as ignition locksmith an $8 bucks gets anew key) Great idea and beats the heck out of removing the ignition switch. Turns over and no go so look at the points, not good .My question is with new points whats the proper gap? And what timing mark or process to you use to set them properly? Also while I'm at it the water pump is frozen. New pump $? Or new bearing?

October 17th, 2009, 09:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
redoldsman Proud Viet Nam Veteran Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rowlett, TX Posts: 480	I was going to come off the cuff and say .016 or 30 degrees is you put a dwell meter on them. I checked my 54 shop manual and those are the correct numbers. I recommend getting yourself a shop manual for your car. You can find them on ebay. If you can find an original instead of a reprint it is better. Check prices closely because I have found they vary greatly. You should be able to get one for about 30 bucks and it will pay for itself quickly. __________________ redoldsman

October 17th, 2009, 10:46 AM	#3 (permalink)
citcapp Super Moderator Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 3,445	X2 on the manual. Hard to do anything on these cars without one. __________________ Pat 1957 Super 88 with a 455 1948 2dr series 76 with a 455

October 19th, 2009, 10:56 PM	#5 (permalink)
Tedd Thompson Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Forest Ranch Ca. Posts: 21	Are you getting fire to the plugs? Could be a shot coil or condensor.See where the fire stops, and work from there. Even though the timming is off somewhat, it should pop a time or two if it has gas and juice. I would replace the old water pump with a new one. I have never gotten into the guts of a worn out pump. I'm sure it could be done. Thats what happens when they rebuild them. Keep us posted....Tedd __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

October 21st, 2009, 06:11 PM	#8 (permalink)
citcapp Super Moderator Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 3,445	Set the dwell to 30 degrees. __________________ Pat 1957 Super 88 with a 455 1948 2dr series 76 with a 455

October 17th, 2009, 10:51 AM	#4 (permalink)
ekamm Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 16	I will get a manual just wanted a little info for the interim.

October 20th, 2009, 05:13 AM	#6 (permalink)
ekamm Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 16	No, the points are all corroded. It has set for years and need to be replaced with the rotor and condenser coil is ok. I just needed the gap thanks

October 20th, 2009, 07:52 AM	#7 (permalink)
bigoldscruiser 2 '66 98's Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: central New Jersey Posts: 170	Put in a Pertronix and forget about the points problem forever. Costs a bit more up front but pays for itself in the long run.

October 23rd, 2009, 05:58 PM	#9 (permalink)
csstrux Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Janesville wisconsin Posts: 1,659	A quicky get you running trick, assuming you can find one and the timing is set is to get the points at the crown on the distributor shaft and use a matchbook cover as a feeler gauge, should be about .016. That should get you running. I don't know where to obtain a dwell meter (or use of one) so usually use that as my gauge for setting points. __________________ Chad Greed: in psychology is an excessive desire to acquire or possess more than what one needs or deserves, especially with respect to material wealth

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