Transmission Oil Change - Newbie

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Old Jul 11, 2009 | 09:08 AM
  #1  
Joeypete's Avatar
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Transmission Oil Change - Newbie

Howdy! Just wondering if anyone can give me some tips on dropping the trans pan and changing the fluid/filter. I've never done it before but it seems fairly easy and thought I'd save myself 50 bucks or so and do it myself.

I'm changing the oil on my '86 Custom Cruiser first...307 with 200-4R.

It shifts great and no problems that I'm aware of. The pan gasket looks damp so I think it's crapping out...that's why I want to change it...before it starts leaking all over.

Do the filters just pop off on these or do they have bolts?

Thank you!
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 09:36 AM
  #2  
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The filter usually just has 2 bolts or screws on it. You'll see it once the pan is off. Remember what holes the filter bolts go in.
Take all the bolts out of the pan, and drop the pan down.

Clean up your pan, lay the new gasket on the pan lip, put a few bolts in the corners to hold the gasket to the pan, and hand tighten it up.

Torque pan bolts to 13 lb ft.
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:08 AM
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Sweet...thanks...doesn't sound too dicky felt
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Originally Posted by Joeypete
Howdy! Just wondering if anyone can give me some tips on dropping the trans pan and changing the fluid/filter. I've never done it before but it seems fairly easy and thought I'd save myself 50 bucks or so and do it myself.

I'm changing the oil on my '86 Custom Cruiser first...307 with 200-4R.

It shifts great and no problems that I'm aware of. The pan gasket looks damp so I think it's crapping out...that's why I want to change it...before it starts leaking all over.

Do the filters just pop off on these or do they have bolts?

Thank you!
Had a 307 with a 200-4R also. Keep it regularly maintained and it'll last a good long time. Far as the tranny goes? How many miles on it? Mine crapped out at 35,000. The sun gear was shot and so were the clutch plates. Got it fixed at AAMCO and it ran flawless after that. They changed the trans oil and filter every year after that under warranty for the 20 year that I owned the car. Be sure to check the bottom of the pan and the filter for any evidence of metal shaving.

In a big car like a 98? It was no screamer off the line; in fact I think it was underpowered, but the 200-4R did give it an economical final drive ratio.

Anyway, let us know how it turns out.
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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Yeah it's a bit of a slug...though since I've tuned up the engine and fixed some stuff it moves a long pretty good. My Toronado is noticeably stronger, though it also has about half the mileage on it and is probably close to 500 pounds lighter...lol.

The wagon has about 115K...but like I said, it shifts great. I haven't noticed any slippage or anything with it.
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #6  
Allan R's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Joeypete
Yeah it's a bit of a slug...though since I've tuned up the engine and fixed some stuff it moves a long pretty good. My Toronado is noticeably stronger, though it also has about half the mileage on it and is probably close to 500 pounds lighter...lol.

The wagon has about 115K...but like I said, it shifts great. I haven't noticed any slippage or anything with it.
Yup, from 0 to about 45 miles per hour, it goes really nice. After that??? well let's say that you wanted to plan ahead for that high speed pass at 70 miles per hour. BTW, check your differential. If your car has a limited slip, it's about time to change the fluid. Mine started shaking and vibrating around corners and a fluid change fixed that really fast. About at the same mileage. Keeping the engine tuned like you say does help a lot. The 307 isn't one of the strongest engines Olds ever made. I found that it started really nice, ran smooth and cool, but low compression really needed that tranny to help it out. What's in the Toro? I know that the 200-4R had a relatively short production run in the big Olds B Bodies. They changed to the 700 series supposedly it was stronger and more reliable. Here's a link to the 700 and 200 from a web site: http://www.hotrodders.com/articles/TH-700R4_basics.html
Old Jul 11, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Yes exactly...it moves great up until that point...but you know last night I got up to 60 without even noticing...seriously...I had no idea I was going that fast...lol.

I will change the differential fluid as well...it most likely should be changed. How do I know if I have the limited slip?

The Toro has the THM-325-4L. I have to change the fluid on that too...but really it's in super good shape so I've been concentrating on getting the wagon up and running...it was in dire need of a tune up, etc.
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 04:06 PM
  #8  
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Well I changed the fluid and filter on my Toronado today. Damn what a messy job, ack! The filter looked fairly clean and the fluid wasn't that dirty, so I'm not sure as it really needed it, but it was shifting kind of hard so I decided to flush it. I also added a bottle of Lucas Transmission treatment...seems like good stuff.

Now I have to do it in the Custom Cruiser...that pan is leaking...but I figured I'd just wait until I change the oil next time.
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 05:02 PM
  #9  
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yes, it is almost always messy.
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jensenracing77
yes, it is almost always messy.
Yes, I make a mess also. I own stock in floor dry.
Old Aug 9, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #11  
Joeypete's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 380 Racer
Yes, I make a mess also. I own stock in floor dry.
haha. I had a fairly good sized puddle under the car. Of course where I had the drain pan positioned, the trans pan fell on the other side, so it made quite a mess

It would have been easier had I raised the car more. I have this major phobia with working under the car so I never raise it up high..lol. I'm always afraid the jack stand will fail and crush me....valid worry i guess, but I shouldn't so much
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