hope I'm in the right spot here. Car almost starts.
hope I'm in the right spot here. Car almost starts.
Get everyone, my car 1989 toronado won't really start sometimes its hit or miss and I don't know what this could be caused by. but I hope you guys do ill describe it the best of my ability.
when I turn the ignition the electrical pops on and then it goes to start the car but it sounds like its starting but stops right before the *chzz vroom* (hahaha great sound effects right?) so it doesn't start. it reaches the peak and stops well one time I thought it started it sure as hell sounded like it but it didn't. I put it into reverse to drive to my girlfriends grad party about halfway in the street I realize hey my car isn't running, turn the key over and it starts. I also started it just fine to get home.
sorry about the scattered thoughts and non chronological order of things. I'm pretty scatter-brained at the moment. long day
when I turn the ignition the electrical pops on and then it goes to start the car but it sounds like its starting but stops right before the *chzz vroom* (hahaha great sound effects right?) so it doesn't start. it reaches the peak and stops well one time I thought it started it sure as hell sounded like it but it didn't. I put it into reverse to drive to my girlfriends grad party about halfway in the street I realize hey my car isn't running, turn the key over and it starts. I also started it just fine to get home.
sorry about the scattered thoughts and non chronological order of things. I'm pretty scatter-brained at the moment. long day
The reason I ask is because I'm thinking you might have a neutral safety switch problem. A few guys here lately have been having that issue. Check out that manual Alan posted for you and see if you can troubleshoot it there. If not, get back to us and well see if we can help
Steve, I was waiting in the wings to hear that. I had a nagging thought on the same thing but wasn't really sure. I did have a SNS go out on me once, and when it did the car wouldn't start - period. And mine failed in park position too. It was on an 85 Calais which is a similar body design to this Toro.
Something to remember is it's called a "neutral" safety switch for a reason. If it won't start in "park" you can always put the shifter in "neutral" and usually it will. There is a wider range for movement in the "neutral" position that allows the switch to activate and permit the start sequence.
Tedd, I'm not sure how it would slip back and forth between a tooth...but if it was the timing chain slipping I would think the car would run funny. And if it's a stock chain I would think that the plastic teeth would shear off once it started to slip under a load...who know's, maybe not.
Tedd, I'm not sure how it would slip back and forth between a tooth...but if it was the timing chain slipping I would think the car would run funny. And if it's a stock chain I would think that the plastic teeth would shear off once it started to slip under a load...who know's, maybe not.
Aha! Learned something new about the NSS. 1. I was calling it the wrong thing. 2. I prolly could have started my car if I had slipped it into neutral. The dealership I towed it to did say the NSS was the problem BTW. Fortunately it was under warranty at the time. Thanks for the clarification!!
Not sure on that gen Toronado, but I think most other GM had gone to a mechanical neutral start system by then. Key could be turned to "start" only in Park or Neutral. My Custom Cruiser is like that.
Well I tried sticking it in neutral to get it to start (sorry I've been away getting stuff done for school and getting glasses and such.) Anyway We haven't really touched the car my mom was like "Let's try to jump it" didn't see how that would work but now it just clicks, and I don't think my batter is dead because lights and stuff come on but the red line for my battery on the dash is missing however I'm car impaired. So I'm not sure what's going on.
Ahh, so could my alternator be busted? because it died just sitting in the driveway. It was only turned on once to start it in neutral and that didn't work. Also thanks For all your help everyone. 



Eric, he doesn't have any car experience. It won't even crank...otherwise I'd tell him to check it running and see if the alternator is putting out 13.1 volts.
Unless you can get a jump and get it running there's not much a voltmeter can tell you except that the batry doesn't have any voltage. He said it's just clicking when they try to crank it...I figure that's the starter solenoid trying but not getting enough batry juice.
Unless you can get a jump and get it running there's not much a voltmeter can tell you except that the batry doesn't have any voltage. He said it's just clicking when they try to crank it...I figure that's the starter solenoid trying but not getting enough batry juice.
Eric, he doesn't have any car experience. It won't even crank...otherwise I'd tell him to check it running and see if the alternator is putting out 13.1 volts.
Unless you can get a jump and get it running there's not much a voltmeter can tell you except that the batry doesn't have any voltage. He said it's just clicking when they try to crank it...I figure that's the starter solenoid trying but not getting enough batry juice.
Unless you can get a jump and get it running there's not much a voltmeter can tell you except that the batry doesn't have any voltage. He said it's just clicking when they try to crank it...I figure that's the starter solenoid trying but not getting enough batry juice.
No argument, but if he's going to own any car ever, he should have a voltmeter.
Maybe not a fancy digital multimeter that will make eggs for you and keep them warm, but at least a plain old $5 Chinese voltmeter. He could pick one up in a huge variety of places.
It's one of the few "super-basic must-have" tools we should all have, or get. Today.
Even if he can't get it running, a voltmeter is useful in this case, because if he checks the voltage, and it's about 12.5, and it drops to 12.2 when he cranks, then he can declare the battery well, and go on to look at cables, connections, etc.
If, on the other hand, the voltage is 10.5, he's got a bad cell, and if the voltage is 11.5 and goes down to 8 when he cranks, then the battery's dead, but the connections are probably good.
My point is that if he has (or can go out right now and get) a single cheap tool, he can learn a lot with a one minute test.
- Eric
Maybe not a fancy digital multimeter that will make eggs for you and keep them warm, but at least a plain old $5 Chinese voltmeter. He could pick one up in a huge variety of places.
It's one of the few "super-basic must-have" tools we should all have, or get. Today.
Even if he can't get it running, a voltmeter is useful in this case, because if he checks the voltage, and it's about 12.5, and it drops to 12.2 when he cranks, then he can declare the battery well, and go on to look at cables, connections, etc.
If, on the other hand, the voltage is 10.5, he's got a bad cell, and if the voltage is 11.5 and goes down to 8 when he cranks, then the battery's dead, but the connections are probably good.
My point is that if he has (or can go out right now and get) a single cheap tool, he can learn a lot with a one minute test.
- Eric
So I took my parts to O'Reilly and had them tested Getting the starter out was horrid but The starter was good and the alternator is shot so we picked up a new one, and my car was running then stalled but it needed gas so that took a minute to run to the gas station, it runs pretty much like new. Need a battery and some new brake lines, and a thermostat and I should be good! Thanks for all your help everyone
Bad alternator, bad alternator!!! Now that the new one is in you should have no problem. BTW, this may sound silly but it's not. Most people don't know there's a front and back side to a T stat. Check it - there will be a side that says - motor the other side will say 'rad'. If you install it wrong it can lead to improper coolant flow and slight overheating.
Well, glad to hear you're not afraid to tackle a job. Just because you have limited experience now doesn't mean you won't be a competent mechanic down the road.
Though truth be known, I've almost gotten to where I hate to work on cars. Lower back problems flare up about every time I mess with something anymore, which is why I sweat when I drive the wagon. It needs an A/C compressor and I just don't feel like leaning over in there to change it out, knowing I'll be down with my back a couple days afterward.
Though truth be known, I've almost gotten to where I hate to work on cars. Lower back problems flare up about every time I mess with something anymore, which is why I sweat when I drive the wagon. It needs an A/C compressor and I just don't feel like leaning over in there to change it out, knowing I'll be down with my back a couple days afterward.
Doesn't keep me from fixing what I've got to fix, though.
I figure better off nursing a sore back for a few days than lubing up someplace lower down in preparation for a "treatment" from a mechanic.
- Eric
yay alternator........pretty common problem. all the stuff you listed is DIY if you're any kind of hands on type. It's basically unbolting, cleaning and putting back together for all those mini projects. Good luck to you sir. Glad to see you found your problem.
I had a similar issue with a 1999 Buick Lesabre Custom, Drove fine for a month or two then all of a sudden random no starts. It wouldn't even crank, meaning the starter would spin but wouldn't kick out like it's supposed to grab the other gear and start the car, anyway replaced starter @ 150bux.....grrr............drives fine for a day then same problem, I take it down to the electrical car guy "sammy's electric" and he fixes it for 240 bux~! omg. anyway it turned out to be a dealer installed ignition lock, electronic of course wired right in the column. then about 6 months later the engine blew the head gaskets and i had chocolate milk in my oil =( that's when i bought an OLDS. =)
I had a similar issue with a 1999 Buick Lesabre Custom, Drove fine for a month or two then all of a sudden random no starts. It wouldn't even crank, meaning the starter would spin but wouldn't kick out like it's supposed to grab the other gear and start the car, anyway replaced starter @ 150bux.....grrr............drives fine for a day then same problem, I take it down to the electrical car guy "sammy's electric" and he fixes it for 240 bux~! omg. anyway it turned out to be a dealer installed ignition lock, electronic of course wired right in the column. then about 6 months later the engine blew the head gaskets and i had chocolate milk in my oil =( that's when i bought an OLDS. =)
yay alternator........pretty common problem. all the stuff you listed is DIY if you're any kind of hands on type. It's basically unbolting, cleaning and putting back together for all those mini projects. Good luck to you sir. Glad to see you found your problem.
I had a similar issue with a 1999 Buick Lesabre Custom, Drove fine for a month or two then all of a sudden random no starts. It wouldn't even crank, meaning the starter would spin but wouldn't kick out like it's supposed to grab the other gear and start the car, anyway replaced starter @ 150bux.....grrr............drives fine for a day then same problem, I take it down to the electrical car guy "sammy's electric" and he fixes it for 240 bux~! omg. anyway it turned out to be a dealer installed ignition lock, electronic of course wired right in the column. then about 6 months later the engine blew the head gaskets and i had chocolate milk in my oil =( that's when i bought an OLDS. =)
I had a similar issue with a 1999 Buick Lesabre Custom, Drove fine for a month or two then all of a sudden random no starts. It wouldn't even crank, meaning the starter would spin but wouldn't kick out like it's supposed to grab the other gear and start the car, anyway replaced starter @ 150bux.....grrr............drives fine for a day then same problem, I take it down to the electrical car guy "sammy's electric" and he fixes it for 240 bux~! omg. anyway it turned out to be a dealer installed ignition lock, electronic of course wired right in the column. then about 6 months later the engine blew the head gaskets and i had chocolate milk in my oil =( that's when i bought an OLDS. =)
Either way yeah, I've been having my dad show me how to do all the repairs and such, So I'm not spending too much money Hell I bought two alternators for $30
just today I went somewhere and on my way back my key wouldn't even turn over I was like what the hell and tried and tried and the little black part the key goes into I tugged on it, it clicked and my key turned. *shrugs* I don't know why but I got home so who cares lol.
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