Help with vacuum system 68 Toro

Jaokiray · January 30th, 2008, 07:07 PM

The vacuum system for the headlights doesn't work. Additionally, the windows work very slightly. Anyone have any hints, diagrmas, layouts, line sizes to fix would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

2blu442 · January 30th, 2008, 10:11 PM

If you plan to keep the car I strongly recommend you purchase a 1968 Chassis Service Manual. You can see them on ebay often, price may vary from $25 to $75 for a used slightly battered one to a repop. That will have nice diagrams and or photos that will show you the vacuum lines and wires for the power windows. John

August 16th, 2008, 09:24 AM

9 times out of 10 it is a cracked and/or spit rubber line.

rocketraider · August 16th, 2008, 12:29 PM

Do you mean as it won't open, or stays open all the time? You really need the service book to find all the components and locations.

Trace ALL your vacuum lines out and make sure none are split or unhooked. After 40 years dry rot can set in and create problems. Some of them are hidden from plain sight. A good place to start is make sure the vacuum line is connected to the intake manifold and to the vacuum tank at the left front of engine bay. If it's not connected, the vacuum system is simply not going to work.

Can you manually open the grilles?

The grille vacuum motor is behind the middle of the front bumper and not easy to get at.

Make sure the vacuum line is connected to the headlight switch, and listen for a vacuum leak hiss there with engine running. It can be disassembled and put a light coat of silicone valve lubricant in the vacuum section for a temporary fix. My 69 has been running that way for nearly 20 years. Valve lube- not RTV. Valve lube doesn't dry out.

There's a vacuum relay valve behind the left fender underhood. Also a three-port vacuum check valve that can usually be seen between the vacuum tank and fender.

Next- if it's a W34 car there is a vacuum switch in the left radiator tank that opens the grilles if engine overheats.

If all vacuum lines and connections are good, any of these components can cause headlight problems.

Do the windows work sluggishly from all switches, or just from master switch? Any switch could have some corrosion buildup on the contacts which will cause sluggish operation. You may have to pull the interior panels and clean/lubricate the tracks. If you're luck it's not bad motors- they're a PITA to replace.

I've noticed a lot of obsolete parts vendors have gotten rather pricey on Toronado electrical and vacuum parts. One in particular advertises any 68-70 part he's selling as W34 or GT, and I've called his hand on it a couple times. If it weren't for his grossly inflated prices, I wouldn't bother.

August 16th, 2008, 07:32 PM

If you are talikng about the Bill guy from CA, Orignally Plus. Guy is a super jerk.
I ordered a 69 Toronado headlight switch from him, plus other stuff(I had the parts mailed to a friend's house inOhio), he did not mail the switch, ie it was MY fault, bagged he makes $15,000-$20,000 on Ebay.
I told Bill Payne , president of the Toronado Owner's Assication, 3 or 4 years ago, to ban this dude from the Toronado club.
12-15 years ago he blew his cigar smoke in my friend's face.
Like I said before the only reason I am selling my blue 68 W-34 (and my silver 68 Toro)is to try like the devil to get my Dad's 1963 Starfire back

January 30th, 2008, 07:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
Jaokiray Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ohio Posts: 1	Help with vacuum system 68 Toro The vacuum system for the headlights doesn't work. Additionally, the windows work very slightly. Anyone have any hints, diagrmas, layouts, line sizes to fix would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

January 30th, 2008, 10:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
2blu442 Moderator Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Medford, Oregon Posts: 2,209	If you plan to keep the car I strongly recommend you purchase a 1968 Chassis Service Manual. You can see them on ebay often, price may vary from $25 to $75 for a used slightly battered one to a repop. That will have nice diagrams and or photos that will show you the vacuum lines and wires for the power windows. John __________________ 1964 Cutlass Factory 4spd 1965 442 4spd 1967 442 Auto 1967 Cutlass Convertible 1967 Cutlass four door daily driver 1968 442 Auto 1969 442 W30 Auto 1970 442 4spd 1971 Cutlass Flat Top Wagon 1973 Che*vy 3/4 Ton 454/TH400 Tow Vehicle Only the tow vehicle is finished!

August 16th, 2008, 12:29 PM	#4 (permalink)
rocketraider Oldsdruid Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Danville Vajenya, the Last Capital of Dixie Posts: 1,191	Do you mean as it won't open, or stays open all the time? You really need the service book to find all the components and locations. Trace ALL your vacuum lines out and make sure none are split or unhooked. After 40 years dry rot can set in and create problems. Some of them are hidden from plain sight. A good place to start is make sure the vacuum line is connected to the intake manifold and to the vacuum tank at the left front of engine bay. If it's not connected, the vacuum system is simply not going to work. Can you manually open the grilles? The grille vacuum motor is behind the middle of the front bumper and not easy to get at. Make sure the vacuum line is connected to the headlight switch, and listen for a vacuum leak hiss there with engine running. It can be disassembled and put a light coat of silicone valve lubricant in the vacuum section for a temporary fix. My 69 has been running that way for nearly 20 years. Valve lube- not RTV. Valve lube doesn't dry out. There's a vacuum relay valve behind the left fender underhood. Also a three-port vacuum check valve that can usually be seen between the vacuum tank and fender. Next- if it's a W34 car there is a vacuum switch in the left radiator tank that opens the grilles if engine overheats. If all vacuum lines and connections are good, any of these components can cause headlight problems. Do the windows work sluggishly from all switches, or just from master switch? Any switch could have some corrosion buildup on the contacts which will cause sluggish operation. You may have to pull the interior panels and clean/lubricate the tracks. If you're luck it's not bad motors- they're a PITA to replace. I've noticed a lot of obsolete parts vendors have gotten rather pricey on Toronado electrical and vacuum parts. One in particular advertises any 68-70 part he's selling as W34 or GT, and I've called his hand on it a couple times. If it weren't for his grossly inflated prices, I wouldn't bother. __________________ I know absolutely nothing about Oldsmobiles. Just ask the owner of Oldspower.com

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August 16th, 2008, 09:24 AM	#3 (permalink)
Toro68 Guest Posts: n/a	9 times out of 10 it is a cracked and/or spit rubber line.

August 16th, 2008, 07:32 PM	#5 (permalink)
Toro68 Guest Posts: n/a	If you are talikng about the Bill guy from CA, Orignally Plus. Guy is a super jerk. I ordered a 69 Toronado headlight switch from him, plus other stuff(I had the parts mailed to a friend's house inOhio), he did not mail the switch, ie it was MY fault, bagged he makes $15,000-$20,000 on Ebay. I told Bill Payne , president of the Toronado Owner's Assication, 3 or 4 years ago, to ban this dude from the Toronado club. 12-15 years ago he blew his cigar smoke in my friend's face. Like I said before the only reason I am selling my blue 68 W-34 (and my silver 68 Toro)is to try like the devil to get my Dad's 1963 Starfire back