Proper coolant mix

[Redog]

For a SBO, what is it?

I'm running 50/50 and I tested it with one of those ball tester thingies and it came back +20 to 215. Personally I think this isn't good enough. However I tested a bottle of straight antifreeze and it back the same way Doesn't sound right.

Anyway, The car overheated about a month ago due to the belt breaking and not turning the waterpump. everything's fine now, but 215 for Philadelphia area summer driving, just doesn't seem good enough.

I have a 180* thermo and a 195* (temp on) fan. It wasn't too hot last month and the temp was creaping up to 200* while I was stopped. Outside temp on this day was in the high 70's

[Oldsguy]

Most of those products are ANTI-FREEZE additives for your coolant. They are not intended to improve coolant performance in hot weather. Many racers use pure water with a water pump lubricant like water-wetter. Some people do the same with daily drivers, especially in the summer.

[Redog]

My racing buddy told me to swap out the 180* thermo for a 160* one. and put the 180* back in in the winter

I was thinking that would be too cool

He has a 500 ci Mopar dragster, so I'm thinking he knows what he's talking about

[Oldsguy]

There is an active thread about a 4 core radiator, read it, there is a post about an engine not warming quickly enough with a 160 degree thermostat because it opens too soon, this might affect the engine warm up, don't know about driving conditions after warm up though.

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by Redog

........ I'm running 50/50 ........

You already have your answer.

Originally Posted by Redog

........ I have a 180* thermo and a 195* (temp on) fan ........

An electric fan? Why?

Originally Posted by Redog

........ the temp was creaping up to 200* while I was stopped ........

Not a problem until it goes over 240°.

In gear with the brake on? What idle speed/ignition advance? Was the vacuum advance/thermal switch working properly?

How accurate is your gauge?

Originally Posted by Redog

........ told me to swap out the 180* thermo for a 160* one. and put the 180* back in in the winter ........

You have a 180° stat, and the system runs over 200°. It runs at that temp, because once the stat is fully open (at 180°) coolant temps are beyond its control.

Now, someone told you to replace it with a 160°, not knowing that it cannot change your max operating temp.

Originally Posted by Redog

........ so I'm thinking he knows what he's talking about

And, I'm thinking, he does not have a clue.

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

There is an active thread about a 4 core radiator ........

The one about about which aftermarket bolt ons the guy should use?

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

........ there is a post about an engine not warming quickly enough with a 160 degree thermostat because it opens too soon ........

Makes no sense. If it opens too soon, it's faulty, and there is nothing to discuss.

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

........ this might affect the engine warm up, don't know about driving conditions after warm up though.

Stat has only one purpose: Raise (warm up) the coolant temp to, and maintain, its designed operating level.

Norm

[Oldsguy]

Originally Posted by 88 coupe

The one about about which aftermarket bolt ons the guy should use?

You got me there, I should have found it and quoted it, leaves room for confusion. No, I was thinking about another one. I'll find it. It was this
one. Rallye469 mentioned the 160 degree thermostat moving the water too fast, I interpreted it him to be saying too soon, thinking that is what he meant and moved on from there with the same thought.

Makes no sense. If it opens too soon, it's faulty, and there is nothing to discuss.

Opened sooner than the 180 degree thermostat, allowing the coolant to circulate before the engine fully warmed up.

Stat has only one purpose: Raise (warm up) the coolant temp to, and maintain, its designed operating level.

Yes, I agree.

I should have stayed out of this one, my response was too vague and caused confusion.

[Redog]

My ign system is not working that good. I replaced the advance, cap, rotor, and coil (stock voltage) but the weights aren't working still and I don't want to get that far into it. I can get my hands on a Summit one with gift cards

In gear while stopped, idle is about 750 to 800

[Jokers69]

I should have stayed out of this one, my response was too vague and caused confusion.

no it wasn't..

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

........ It was this one ........

Same one.

joe_p pointed the OP in the right direction, and and he chose to (wrongly) argue, an irrelevant technicality, instead of paying attention to the message.

You can see why I chose not to participate.

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

........ Rallye469 mentioned the 160 degree thermostat moving the water too fast ........

He says a lot of things. This time, it is another urban myth that has been discredited numerous times on, to name only one source, ROP.

If (a properly designed system) overheats with no thermostat, the problem is elsewhere.

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

........ Opened sooner than the 180 degree thermostat, allowing the coolant to circulate before the engine fully warmed up ........

Coolant begins circulating immediately at startup, via the bypass hose, regardless of its temperature.

By design, a 160° stat should be fully open at about 160° and a 180° at about 180°.

With all other factors being equal:

It takes X minutes for the coolant to reach 155° with a 160° stat. How long will it take with a 180° stat?

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

........ I should have stayed out of this one, my response was too vague and caused confusion.

Not at all. It promoted more discussion. I believe everyone knows my position, in this area.

Confusion only erupts, when a participant is immature enough to consider personal attacks/flames/name calling, a legitimate part of the process.

Norm

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by Redog

........ I replaced the advance ........ ........ but the weights aren't working still ........

Weights are an integral part of the advance mechanism.

What "advance" did you replace?

Originally Posted by Redog

........ cap, rotor ........

Normal PM (periodic maintenance) along with points, plugs, and wires.

Originally Posted by Redog

........ and coil ........

Why did you replace it?

Landfills abound with perfectly good coils (and thermostats) that were mistakenly replaced.

Originally Posted by Redog

........ (stock voltage) ........

The Delco coil, that came with the car/engine, is capable of handling far more than your engine will ever need. Except for those who sit in a lawn chair next to their open hood, any "upgrade" is a waste of money.

Originally Posted by Redog

........ but the weights aren't working still ........

Why? If they don't move, there must be an obvious reason.

If you can twist the rotor to the right (counterclockwise) against the springs, it's a good start. If it returns when you release it, you should be able to free the weights up without removing the distributor.

Originally Posted by Redog

........I can get my hands on a Summit one with gift cards ........

Chev Mentality: Buy new parts, whether they are needed or not. Buy them because they are cheap and plentiful.

Originally Posted by Redog

........ In gear while stopped, idle is about 750 to 800

A bit high, but with a stock engine/torque converter, it should not cause problem.

Norm