BLUE SMOKE (long thread w/lotta detail)

77 oldsMAbrotha · July 26th, 2007, 05:59 PM

Hello again

This is no smiling matter.
77 350 (99,000miles) is blowing blue smoke out the exhaust pipe while sitting at stoplights. I pulled all the plugs and it looks like ONLY the #1 plug is covered in oil. B4 i had the intake(RPM), carb(750 man.choke edel.), fuel pump, distributor cap, rotor, wires and of course plugs all replaced, compression was checked on all cylinders and was fine. "When doing compression check I was told to use oil can and squirt oil into each cylinder in spark plug 'hole'." SO I DID
This was when the smoke problem all began!!!
All the way to the shop it smoked. After I started for the first time from the shop it smoked constantly for 20 minutes and 10 miles now only smokes when driving and then come to a stop, NOT when it's in motion or when started up and allowed to idle. I replaced all the plugs ran fine for a couple of drives, and now back to smoking, again ONLY #1 plug covered in oil. Could it be the oil burning off in that cylinder, OR could this be a more serious problem?
Where should I go from here?

Redog · July 26th, 2007, 06:25 PM

Blue smoke, severe engine ware

Rebuild or get rid of, sorry

J-(Chicago) · July 28th, 2007, 02:05 PM

Drain some oil out and run a bunch of motor flush in it. Idle it for 10 minutes, and change the oil. Then get a can of B12 chem tool, pour it in a dog bowl, & pull out your pcv valve leaving it attached to the hose. Have a buddy keep the rpms up on the motor while you let the pcv suck up the chemtool out of the dog bowl. That should yield a good amount of smoke, but your motor will be nice and clean if you have to rebuild.

One time My kid brother topped off to the filler cap, SAE 30 in the lawnmower and it was smoking blue like CRAZY. It was ruined after that. It would only run with the oil fill cap off for some reason, and it's no good mowing the lawn with oil and grass/dirt spattering everywhere.

American Lead · July 28th, 2007, 06:16 PM

I'm thinking it could bad a bad valve seat, I doubt it would be bad rings/walls on just one cylinder... What do you guys think? I also think that it is not a good idea to put anything in your oil, I am told that this is instant knock for older cars. I am not sure and I wouldn't recommend it without a second opnion, But is is it possible to run a hotter plg in cyl #1? What you guys say?

77 oldsMAbrotha · July 29th, 2007, 09:27 AM

thanks for all the input and suggestions.

If it turns out that I have to rebuild, then where should I begin?

What steps should be taken to ensure the process will be worth the money spent...

to own a 350hp '77 block that will be driven daily with an iron foot.

texasred · July 29th, 2007, 10:01 AM

You said the compression check was "fine". What was the lowest-highest? Redo the compression check WITHOUT the oil can trick and post results.

C.J.

texasred · July 29th, 2007, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keith6989

I'm thinking it could bad a bad valve seat, I doubt it would be bad rings/walls on just one cylinder... What do you guys think? I also think that it is not a good idea to put anything in your oil, I am told that this is instant knock for older cars. I am not sure and I wouldn't recommend it without a second opnion, But is is it possible to run a hotter plg in cyl #1? What you guys say?

Depends on his definition of "fine" for the compression check....but a bad valve or valve seat usually won't be "fixed" by a squirt of oil before doing a compression check. And bad rings in one cylinder is certainly possible.

I agree with you on the "mystery oil" additives. Masking a problem is NOT a good idea!

C.J.

$tryker · July 29th, 2007, 05:03 PM

You didn't state the results of the compression test. If we are to assume they are within accepted standards, I would have to guess a badly worn intake guide or valve seals. Then only the top half would have to come off for rebuilding.

Jim's rare 80 · July 30th, 2007, 05:20 AM

Hi. Did you put in the oil before the compression test? The procedure is, 1, do a test to all 8 cylinders, no oil. record readings. 2, add a bit of oil to each cylinder, and do the test again. The oil is added to the second test so you can test valve compression. Adding oil will bring up compression if your valve seals are ok. Do a dry test, just to be sure, but my guess is a valve seal job, not a rebuild. Let us know. jim.

77 oldsMAbrotha · August 1st, 2007, 06:15 PM

In VA, till friday and planning pulling the {3A}heads beginning SAT morning...

Tested all cylinders once, and pressure rose and held steady in all cylinders.
Tested Again, using oil, and pressure rose and held steady in all cylinders.

Pressure fluctuated + 0 to +7(Hg measurement) AT most as motor was cranked, but it rose and held steady. SOMEONE lost the numbers, but pressure rose +10( ) total most between highest and lowest reading cylinders.

I 've seen that happening when testing the not failing, but the lesser performing valves of the same quality in mechanical fuel pumps.

??...to the machine shop for a cylinder head updo?

Gonna let everyone know the deal soon as I get at it

77 oldsMAbrotha · August 8th, 2007, 04:59 PM

#12 3 5 7 8; 155 And #4 6; 170 No Oil

$tryker · August 21st, 2007, 07:28 PM

When you preformed the compression test, did you utilize a battery charger? If not, then the last few runs will be lower.

Still sounds like a bad valve guide or umbrella seal.

texasred · August 22nd, 2007, 05:00 PM

Numbers are pretty good. I agree with $triker...sounds like bad valve guides or seals.

C.J.

July 26th, 2007, 05:59 PM	#1 (permalink)
77 oldsMAbrotha Toliver Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 24	BLUE SMOKE (long thread w/lotta detail) Hello again This is no smiling matter. 77 350 (99,000miles) is blowing blue smoke out the exhaust pipe while sitting at stoplights. I pulled all the plugs and it looks like ONLY the #1 plug is covered in oil. B4 i had the intake(RPM), carb(750 man.choke edel.), fuel pump, distributor cap, rotor, wires and of course plugs all replaced, compression was checked on all cylinders and was fine. "When doing compression check I was told to use oil can and squirt oil into each cylinder in spark plug 'hole'." SO I DID This was when the smoke problem all began!!! All the way to the shop it smoked. After I started for the first time from the shop it smoked constantly for 20 minutes and 10 miles now only smokes when driving and then come to a stop, NOT when it's in motion or when started up and allowed to idle. I replaced all the plugs ran fine for a couple of drives, and now back to smoking, again ONLY #1 plug covered in oil. Could it be the oil burning off in that cylinder, OR could this be a more serious problem? Where should I go from here?

July 26th, 2007, 06:25 PM	#2 (permalink)
Redog Alero Chapter Secretary Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Newtown, PA Posts: 1,145	Blue smoke, severe engine ware Rebuild or get rid of, sorry __________________ Me 2000 Alero running 14's 2005 Nissan Altima (her's) 1967 Olds 330 motor sitting on a stand 1985 Delta 88 w/1968 350 rocket ( MURDERED )

July 28th, 2007, 02:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 2,696	Drain some oil out and run a bunch of motor flush in it. Idle it for 10 minutes, and change the oil. Then get a can of B12 chem tool, pour it in a dog bowl, & pull out your pcv valve leaving it attached to the hose. Have a buddy keep the rpms up on the motor while you let the pcv suck up the chemtool out of the dog bowl. That should yield a good amount of smoke, but your motor will be nice and clean if you have to rebuild. One time My kid brother topped off to the filler cap, SAE 30 in the lawnmower and it was smoking blue like CRAZY. It was ruined after that. It would only run with the oil fill cap off for some reason, and it's no good mowing the lawn with oil and grass/dirt spattering everywhere. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand.

July 28th, 2007, 06:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
American Lead 2Blue 55 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Posts: 455	I'm thinking it could bad a bad valve seat, I doubt it would be bad rings/walls on just one cylinder... What do you guys think? I also think that it is not a good idea to put anything in your oil, I am told that this is instant knock for older cars. I am not sure and I wouldn't recommend it without a second opnion, But is is it possible to run a hotter plg in cyl #1? What you guys say? __________________ Classic cars are my drug of choice

July 29th, 2007, 09:27 AM	#5 (permalink)
77 oldsMAbrotha Toliver Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 24	keep the replys comming thanks for all the input and suggestions. If it turns out that I have to rebuild, then where should I begin? What steps should be taken to ensure the process will be worth the money spent... to own a 350hp '77 block that will be driven daily with an iron foot.

July 29th, 2007, 10:01 AM	#6 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	You said the compression check was "fine". What was the lowest-highest? Redo the compression check WITHOUT the oil can trick and post results. C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

July 29th, 2007, 05:03 PM	#8 (permalink)
$tryker Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Belle River Ontario Posts: 47	You didn't state the results of the compression test. If we are to assume they are within accepted standards, I would have to guess a badly worn intake guide or valve seals. Then only the top half would have to come off for rebuilding.

July 30th, 2007, 05:20 AM	#9 (permalink)
Jim's rare 80 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 209	Hi. Did you put in the oil before the compression test? The procedure is, 1, do a test to all 8 cylinders, no oil. record readings. 2, add a bit of oil to each cylinder, and do the test again. The oil is added to the second test so you can test valve compression. Adding oil will bring up compression if your valve seals are ok. Do a dry test, just to be sure, but my guess is a valve seal job, not a rebuild. Let us know. jim. __________________

August 1st, 2007, 06:15 PM	#10 (permalink)
77 oldsMAbrotha Toliver Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 24	In VA, till friday and planning pulling the {3A}heads beginning SAT morning... Tested all cylinders once, and pressure rose and held steady in all cylinders. Tested Again, using oil, and pressure rose and held steady in all cylinders. Pressure fluctuated + 0 to +7(Hg measurement) AT most as motor was cranked, but it rose and held steady. SOMEONE lost the numbers, but pressure rose +10( ) total most between highest and lowest reading cylinders. I 've seen that happening when testing the not failing, but the lesser performing valves of the same quality in mechanical fuel pumps. ??...to the machine shop for a cylinder head updo? Gonna let everyone know the deal soon as I get at it

August 8th, 2007, 04:59 PM	#11 (permalink)
77 oldsMAbrotha Toliver Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 24	#12 3 5 7 8; 155 And #4 6; 170 No Oil

August 21st, 2007, 07:28 PM	#12 (permalink)
$tryker Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Belle River Ontario Posts: 47	When you preformed the compression test, did you utilize a battery charger? If not, then the last few runs will be lower. Still sounds like a bad valve guide or umbrella seal.

August 22nd, 2007, 05:00 PM	#13 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	Numbers are pretty good. I agree with $triker...sounds like bad valve guides or seals. C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

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