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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 78
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LOCKTITE: Friend or Foe?
Hey Olds Buddies!
I've got a '72 Cutlass S with matching stock 350 w/ a 2bbl. I'm new to looking at/diagnosing/working on engines, but I'm very interested in learning. I had an '87 Cutlass with a 307 for a couple years, but that was harder to play with because of all the emissions stuff in the way. Over the past couple months as I've been poking around in the engine compartment, I've been noticing some random loose or missing bolts. I figure this is a product of driving vibrations mixed with undertightened/non-LOCKTITE-d bolts mixed with shop mechanics not replacing all of the bolts after working on the car mixed with age. Most of the loose bolts so far have been associated with accessories (for example: Where the alternator bracket connects to the block; In a couple places on the A/C bracket.) However, I found a bolt last night that had wriggled itself loose (almost to the point of falling out) where the exhaust manifold connects to the block (this was a rough and rusty one). Is there a hard and fast rule about using LOCKTITE on bolt threads? I've always used it when redoing the valve cover gaskets...but I wasn't sure about using it on the exhaust manifold. Also, should I make a habit of replacing these rough and rusty exhaust manifold bolts (they match the manifold in color and crust), or should I just leave them alone until they cause a problem or I decide to upgrade? Does anyone sell a bolt/fasteners kit or that that kind of thing? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks friends. Russ |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tom Servo's Stunt Double
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 824
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I like to put a bit of LocTite on everything. Check the shelves at your local McAuto Parts store. There's several different LocTite applications for high heat and such.
Replace those rusty exhaust bolts. The reason they worked loose is the thread surface decreases as they rust in the repeated heat/cool cycles. Tightening crappy bolts leaves you with a crappy bolt still. And put LocTite on the new bolts! ![]() I'm also a fan of torque wrenches. C.J.
__________________
Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!" ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 78
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Thanks for the reply, C.J.
Do you know where I can find the "specs" for the bolts so I get the right kind to replace them? Would those be in the service manual, or do I have to visually match them up at the parts store? Also, I've been meaning to get myself a torque wrench...thanks for the reminder! Would the service manual also have torque specs for certain applications? Like I said, I'm new to this stuff...especially doing it the 'right' way. I appreciate the input. Russ |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Tom Servo's Stunt Double
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 824
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Exhaust manifold is 25 ft/lbs, but it's high heat. The originals were zinc plated....and lasted 35 years! Try your local McAuto Parts store.
C.J.
__________________
Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!" ![]() |
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