Hooker Headers

spikey0922 · January 11th, 2003, 10:07 PM

Today I just finished installing hooker competition headers on my 71 olds cutlass. It was quite a hasle today as it took from 9am-6pm to do this. I had to heat the block to get the bolts out, move the tranny cooling lines to get the headers through,take out the oil filter housing ,and get those headers up there. Then the drivers side I had to shave a bolt down to get the header to bolt on the head which was succesful however one tube is touching the frame and that bolt...

I was wondering if there are any good modifications that are not too expensive I could consider doing to prevent the headers from melting the wires, or even the brake lines that are about 1 inch from one of the tubes...I am worried about the headers getting so hot that it could damage some of the parts near them...Any suggestions?

Also I had a scare today as I was dumb to not put a new gasket in on the oil filter housing...I went of the garage to get ready for a nice test drive after everything was completed,then smoke everywhere...Oil was squirting rappidly out of the housing all over the headers which gave me a scare....Im hoping I could get some tips from you guys to see what I should consider in doing after having the headers installed to be safe.

Thanks alot!

[ January 12, 2003: Message edited by: spikey0922 ]</p>

Edsdelta · January 12th, 2003, 12:31 AM

Good point. You need to look into getting some heat shielding tape. (edelbrock and local car shops should have this).. It wraps around the header tubes and will prevent nearby wiring or tubing from heating up and melting. Personally, I would add a steal-braded lining over the break lines. You cant take the cheap way out with your break system, for obvious reasons.

January 11th, 2003, 10:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
spikey0922 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Posts: 1	Today I just finished installing hooker competition headers on my 71 olds cutlass. It was quite a hasle today as it took from 9am-6pm to do this. I had to heat the block to get the bolts out, move the tranny cooling lines to get the headers through,take out the oil filter housing ,and get those headers up there. Then the drivers side I had to shave a bolt down to get the header to bolt on the head which was succesful however one tube is touching the frame and that bolt... I was wondering if there are any good modifications that are not too expensive I could consider doing to prevent the headers from melting the wires, or even the brake lines that are about 1 inch from one of the tubes...I am worried about the headers getting so hot that it could damage some of the parts near them...Any suggestions? Also I had a scare today as I was dumb to not put a new gasket in on the oil filter housing...I went of the garage to get ready for a nice test drive after everything was completed,then smoke everywhere...Oil was squirting rappidly out of the housing all over the headers which gave me a scare....Im hoping I could get some tips from you guys to see what I should consider in doing after having the headers installed to be safe. Thanks alot! [ January 12, 2003: Message edited by: spikey0922 ]</p> __________________ Jon Kingsbury 71 Olds Cutlass 'S' 350 V8

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Oil Filter Conversion To Spin On	J'ville	Eighty-Eight	2	July 10th, 2009 04:18 PM
72 Cutlass with an oil problem	cutlassdriver61	Small Blocks	4	January 5th, 2008 05:04 PM
aftermarket parts	chorton	Cutlass	3	May 15th, 2006 10:26 AM
Tech and "How I did it" posts	Oldsguy	Other	2	April 24th, 2006 08:43 AM

January 12th, 2003, 12:31 AM	#2 (permalink)
Edsdelta The Charter Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Maine, USA Posts: 90	Good point. You need to look into getting some heat shielding tape. (edelbrock and local car shops should have this).. It wraps around the header tubes and will prevent nearby wiring or tubing from heating up and melting. Personally, I would add a steal-braded lining over the break lines. You cant take the cheap way out with your break system, for obvious reasons.