does anyone know what the timing should be set at i think its retarted runs bad

 

Holy smokes, depending on what 350 you have it could be 12 degrees BTDC for an L32 at, and L77 at, or 20 degrees BTDC for L34 excp. Calif. and your rear axle ratio comes into it too...what do you have??

 

Welcome aboard

Tell us a little about your car and engine.

 

i have a 1980 Chevy C10 with a 350 olds engine in it i only no the year because i looked up the heads code 411929 thats the only way i identifyed it as a 76. it runs good until the secondarys open so it runs good on the mains 4-barrel q-jet

 

I dont know what car its out of ?

 

Well in that case you might as well start with 12 degrees and go up from there to 20 and see what happens

 

ill try it and also when i hit 45 mph she sputters when the pettle is to the floor feels like no power

 

i think i might have a 403 it says 403 on the timing chain cover

 

 

so, are you going to change your user name then?

Just kidding. You may simply need a good all around tune up. Does it sputter after a slow acceleration up to 45 mph or does it sputter when you "tromp on it" to accelerate quickly? Doe is sputter if you "tromp on it" in lower gear as if you were trying to do a burn out? Do this: with the engine turned of and cool take the air cleaner element out and remove the air cleaner housing. Look down into the primaries (wear safety goggles or glasses) and give the linkage a quick pull back, you should see two streams of fuel spurt into the primaries, one for each primary. Also inspect the accelerator pump area on the carb looking specifically for a wet look near the top gasket as if fuel has leaked/seeped there. This may indicate a need for a good carburetor rebuild if you find any abnormalities. If not, you may have to look further into your vacuum advance and timing setup.

 

when i tromp on it it sputters it sputters alot and the gas also leaks out the gasket but this is a new carb that i rebuilt and u can smell the gas after it has been driven and then parked and also my distributer cap moves to easy i can turn it with one hand when i first fire it up and let it warm up it has power but then i think its getting to much gas and fludding its self out and it also runs better without an air cleaner becausr then it gets more air but i keep the air cleaner on.

 

You distributor should not move at all. The bolt clamping the distributor is place is loose thats why you timing is changing all of the time. Set the timing and tighten the bolt so the distributor does not move. I am not a carb expert so I cannot help with that problem except to say it should not be leaking, sounds like a faulty rebuild to me.

 

ill try it