Hey guys i just recently got my 67 442, with original everything..... I think.
Im 58 now, when i was 18 i bought a used 67 owned by a female school teacher. It looked like it just came off the show room floor, she kept it in beautiful condition. Anyway it was a factory 4spd, and in my opinion it ran like a scalded dog! Very fast for a stock BIG car. So.... I really just want to build this motor mostly stock, some upgrade is ok but im not building a race car just a nice cruiser. I have not actually started on the car yet but will soon. I will have the motor tanked and magnafluxed. If i need to bore it ill just bore enough to clean the cylinders. I havnt decided on a cam, roller is possible but not necessary. I have a roller in my corvette "383" and i like it!!!
No break in necessary as i understand it with roller cams. I will definately have it balanced as i have done with all the motors for my Vette over the years, i havnt blown one yet. I think balancing is the best thing to do for a motors reliability, and its fairly cheap.
So anyway im looking for suggestions on the build from stock to a little more power and still be reliable.

 

I just brought home my fresh-built E block and looking forward to installing it soon. It cleaned up on .030 bore. Biggest problem was cam selection...it's a 39 degree block and my mild Comp cam had to be reground. I hope my builder knew what he was doing! Good luck!

 

I also recently built a "stock" E block.... pretty much stock everything but with the W30 cam specs for 1967 cam. My rear is a 390.... For easy of assembly and less hassle I would recommend a stock build with a little hotter than stock cam. I believe if you need more power it should come from the heads. A little porting will give you a little more HP.

 

All E blocks have the late 39 deg angle which is commonly available in aftermarket cams. I recommend forged pistons since cast ones can grenade too easily. Either spend the money to get your reds rebuilt, or better, get aftermarket rods for similar money (Rocket racing has them).

 

Hydraulic roller is the way to go , Morels I would recommend. Double check lifter bore clearance.

 

One thing is i have an automatic tranny, factory air, pwr brakes. So i cannot have too much cam i know. Maybe a little more than stock if possible.

 

Not true, change the converter even to something conservative in the 2200 range, and you'll be fine with a cam in the high 220 to low 230 range.

 

If your stock pistons are in good shape I'd be interested in buying them.... good luck and keep it mild... there's plenty of zip from those engines.

 

You can use '68 to 72 Olds 350 pistons if you are looking for forged pistons for the '65 to '67 "E" blocks.
Any late model cam will work. "CutlassEFI" can set you up. Be sure to use a Cloyes timing set. They have been the most accurate I have used. But be sure to degree it in to make sure.

Gene

 

Hey thanks for the help guys, i plan to start soon but i need to finish painting my Honda Accord first so i can drive it, my truck just dosent get very good milage. The engine will come out first and ill disassemble it to see what is what. Does cutlasssfi grind cams? He sounds pretty sharp on the subject, as do so many others here. This is a great place i have found for info and support. I really appreciate any advise. Actually the first engine i ever rebuilt 40 years ago was an E block. It had some spun mains. I put the original pistons back in as it was a low milage motor, the only thing i changed was the cam. I put in a Crane Fireball cam. LOL 3/4 RACE CAM as they called it. hahaha Anyway to my surprise it started the first crank and ran great. Sure wish i still had that car.
What about oil restrictors? There seem to be several different types, do i need them? if so which ones. Or oil restricted pushrods and where do you get these ?

Thanks
Steve

 

Krooser when i get to that point, if i get different pistons i will gladly sell you the pistons if there in good shape. Ill let you know when that happens

Thanks
Steve

 

thanks...