front coil springs

john suder · October 31st, 2009, 07:30 PM

could some one tell me how to get the springs compressed. I have tried to use two diffrent types of spring compressors. With out doing anny good. If sombody could help me I would be very thankfull.

jensenracing77 · October 31st, 2009, 09:10 PM

i think the book showed a long bolt going down through the top shock hole in the frame down to a large washer under the lower A arm and screwed the A arm up till it compressed the spring enough to get the A arm bolts in. i don't know what size bolt it is or how long it is.

MX442 · October 31st, 2009, 09:45 PM

I've used an internal spring compressor before with no problems.

I pulled out a set yesterday by just using a jack. I dropped a 3/8" rod of all thread through the shock hole all the way to the floor, just in case. I left the spindle attached to the upper arm, and released the lower arm, and lowered the jack. With the end link and the spindle still there, I figured it would hold the spring back if it came out. When it came out, the rod did its job of holding it in place. It is much easier to use an internal compressor to put them back in.

john suder · November 1st, 2009, 05:39 AM

My car is a 1969 Cutlass S. The shock can not be removed without taking off the spring. I dont see anny way of getting it out ove the way. So that I can use an inside spring compresser.

Nilsson · November 1st, 2009, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john suder

My car is a 1969 Cutlass S. The shock can not be removed without taking off the spring. I dont see anny way of getting it out ove the way. So that I can use an inside spring compresser.

You need to get a chassis service service manual before you proceed any further. The shocks are simple to remove the springs are a different story. Again get a manual before you get yourself hurt.

Just my .02 take it for what it's worth.

jensenracing77 · November 1st, 2009, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nilsson

You need to get a chassis service service manual before you proceed any further. The shocks are simple to remove the springs are a different story. Again get a manual before you get yourself hurt.

Just my .02 take it for what it's worth.

X2. you must be careful with these springs. i seen one go through a garage door. well i seen it an hour after it happened. after they told me what they did i could have warned them if i were there.

MX442 · November 1st, 2009, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john suder

My car is a 1969 Cutlass S. The shock can not be removed without taking off the spring. I dont see anny way of getting it out ove the way. So that I can use an inside spring compresser.

It wasn't converted to coil-overs, was it?

Otherwise, you have to remove the shocks first. Later I can scan the service manual showing how they do it, but you'll need the special service tool. I don't know where to find one. I've tried putting them in this way, and I could never get the lower a-arm bolted back in.

The ones I did Friday wouldn't work that way either because the headers are blocking the a-arm bolts from coming out. They had to be done from the spindle side.

john suder · November 1st, 2009, 09:11 AM

I am going to take the lower a arm to work. And open one end of the hole .125th. T his should allow me to take the shock in and out from the bottom. This shoule allow me to use the inner compresser. Dont know but I am going to try it.

joe_padavano · November 1st, 2009, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john suder

My car is a 1969 Cutlass S. The shock can not be removed without taking off the spring. I dont see anny way of getting it out ove the way. So that I can use an inside spring compresser.

The shock MUST be removed first. I suspect you've tried to remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the shock to the lower control arm and they just spin, right? This is common - the sheet metal clip nuts will snap if the bolt is rusted to the nut. Use either a torch or a cutoff wheel to remove the bolts, then get new bolts and clip nuts. With the shock out of the way, the internal compressor works fine.

john suder · November 1st, 2009, 12:34 PM

The hole in the bottom of the aframe is 1.725. And the shock is 1.850 o.d. The shock will not come out the bottom of the aframe. Al of the bolts are off. I have all ready ground off the bolts.

Bluevista · November 1st, 2009, 06:09 PM

I know the '64-'67 GTO had a smaller hole in the lower control arm for shock installation.
Replaced at some point with the older style ones?

It sounds like opening up that hole is the easiest and best solution.

If you're taking the control arm to work to enlarge the hole does that mean the springs aren't in the car now?

x2 on the internal spring compressor.

joe_padavano · November 2nd, 2009, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john suder

The hole in the bottom of the aframe is 1.725. And the shock is 1.850 o.d. The shock will not come out the bottom of the aframe. Al of the bolts are off. I have all ready ground off the bolts.

Well, I have no idea how that was put together. It's definitely not stock.

October 31st, 2009, 07:30 PM	#1 (permalink)
john suder Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 17	front coil springs could some one tell me how to get the springs compressed. I have tried to use two diffrent types of spring compressors. With out doing anny good. If sombody could help me I would be very thankfull.

October 31st, 2009, 09:10 PM	#2 (permalink)
jensenracing77 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: brazil indiana Posts: 1,022	i think the book showed a long bolt going down through the top shock hole in the frame down to a large washer under the lower A arm and screwed the A arm up till it compressed the spring enough to get the A arm bolts in. i don't know what size bolt it is or how long it is. __________________ 70 Rallye 350 72 Cutlass 00 Silhouette 90 Toronado Trofeo

October 31st, 2009, 09:45 PM	#3 (permalink)
MX442 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: ID Posts: 51	I've used an internal spring compressor before with no problems. I pulled out a set yesterday by just using a jack. I dropped a 3/8" rod of all thread through the shock hole all the way to the floor, just in case. I left the spindle attached to the upper arm, and released the lower arm, and lowered the jack. With the end link and the spindle still there, I figured it would hold the spring back if it came out. When it came out, the rod did its job of holding it in place. It is much easier to use an internal compressor to put them back in. __________________

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November 1st, 2009, 05:39 AM	#4 (permalink)
john suder Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 17	My car is a 1969 Cutlass S. The shock can not be removed without taking off the spring. I dont see anny way of getting it out ove the way. So that I can use an inside spring compresser.

November 1st, 2009, 09:11 AM	#8 (permalink)
john suder Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 17	I am going to take the lower a arm to work. And open one end of the hole .125th. T his should allow me to take the shock in and out from the bottom. This shoule allow me to use the inner compresser. Dont know but I am going to try it.

November 1st, 2009, 12:34 PM	#10 (permalink)
john suder Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 17	The hole in the bottom of the aframe is 1.725. And the shock is 1.850 o.d. The shock will not come out the bottom of the aframe. Al of the bolts are off. I have all ready ground off the bolts.

November 1st, 2009, 06:09 PM	#11 (permalink)
Bluevista Cruisin' the Vistas Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Northeast Ohio Posts: 1,720	I know the '64-'67 GTO had a smaller hole in the lower control arm for shock installation. Replaced at some point with the older style ones? It sounds like opening up that hole is the easiest and best solution. If you're taking the control arm to work to enlarge the hole does that mean the springs aren't in the car now? x2 on the internal spring compressor.