Splitting Ball Joints

DAN76 · March 29th, 2009, 01:12 PM

To say I had trouble splitting my ball joints would be an understatement!
I tried fork splitters, threaded pullers, crowbars, mallets, 2x4 wooden beam... and the damn thing just wouldn't shift.

I spent about 4 hours bashing and prizing until eventually i decided to angle grind my puller down so it would apply pressure from a different angle, and hey presto she popped!

I was just wondering if you guys had any tips how to get these joints apart easily?

The trouble we have over here is that modern Euro cars all use smaller ball joints and the tools on sale here are all made for that purpose. I haven't seen anything that would do the job straight off the shelf.

jensenracing77 · March 29th, 2009, 01:26 PM

i have a set of fork tools for an air hammer. it workes very well.

2blu442 · March 29th, 2009, 01:52 PM

A problem I ran into once was that the pickle fork I had was the wrong size! Prior to that I thought they were all the same. I have a friend who likes to smack the side of the spindle right next to the ball joint with a big hammer, and the shock will pop the joint. I've done this and yes it works but sometimes it leaves marks in the side of the spindle. Make sure there is some tension on the spring, if your using a compressor don't tighten it all the way so the spring is also exerting some pressure on it. I've removed them by just jacking up the lower A-arm and not using the spring compressor, not as safe but I've done it. Even then if I have the spring compressed too much it's hard to tell when the ball joint actually pops. John

Run to Rund · March 29th, 2009, 05:20 PM

Jack the car up under the frame. Remove the cotter pin, and back off the castellated nut 1/2 to 1 turn. Whack on the arm right next to where the ball joint stud goes through it. Several good whacks should be enough, using a 2 to 3 pound short-handled hammer. The spring tension helps pop it apart and you will hear the "chong" when the arm hits the nut.

Lady72nRob71 · March 29th, 2009, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

Jack the car up under the frame. Remove the cotter pin, and back off the castellated nut 1/2 to 1 turn. Whack on the arm right next to where the ball joint stud goes through it. Several good whacks should be enough, using a 2 to 3 pound short-handled hammer. The spring tension helps pop it apart and you will hear the "chong" when the arm hits the nut.

Thats the way I do it.

- Pickle fork thingie BAD - hammer GOOD!!

68ragtop · March 30th, 2009, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71

Thats the way I do it.

- Pickle fork thingie BAD - hammer GOOD!!

Ditto. In the cases where I had a fork that was a little too big (wedges on the sides of the fork don't get a good purchase on the balljoint), the secret seemed to be to get the wedge on the bottom of the fork in the right position and tight to the balljoint. Then whale on it with a baby sledge! You will destroy the boot, but who cares at that point, right?

Lady72nRob71 · March 30th, 2009, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

Ditto. In the cases where I had a fork that was a little too big (wedges on the sides of the fork don't get a good purchase on the balljoint), the secret seemed to be to get the wedge on the bottom of the fork in the right position and tight to the balljoint. Then whale on it with a baby sledge! You will destroy the boot, but who cares at that point, right?

That happened to me on my old Ford 7 years ago. The fork was rented and was too big and went through the boot. The ball joint was to be replaced so I did not care. After beating the crap out of the fork and mushrooming the top severely, I was getting tired. I then gave the nut (on the stud) a good blow with "Big Bertha" and it popped out.

Repeated on the other side with same success. I was expecting the parts store to charge me for damaging their new fork, but they said "no problem - it is meant to be hammered on"! The neighbors probably loved hearing that at 10pm...

Yellowstatue · April 29th, 2009, 03:42 AM

I use an extra tall 1/2 inch nut, I think it is for joining threaded rod, about 2 inches long, with a 1/2 inch bolt in each end, of a length long enough to reach between the two studs and then loosen the stud nut 1/2 turn or so and then holding centre tall nut steady turn the appropriate bolt out of the tall nut pushing out the stud till it pops...and that is the only noise you hear unless you drop a wrench (spanner)...

March 29th, 2009, 01:12 PM	#1 (permalink)
DAN76 Englishman Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: London UK Posts: 184	Splitting Ball Joints To say I had trouble splitting my ball joints would be an understatement! I tried fork splitters, threaded pullers, crowbars, mallets, 2x4 wooden beam... and the damn thing just wouldn't shift. I spent about 4 hours bashing and prizing until eventually i decided to angle grind my puller down so it would apply pressure from a different angle, and hey presto she popped! I was just wondering if you guys had any tips how to get these joints apart easily? The trouble we have over here is that modern Euro cars all use smaller ball joints and the tools on sale here are all made for that purpose. I haven't seen anything that would do the job straight off the shelf. __________________ 1965 Delta 88 Hard Top

March 29th, 2009, 01:52 PM	#3 (permalink)
2blu442 Moderator Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Medford, Oregon Posts: 2,257	A problem I ran into once was that the pickle fork I had was the wrong size! Prior to that I thought they were all the same. I have a friend who likes to smack the side of the spindle right next to the ball joint with a big hammer, and the shock will pop the joint. I've done this and yes it works but sometimes it leaves marks in the side of the spindle. Make sure there is some tension on the spring, if your using a compressor don't tighten it all the way so the spring is also exerting some pressure on it. I've removed them by just jacking up the lower A-arm and not using the spring compressor, not as safe but I've done it. Even then if I have the spring compressed too much it's hard to tell when the ball joint actually pops. John __________________ 1964 Cutlass Factory 4spd 1965 442 4spd 1967 442 Auto 1967 Cutlass Convertible 1967 Cutlass four door daily driver 1968 442 Auto 1969 442 W30 Auto 1970 442 4spd 1971 Cutlass Flat Top Wagon 1973 Che*vy 3/4 Ton 454/TH400 Tow Vehicle Only the tow vehicle is finished!

April 29th, 2009, 03:42 AM	#8 (permalink)
Yellowstatue Certified Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Too close to Toronto!! Posts: 567	Much more quiet I use an extra tall 1/2 inch nut, I think it is for joining threaded rod, about 2 inches long, with a 1/2 inch bolt in each end, of a length long enough to reach between the two studs and then loosen the stud nut 1/2 turn or so and then holding centre tall nut steady turn the appropriate bolt out of the tall nut pushing out the stud till it pops...and that is the only noise you hear unless you drop a wrench (spanner)... __________________ '57 S88 HC et al; '68 442 M20; '68 442 M21; '68 W30; '68 Vista et al; '80 -'84 Regency et al; '96,'98.'99 Aurora..Ignition ON

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Ball Joints	Bunser	Chassis/Body/Frame	0	April 20th, 2008 08:20 AM
Ball joints	projectheaven	Cutlass	5	February 19th, 2008 09:13 PM
upper ball joints	65 starfire	Chassis/Body/Frame	1	January 29th, 2008 12:06 PM
ball joints	65 starfire	Parts Wanted	3	January 9th, 2008 10:41 AM
69 delta ball joints ,center link and idler arm	<al>	Chassis/Body/Frame	2	June 8th, 2004 02:18 PM

March 29th, 2009, 05:20 PM	#4 (permalink)
Run to Rund Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 339	Jack the car up under the frame. Remove the cotter pin, and back off the castellated nut 1/2 to 1 turn. Whack on the arm right next to where the ball joint stud goes through it. Several good whacks should be enough, using a 2 to 3 pound short-handled hammer. The spring tension helps pop it apart and you will hear the "chong" when the arm hits the nut.