impact wrench recommend?

[68Tom]

As I'm going to be disassembling much of my car coming up, I figured it's probably a good idea to get an impact wrench.

Any recommendations? Are the cordless ones powerful enough to get the job done? From what I've seen it seems like they can get pretty darn expensive.

I've never owned one, so I'm literally looking at these at stage 1.

How's something like this?
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...10000003+90401

Thanks.

[Redog]

Should be good, but I would suggest an air socket wrench too.

Sometime Home Depot and Lowes has a kit on Clearance. My buddy got a air tank kit with air socket and impact gun and a bunch of other little thingys for $250, orgianlly $500

I used both an Impact and Air Scoket to put my Delta together, the air socket wrench gets in tight spaces better and the Impact gun is better for the cranck pulley

[Danny Wiseley]

If you have no air compressor, the electric impact wrench looks good. But. . . compressed air is about the handiest tool in my shop. An air-powered wrench will give you a lot more power per dollar spent than the electric ones.

[citcapp]

I agree with the air, and with so many people losing thier jobs of late because of the economy don't foget the loan and hock shops they are going to have a over load of this stuff in their enventory soon. They will tell you no problem I can keep this stuff forever until the prices come back up. Don't believe it, Check retail prices and offer then a starting price of 30% some will turn you down but others will call your name before you get to the door.

Good luck

[68Tom]

Hmm, well, I'm not sure I'm going to have air when I'm doing the disassembly. (it's a long story). I guess the biggest issue I can see with the electric is the size of the unit and fitting it in tight spots. I can't tell if it's really going to be a waste of money or worth it. I guess I was mainly getting it for the body mounts and the bushings I need to replace.

So is the torque good enough on an average electric wrench?

[citcapp]

I have an old 120 volt plug in electric that I have had for several years. It will undo some wheel lug nuts and thats about all. I don't know anything about the new battery operated impact wrenchs other then what I see on the car shows on the speed channel and they seem to never talk about how effective they are. Maybe someone else will read this thread that has more background with them. I am hooked on air and have several air tools, all used and bought through several sources

[68Tom]

Ah, so even the plug-in (doesn't have to be cordless) units aren't all that great, either? That's what I was wondering. Guess I'll just end up using old fashion tools and leverage. Just hoping I'm able to get the body mount bolts out ok, though.

[J-(Chicago)]

Don't use an impact on body mounts. Use a breaker bar, and a solid extension. Slide a piece of metal pipe over the end if you need more leverage. Soak the bolts in PB blaster everyday for a couple days before you try breaking them loose. Go nice and slow so they don't heat up too much and break off.

[68Tom]

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

Don't use an impact on body mounts. Use a breaker bar, and a solid extension. Slide a piece of metal pipe over the end if you need more leverage. Soak the bolts in PB blaster everyday for a couple days before you try breaking them loose. Go nice and slow so they don't heat up too much and break off.

Thanks for the advice. A breaker bar I DO have.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

Don't use an impact on body mounts. Use a breaker bar, and a solid extension. Slide a piece of metal pipe over the end if you need more leverage. Soak the bolts in PB blaster everyday for a couple days before you try breaking them loose. Go nice and slow so they don't heat up too much and break off.

My experience is exactly the opposite. On my 66, I started on the body mounts by using the breaker bar and immediately spun the first cage nut. I used the impact on all the rest and they all came out with no problems. I've also found this to be the case in other similar situations. The constant vibration from the impact wrench seems to keep the rusty bolt moving, whereas the unidirectional force from the breaker bar seems to increase the chances that the bolt will sieze and snap something else.

[citcapp]

68Tom,

Great idea, the breaker bar, low or no cost.

Sometimes I don't catch the obivous and just answer the question. Should have caught 68Tom's first request that he is trying to do this with limited espense for now and buy the tools for finishing the project later should have caught my attention

Thanks J-Chicago

[68Tom]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

My experience is exactly the opposite. On my 66, I started on the body mounts by using the breaker bar and immediately spun the first cage nut. I used the impact on all the rest and they all came out with no problems. I've also found this to be the case in other similar situations. The constant vibration from the impact wrench seems to keep the rusty bolt moving, whereas the unidirectional force from the breaker bar seems to increase the chances that the bolt will sieze and snap something else.

Did you use an air impact , or an electric, Joe? I'm just trying to get where that doesn't happen. I don't want to be cutting out my floor to get at the stripped nuts.

[Nailhead 88]

if your going with a 1/2 impact Ingersoll Rand is my choice

I was trying to get a 250 to 300 lbs of torque nut off once i borrowed a Sears 1/2 it wouldn't do it

I borrowed an IR and blew it off, then i bought one i think it was a # 242 model

[Eric Anderson]

We use a Milwaukee 28 volt cordless impact at work it will take lugnuts off a skid steer or backhoe without even trying they are a little pricey though.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by 68Tom

Did you use an air impact , or an electric, Joe? I'm just trying to get where that doesn't happen. I don't want to be cutting out my floor to get at the stripped nuts.

Mine is a Craftsman 1/2" drive pneumatic impact and it has worked very well for me. I have also just recently tried my friend's DeWalt electric and it also works fine.

[csstrux]

as long as you are planning on using impacts and such, a small compressor will work. If you are planning on doing a lot of body work the picture changes. I have seen small units for around two bills, they usually are on wheels which makes them handy. I would suggest the purchase as an in vestment in the future. they make life easier than I ever imagined. I got a large unit, but body work is a priority. the 20 gallon units will run a da sander and the like but need a lot of recovery time. You can get a half inch impact at your local menards and compressor with sockets for under $400. I don't know your financial situation. Times right now would dictate a second and third thought around here, but it would be a worth while investment if you can come up with the green.

[J-(Chicago)]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

My experience is exactly the opposite. On my 66, I started on the body mounts by using the breaker bar and immediately spun the first cage nut.

That's pretty interesting, Joe. I just turn them little by little. Sometimes a 1 or 2 minute break between turns of the bar, to let the bolt cool and stretch into it's various new positions on the way out.


What about exhaust manifolds? I found the impact worked best on those to keep the rust moving.

[74 Omega]

I've got these two, just this past weekend i was doing the front rotors on my 04 Chebby 2500HD.
I knew the cordless would not remove the bolts holding the caliper braket on but the corded on would not to it either(not even close). I had to resort to an old ratchet and a 3lbs sledge, (breaker bar would not fit), then moved to an 8lbs sledge, it got the bolt and did not even break the 1/2" Craftsman ratchet and if it did, I would have brought it back to Sears for a new one...
I'd be willing to bet a quality air impact gun would do it....(more upfront power)

i work at depot myself...im actually a vendor that sell fasteners...nuts and bolts ans specialty fasteners. stay away electric stuff go with the air stuff. you can get a decent air compressor for cheap these days. try to stay in the 30 gallon tank range otherwise the compressor will be constantly running and you will be waiting for more power. also stay from the husky stuff..very entry level. im a fan of the campbell hausfield stuff. i run a 60 gallon campbell hasufield compressor with 3 horsepower...way more than what the average home garage needs you can get a nice craftsman roll around 20 gallon that might do the trick and run on 110 current. craftsmen also makes some decent guns. you can get the cambpell hausfield or craftsman stuff in kits with a air socket which will be priceless. be sure to check out harbor frieght tools...just google search them. thayve got great stuff fo low prices. i think home depot still sells the campbell hausfield compressors as well

[geckonz08]

I agree , the air guns can be very handy with the exception of 'tight spots'.
I am unsure what socket prices are like in the U,S, of A but here they are very expensive and a good set will easily set you back more than the gun itself.
mike

[74omega]

I have the IR Titanium 2135TI. I have never run across anything that would not break loose, Although I do live in rust free California. I use my cheap Dayton most the time unless It will not get something loose, then I break out the IR. I run it off my 60Gal craftsman professional series 2 stage compressor.