help with my vin

[pampers]

hi all ,new to the olds world , have a 1970 442 455 w30 so iam told but its a clone would like to now what it is, the vin plate is 34467oz130618 , the heads are E , the intake is aluminum 406115 , and under the #1 spark plug on the block i found a number 130618 i think was hard ti make out . also idels like shit but has strog power can smoke the tires right off , thanks

[Lady72nRob71]

Pampers,

Welcome to the Land of Olds! Sounds like a great car, clone or not.
Got some pics??

Try this site to learn everything about your car:
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm

This one page should help you out a lot.
If we would just answer them for you it would take the fun out of it, right?

I was questioning my car when I got her and it took me 7 months to figure out she was a real clone. Of course, 1972 was a strange year. 1970 will be easier to figure out.

Read through all of the FAQ and you will also learn more about Olds, the 442, and its mechanics & history as well.

(And if you still need help, just let us know!)
Again, welcome aboard!

[442much]

Originally Posted by pampers

hi all ,new to the olds world , have a 1970 442 455 w30 so iam told but its a clone would like to now what it is, the vin plate is 34467oz130618 , the heads are E , the intake is aluminum 406115 , and under the #1 spark plug on the block i found a number 130618 i think was hard ti make out . also idels like shit but has strog power can smoke the tires right off , thanks

OK without me going to my books, the vin shows that the car is a 442 not a clone. 344 = 442 whereas 334 = Cutlass. The heads (if I recall) should be "F" for a W30. The non W30 had "E" heads, but again I'd have to look this up because I don't own a 442 of this year. Aluminum manifold is correct, again, I'd have to check the number. The 70 and 71-72 aluminum had different numbers.

Sounds like it could be a W30 clone , but it is a real 442 with that VIN. Also, it has the original engine. I'll check back after work and verify if no one else has added more. I think 67 may mean "convertible", but will have to check and get back to you.

Ken

[rocketraider]

Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71

Try this site to learn everything about your car:
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm


Read through all of the FAQ and you will also learn more about Olds, the 442, and its mechanics & history as well.

And take 90% of it with a grain of salt. There are notorious inaccuracies on that site.

3= Oldsmobile Division
44= 442
67= convertible
0= 1970 model year
Z= Fremont California assembly plant
130618= sequential VIN, and as you have discovered is a derivative on the original engine block

E heads are correct for all 1970 455s except W30 which carried F. If car is a true W30 (look for red fenderwells among other things) the F heads may have been changed out due to damage, or cannibalized.

The fact that the E's are still there makes me think the car is pretty honest. A deceptive clone-builder would have ground off part of the E to make F, though the casting #s are different between the two.

Someone has probably put the aluminum intake on.

Rough idle is characteristic of W30, but cam could have been changed in 38 years.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by pampers

hi all ,new to the olds world , have a 1970 442 455 w30 so iam told but its a clone would like to now what it is, the vin plate is 34467oz130618 , the heads are E , the intake is aluminum 406115 , and under the #1 spark plug on the block i found a number 130618 i think was hard ti make out . also idels like shit but has strog power can smoke the tires right off , thanks

It's a real 442 but not a real W30. The VIN decodes as follows:

3 = Oldsmobile division
44 = 442 model line
67 = convertible
0 = 1970 model year
Z = Fremont, CA build factory (all W30s were built in Lansing, MI)
130618 = sequential build number

The 406115 intake is correct for a 70 W30, but the E heads are not. The pad under the #1 plug should have a nine character VIN derivative. If the block is original for this car, that VIN derivative would be 30Z130618.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by rocketraider

3= Oldsmobile Division...

Beat me by three minutes...

[pampers]

thanks , its convertible, i will post a pic soon ,btw i was looking at the dist,and the numberis 1112085 i found on the site you sent me its from a 350ci, would that have a diffrent set timing and give me to much total advance cause it pings like a basterd, i have retarded the timing also ran two cans of carbon buster ,makes no difreance

[Allan R]

What grade of gas are you running? If it's not been driven for a while the gas that's in in could have deteriorated, and it will run hot and ping. These cars can run on 87, but really run better on at LEAST 91 octane. Also, you might want to check and see if your running a lean fuel mix. From my experience those are 2 of the first things I would check first. Not a mechanic, just letting you know what I've run into.

Allan R

[Wireman134]

Originally Posted by pampers

thanks , its convertible, i will post a pic soon ,btw i was looking at the dist,and the numberis 1112085 i found on the site you sent me its from a 350ci, would that have a diffrent set timing and give me to much total advance cause it pings like a basterd, i have retarded the timing also ran two cans of carbon buster ,makes no difreance

Hello, I am new to this forum. Just got back into these Oldsmobiles. I don't have a manual but I am certain the mechanical/vacuum advance is more just because that distributer is from a LC engine (1971), and they have more advance to make up for the loss in cylinder pressure. You may have to slow down the advance curve or adjust the vacuum advance amount and rate. This distributer info. was in the old Chilton's manuals of the day. Maybe put in a hotter cam to lower the cylinder pressure and also be closed to that W30 spec. I had a 72' 350 I built using 10.25:1 pistons with a fast advance curve (2800 engine rpm) that ran like a raped ape on 91-93 octane the cam was similar to the Performer for the 455 .472/.496 lift 280/290 duration. Cylinder pressure was around 180. I believe cylinder pressure over the 180's you will need a octane booster.

Tony