I previously posted a messege to get you guys thoughts on a 4spd conv. Well it has since made my head spin with ideas and anyone can see how one thing can lead to another and before long your 3 times your budget and time!
Anyways I have a 71 442 conv. that I would like to make a 4sp. (maybe 5spd.) What I really want is a 71 442 w-30 4spd. conv. loaded, but I have yet to hit the lotto and even if I did I would still have to find such a car. So I thought to myself, why not just restore a car and add the things I like so it can look and perform the way I want.
So this is my plan today:
Restore the car (paint, body, interior, engine)
Change from auto to 4spd.(or 5spd)
If I do this change I'll probably have to change my rear end because I have what I think is a 3:08 (maybe go to a 3:23 or 3:42)?
If I go with a muncie 4spd. should it be an M21 or M22?
I would like to change the cam to something that performs a bit better so if I went with a W-30 cam (328 degree) would I have enough vacuum to operate power brakes ?
What does vacuum have to do with AC operation (is it the idle?)
Can I assume with today's technology there is a cam that can both perform like I want it to and still make enough vacuum for whatever needs it?
Would the carb that is on the car now (original) work well with the 4or5spd. conv. or would it be wise to try to find a carb for a 4spd?
Then come the heads what is the difference between the G and H heads?
Could I make my G heads perform like H heads with some porting and machine work?
I assume the aluminum intake on w-30 cars did not flow better, Did it just decrease weight and dissapate heat better?
What other internal things in the motor were different between a 442 and w-30 was it just the matched or hand picked parts that made it more balanced?
I think that about covers it for now so if you guys have any good ideas as far as combos of trans, rear and cam etc... please chime in. Thanks in advance.

 

Depends on tire size and gear ratios in the trans. Do you want off-the-the line performance, gas mileage, or quiet cruising at highway speeds?

Go with the wide ratio trans.

No, which is why you couldn't get power brakes with this cam.

All of the flapper doors in the A/C and heater box are vacuum operated. This is not the case for the heater-only cars, in case you were wondering. Insufficient vacuum will cause these doors not to operate, resulting in things like cold air coming out the defroster vents when you wanted it out the dash vents.

To a point. What's your performance goal, what's your gearing, tire size, trans selection. The other option is to install an aftermarket electric vacuum pump to make up for the lack of engine vacuum.

You should set up the carb for the combination you have. Don't arbitrarily buy a "4spd" carb until you know what you need. The cam you select will have some impact on this decision.

About a thousand bucks. H heads are very rare.

Yes. Also, since you're already well down the slippery slope, consider aftermarket heads.

Correct. Again, unless you want to pay for a repro intake, consider an aftermarket one. If you're going for looks, grind off the Edelbrock name and sandblast to eliminate the grinding marks.

The big difference was the select-fit pistons. This is normal practice for a hand-rebuilt engine.

 

Thanks Joe, Good stuff.

 

Now THAT is a helpful post.

 

And the select-fit crank and main/rod bearings.

Norm