Thoughs on 350/455...

[csouth]

This is not a 350 vs. 455 question as much as feel for suggestions. My 72 has 350 w Edelbrock Performer Plus intake, Performer Cam, headers, dbl roller timing chain, Holley 670 carb. Miles are relatively highand could probe use a rebuild in 10-15k. Should I look to rebuild this or possible go with a 455? I'm asking because local guy has '68 455 long blocks for sale starting @$300. Rebuilding the 350 would require more time downtime. If I got the 455 now, I could store it or build as money allows. I could also put that money in the 350 build and come out spending less. I would need new headers or manifolds and an intake with the 455. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I know I could probably recoup some of the money after selling the 350.

[captjim]

What are your goals? I just put my 9 to 1 355 in our 71 Skylark, and it is perky and fun to drive, but no speed demon. It should run a low 14, as that engine pushed my G-body wagon to a high 13. The 455 will certainly be quicker, but more costly. Decent headers and intake are $600, plus the carb and the cost of the core. 72 350 heads also have hardened seats.

I would stick with the 350, spend some of the money you save on the heads, do a good valve job and a little street porting. Choose your pistons carefully to end up at 9.5 to 1 or so, get a cam in the 215 @ .050 and just under .500 lift, and you should have a fun little car to drive.

What gear is in it now?

[csouth]

Thanks for your feedback. I only want a strong street engine. Not sure about the gear now, its just TH350 and and I'm thinking original rear end. I still have a B&M shift kit yet to install too. . Excuse my ignorance here, I'm a newb..lol I'm assuming the cam specs your suggesting are on exhaust? The cam I installed is currently 214 @ .50 and .475 lift on valve. I guess I was trying to figure if it would be easier to get the 455 and build that since it would already be out of the car. But maybe the cost of the other necessary parts would not be worth it since I don't have a money tree?...lol

[captjim]

No, sorry, those are intake specs. You have the generic 204/214 in it now, right? You can re-use it, if you like. You probably have a high gear ratio, 2.41/2.56, somewhere in that neighborhood. Keep the cam, intake, carb, and headers, rebuild the engine and end up with a tad under 9 to 1. You will be able to run 87 if you want, no need to rev it very high. Build for torque and throttle response, make it a fun, reliable driver.

Yes, there will be more down time, but that gives you the chance to detail the engine compartment. Fresh paint, clean up the wiring, etc. On my engine replacements, I add a remote solenoid, it makes tracing wiring problems easier as the fusible links are easy to get to and you only have 12 volts going to the starter when cranking, reducing the chance of a fire.

[2blu442]

Chris, I'd sit down with pencil and paper to see what you could afford. If the car is your daily driver there is less down time building a different engine and installing it in your car when your ready. I'm partial to the big blocks, but I know other guys have gotten enough power from a small block. So I think it will depend on your finances and needs, plus your plans for the car. Either one would be a good option.

John

[csouth]

Captjim,
It's an Edelbrock cam with following spec:
Duration at 0.006" Lift:Intake: 280°Exhaust: 290°Duration at 0.050" Lift:Intake: 204°Exhaust: 214°Lift at Cam:Intake: 0.280"Exhaust: 0.295"Lift at Valve:Intake: 0.448"Exhaust: 0.472"
This is not my daily driver, but would love to keep it on 87oct. So I guess downtime isn't really a factor. Only It would have to be summer for the build because of the cold MI winter...LOL Freezing even in the garage...LOL
John,
Thanks for the input. The guy is like 15 min from my job, so I think I will check it out just for giggles. I just though that was a great price, for what I heard (1968) was a really good year for the 455. He has 4 all from that year.

[captjim]

Prices vary, geographically. I bought a complete 455 with a pair of "E" and "C" heads, a Torker, Accel distributor, headers and an engine stand for $150. I consider $300 good for a runner, $125 or so for a core. But again, prices vary.

[csouth]

Yeah, this is supposed to be a runner... Prices are getting better becuase of the economy too. In MI there are muscle cars everywhere, so he can probably move them easy.

[z11375ss]

One of the reasons I like my car so much is because it is a small block. I beat my buddy's 67 GTO (400/400) by a fender with it too. So I have that goin' for me.

[csouth]

Nice ride... I have no pref either bb or sb. I just want a strong street runner.

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by csouth

........ I just want a strong street runner.

There is no substitute for cubic inches.

Norm

[csouth]

So I went and checked them out, guy had 3 '68 455's and a '70 torno engine built up as a racer. 2 needing rebuilds. I think I'm going to put the money into my 350 for now.

[J-(Chicago)]

Originally Posted by csouth

So I went and checked them out, guy had 3 '68 455's and a '70 torno engine built up as a racer. 2 needing rebuilds. I think I'm going to put the money into my 350 for now.

I'd personally go for one of those 68' Toro motors.
You could probably drop it in and run a 14 flat. even with a 1 legger 2 series gear.

[#1CutlassSupreme]

If you're going to rebuild that 350 I would say just bore it .30 over, spend a few extra bucks on some flat top pistons, and put in a decent cam. Maybe while you're having the valves done, find a good shop to port the heads (That could be a little spendy, but worth it).

you'll get a few more CIs out of the engine (355) and raise the compression a bit. 72' has 64CC heads and decent valve size. The only thing they did to drop the compression was put in a dished piston.

Everyone says it's all about CIs, but then again there's something to be said for RPM range too. You'll be able to squeeze more out of your intake and cam with a short stroke vs. a long stroke motor.

IMHO of course.

[captjim]

Originally Posted by #1CutlassSupreme

If you're going to rebuild that 350 I would say just bore it .30 over, spend a few extra bucks on some flat top pistons, and put in a decent cam. Maybe while you're having the valves done, find a good shop to port the heads (That could be a little spendy, but worth it).

you'll get a few more CIs out of the engine (355) and raise the compression a bit. 72' has 64CC heads and decent valve size. The only thing they did to drop the compression was put in a dished piston.

Everyone says it's all about CIs, but then again there's something to be said for RPM range too. You'll be able to squeeze more out of your intake and cam with a short stroke vs. a long stroke motor.

IMHO of course.

Most 7a heads will CC out closer to 68, which has been discussed many times. Also, you gotta be careful, my Speed Pros sat .024 down, so with a .040 gasket and a 68 cc chamber, Cr is around 9.8 to 1, which is OK. But, if the chamber is smaller or the deck milled, cr can sneak up over 10, maybe too much for pump gas.

I like 350s, and again for his modest goals of a fun driver, it should be fine. But the 455 will make more power and torque, but will cost a little bit more.

[ent72olds]

Originally Posted by captjim

...

Yes, there will be more down time, but that gives you the chance to detail the engine compartment. Fresh paint, clean up the wiring, etc. On my engine replacements, I add a remote solenoid, it makes tracing wiring problems easier as the fusible links are easy to get to and you only have 12 volts going to the starter when cranking, reducing the chance of a fire.

Great point! Good advice, and a positive spin on his situation! Will make the wait when he drops the fresh motor in worth the while!