spot welders???

[Eddie Hansen]

Ok I am about to rekindle (hmmm welding involved maybe bad choice of words) ok restart my restoration, and I asked on a previous thread regarding type of welding

I need to replace some quarter panels, trunk extensions, and outerwheel well housings

I have decided to replace just the portions that are bad, I have located some year one quarters etc that i can drive to pick up etc.

from the advice given here I will butt weld ? (spelling) as opposed to the overlap method. ok so far so good

now when i attach the quarters to the wheel welds that is normally spot welded, many years ago I did buy a lenco spot 2 ( exactly like this one, as a matter of fact after reading this thread I had to run to the basement to make sure someone didn't grab it and throw on craigs list LOL) I paid considerably more ( bastids) but I have NOT wired the garage for it

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=27337

and I am not sure this is the best welder to use to combine say the lower quarterpanel and the trunk extension? I have also seen a cheapo pinch type spot welder
http://www.amazon.com/SPOT-WELDING-H.../dp/B000GQW0IS

which would be better? is there any point to wiring the garage for the lenco?


I will NOT be doing many more restorations LOL...

any thoughts?

and on another topic, my mig does NOT have shielding gas, it uses a flux type wire, is this ok, or should I get a gas shielded mig?

[gearheads78]

Don't have any experience with the spot welder but I would see what it takes to add gas to your mig. You will hate flux core especially on thin sheet metal. You want gas.

[Eddie Hansen]

my buddy has a mig capable of gas welding, and it can use thinner wire I'll see to borrow it, I know my resto won't be world class, I will do the best i can, as i said I reread your thread several times and it inspired me, but at times it does get overwhelming.. I know once I get started again I'll be ok, I will have the 455 motor rebuilt fairly stock, I'll wait to upgrade to 4 wheel discs, I'll leave the 3:08 posi and change the gear ratio later, see what it takes to have the 4 speed tranny gone through... I think I have also said I have done the frame and front end, and I have now made arrangements to get the quarters trunk extensions etc but as you have said it gets crazy where do you stop LOL... I have new body mounts and figure if I can fix the main body put it back on the frame I'll be extra ambitious to get her done...

[gearheads78]

Just look at is as you are going to eat an elephant. You have to take one bite at a time. Make the huge project a bunch of little projects. This will help you keep from getting overwelmed. If you need to make mini goals and write them down. Cross off each line item as it done. This will give a feeling of accomplishment as you go.

One thing in case you don't know you should have the body bolted to the frame and the suspension loaded before you cut off and weld on the new 1/4s.

[Eddie Hansen]

Originally Posted by gearheads78

Just look at is as you are going to eat an elephant. You have to take one bite at a time. Make the huge project a bunch of little projects. This will help you keep from getting overwelmed. If you need to make mini goals and write them down. Cross off each line item as it done. This will give a feeling of accomplishment as you go.

One thing in case you don't know you should have the body bolted to the frame and the suspension loaded before you cut off and weld on the new 1/4s.

good advice, regarding the body hmmmm I figured it would be easier to get at the welding off the frame, I am not replacing the entire quarters and the doors are still installed is this a "MUST" then I will need to reinstall the rearend, and I assume the suspension loaded means put the motor back in? it is on a wooden framework?

[gearheads78]

Originally Posted by Eddie Hansen

good advice, regarding the body hmmmm I figured it would be easier to get at the welding off the frame, I am not replacing the entire quarters and the doors are still installed is this a "MUST" then I will need to reinstall the rearend, and I assume the suspension loaded means put the motor back in? it is on a wooden framework?

No motor is fine. You just need to have it sitting on the suspension (at minimum the rear anyway) as opposed to jack stands under the frame.
Its not a must but I highly suggest it.

[ent72olds]

I have to agree with Richard, especially on a droptop car!

[Eddie Hansen]

Man I am glad I checked with you guys, I am actually ok with the welding, I suppose I can remount the body, then the rear, replace ( actually repair would be better term as i am only going to replace the rusted bits) the quarterpanels and outer wheel housings. ok I just need to change around some plans, I will clean up the rear etc, get the new rear springs ( replaced the front ones already) and remount the rear, I have already changed all the fuel and brake lines to stainless, and have new body mounts. I don't have to put everything back in the car right? I have the interior out as well, just so there is no flexing when I breach the quarter?

[csstrux]

I don't see why you would need to put it all back together or would want to. Depending on the damage, and areas of work you could get weld bee bee's all over the upholstery. just get the body "preloaded" or sitting approximately how it will on the road when complete. I would think that stands placed directly in the spring perches would give a similar effect as the car sitting on its wheels, but am not certain on that. the idea is to get your lines to match the existing body as closely as possible. when a car is jacked up, or sitting on stands, depending on placement of the stands you will pull the ends down or push them up. ideally you want your stands as close to the suspension as possible ie under the A arms up front, or the axle in back. in doing so the frame is carrying aproximately the same weight in the same place as if it were at "rest" Body is not distorted. hopefully This helps