#8 Heads Are Done Take a Look

[johnfharding]

Hey guys I have got my completed heads back from the machine shop I thought you might like to see some pics. I didn't get any pics of the bowls.

I did some port matching. I have never done anything like this before so please be kind. I tried to get things pretty close but doing this by hand and being consistent and accurate takes huge amounts of time. Hence why this costs so much to get done professionally.

[johnfharding]

Here is some more

[johnfharding]

Well I might get flamed good for my choice of paint. But I couldn't resist. Between the diehards and my wife I decided to stay with the Rocket motor. I had to quench my hot rod thirst by at least making her look like an aluminum headed, aluminum intake hot rod. I couldn't help it. My wife wasn't real thrilled but I like the way it looks. Anyway. Its still a Rocket regardless.

[Oldsguy]

Looks just fine to me. I think you chose well.

[johnfharding]

I guess I'm going to go through the engine too. I have had too many people tell me it will probably start using oil unless I have it at least re ringed and new bearing for safety sake.

Hope to have her running by May.

[hamm36]

Good call on redoing the block, also. Do it right the first time-no cutting coroners. Find a good shop for the hard parts, balancing rods and pistons, check and turn/polish crank, etc... You will not regret it.

[johnfharding]

I was wondering if I should have them do the balancing and all, also I was thinking I should use the Moly rings instead of the Cast. I hear they last longer and they don't cost much more from the pricing I have done.

Do you know if there are any cheaper pistons that would retrofit to this engine ,, I think pistons are around 45 dollars a piece for cast pistons? I will keep you guys updated.

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by johnfharding

I was wondering if I should have them do the balancing ........

Factory balance was good enough for the masses. Custom balance is part of any quality engine rebuild.

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ Moly rings instead of the Cast ........

Rule of thumb: Cast rings can be used, regardless of the cylinder wall finish. Makes them ideal for use in a low cost, production setting, which is the reason the factory used them. Also why they are the best choice if the cylinders will not be re bored.

With moly rings, the cylinders must be round and the final hone compatible, which is where the extra expense comes in.

Whether moly will last longer, under "normal" use, is debatable but it is more durable in performance/higher RPM conditions.

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ I think pistons are around 45 dollars a piece for cast pistons ........

Egge Machine, here in Santa Fe springs, manufactures the correct replacement piston, for your application. It sells for about $40.

You can take "shortcuts" to save a few bucks, or you can do it right.

Norm

[johnfharding]

I am tempted to go ahead and have it bored just because I'm afraid just honing it and removing the ridge may not result in the durability I want. Where I live and will be driving, its pretty much all highway. 65 to 75 miles per hour depending but essentially speeds are going to be 60 to 70 no matter where we are going. While this isn't racing it should be a higher rpm than just hopping over to the Sonic on Cruise night. With the ring ridge that I can easily feel with my finger nail I seriously doubt just a ring job will work. Thats why I mentioned the moly rings as if I go to the expense to have it rebored and new pistons, I would think this would be the optimal set up. I would really like to have as much power out of the engine as possible with in a reasonable price. I have found very little in the way of camshafts outside of Egge doing a 3/4 race grind. I just would like to know what the specs are for that as I don't want to give up a ton of low end since this car isn't light. Engine wise I am looking at getting new rocker arms and shafts as my rocker arms all have very visible wear and so forth. The 3/4 race regrind on my cam , also raises questions on whether or not my valve train will be with in specs as I know they have to remove material from the base circle. I'm seriously leaning towards a full rebuild. What are your suggestions for the lower end and camshaft /rockers. What in your experience has produced the best results? I have seen stock cam's for around 250? Thanks

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ I have found very little in the way of camshafts ........

Contact Joe Panek at (310) 325-8844. I understand he can make a new master for any grind you choose. If so, your local grinder can use it to put that profile on your core.

Or for a longershot, you can try Chet Herbert at (714)289-0178. I used one of his regrinds (270° advertised) in my last 394.

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ 3/4 race grind. I just would like to know what the specs are for that ........

As far as I know, ¾ race was the generic term for any street cam.

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ I don't want to give up a ton of low end ........

Keep it at about 270° adv and under 220° @ .05" and you'll see little, if any, loss.

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ whether or not my valve train will be with in specs ........

Not a problem. Hydraulic lifters were designed to take up the slack.

BC on my Herbert regrinds were .05" smaller. 215 Buick and 394 worked fine, with no alterations. 215 Olds was a bit noisy after it warmed up.

Originally Posted by johnfharding

........ they have to remove material from the base circle ........

If the preload gets below .020", you can mill .020" off the rocker stands.

Norm

[54olds]

Originally Posted by johnfharding

Hey guys I have got my completed heads back from the machine shop I thought you might like to see some pics. I didn't get any pics of the bowls.

I did some port matching. I have never done anything like this before so please be kind. I tried to get things pretty close but doing this by hand and being consistent and accurate takes huge amounts of time. Hence why this costs so much to get done professionally.

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Oh man, John - I saw your valve covers, and I wanted to let you know I did the exact same color to mine a couple months back! Here's what mine look like: http://i41.tinypic.com/5peeyd.jpg

I'm getting my heads re-done in about a month. I only hope it comes out as good as yours!

Great job!!

[johnfharding]

I thought that color came out really nice. Your covers are in better shape than mine.

goodluck with the heads let us know how it goes. I am taking my motor to the machine shop this week if all goes as planned. Its ready to be hoisted out of the car. I'm getting ready to post a question on camshafts ,, I really want to have a little hotter cam. Maybe just more lift. I don't know, feels silly to me to spend all this time and money and not get some HP to boot.

I would love to see more pics of your car and projects. thanks for posting

[geckonz08]

exciting .! And good to see tht the dining table is reserved for engine parts
mike

[johnfharding]

Yes I thought they made a really pretty center piece. My wife not so much. I left them there for a couple weeks as the entire house is becoming a restoration storage, rebuilding , dismantling and reconstruction plant. I have engine parts, seats, old A/C parts, dirt grime, tranny fluid looks like the Olds took a little shock and awe. . My brother and I patched up the floor boards, and I dismantled the engine got it to the machine shop for freshening up etc. I can't wait to get the engine bay cleaned up and detailed so I can put the whole thing back together.