1978 delta88 - rear axle ratio and torgue converter?

[mutzi]

hi,
i have a 1978 olds delta88 coupe and i rebuild my 403 engine last time, with ´72A cyl.-heads, mondello jm 18-20 cam, 650 cfm edelbrock AVS carb, edelbrock performer manifold.
mondello tell me than i have 300-400HP.
i don´t feel the power.
when i write mondello a large email than he send me few letters - buy this part......i haved payed enough to him.
all that was to expensive - i put 4000euro inside and i don´t can burn the tires on the pavement.

i will more fun on the street in town and also i will drive on the interstate 90 or 100 miles per our.

i have the original rear axle ratio and original TH350.
do someone have a idea which rear axle ratio and torgue converter(stall speed) i need?


and do you know a store with this parts?

thank you guy for your information
regards from germany

[J-(Chicago)]

Timing problem, or cam degreed wrong?

[J-(Chicago)]

www.Rocketracingperformance.com
www.mjproformance.com

[mutzi]

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

Timing problem, or cam degreed wrong?

i have a edelbrock timing chain and we set the cam in standard position.
is that not correct?

[monzaz]

Ok well usually timing here will be the issue and some better checking for vacuum leaks etc. What is the timing set at? Initial(on the balancer) and total (meaning after all the distributor has fully advanced usually above 3000 rpm)

What ignition are you running?
CAM straight up should be fine...unless it is a Mondello special grind then you have to go by his specs.

Do you have the cam specs.

What stall do you have right now ? stock?

You want to feel the power ...YOU want TORQUE period...

So we need to get the advance moving in quicker... so the fuel and air mix quicker and hope to GOD the cam specs do not have too much over lap in duration.

Gears will help wind up the rpm quicker and a stall may help flash into the power band where the torque is better. these things will help you low end BUT remember you are moving a big car too.

I can help you with the rear diff parts and even go to Summit racing for you to pack up all in one box to hopefully save some money.

We just need to get some more info on your cars specs and then we can make certain before spending MORE MONEY. Take care, Jim

[Warhead]

Originally Posted by monzaz

Ok well usually timing here will be the issue and some better checking for vacuum leaks etc. What is the timing set at? Initial(on the balancer) and total (meaning after all the distributor has fully advanced usually above 3000 rpm)

What ignition are you running?
CAM straight up should be fine...unless it is a Mondello special grind then you have to go by his specs.

Do you have the cam specs.

What stall do you have right now ? stock?

You want to feel the power ...YOU want TORQUE period...

So we need to get the advance moving in quicker... so the fuel and air mix quicker and hope to GOD the cam specs do not have too much over lap in duration.

Gears will help wind up the rpm quicker and a stall may help flash into the power band where the torque is better. these things will help you low end BUT remember you are moving a big car too.

I can help you with the rear diff parts and even go to Summit racing for you to pack up all in one box to hopefully save some money.

We just need to get some more info on your cars specs and then we can make certain before spending MORE MONEY. Take care, Jim

I agree with Jim here, more ignition advance curve. How fast the advance comes in will make a huge difference.
If you still want to drive on the autobahn, do not go more than a 3.23 gear, unless you have an O/D trans (you did not state that before). 3.08-3.23 will cause some major tire wear, and still have good high speed.
Not a fan of a high stall converter if you plan on any highway miles. If you do, an auxillary cooler is a MUST DO.
Jim

[mutzi]

ok,
i think i have maybe the original ratio 1:2.41,
on the small metal-stripe are the code:

2KA - B
- 2.41


i think about for a 3.08 to 3.23 ratio. - what is the best for town (tire burning and drive on interstate 140/150km/h?
i look what inside the axle is and tell you that than.

than i have the stock torgue converter.

i have the stock ignition,
the full timing-set incl. initial is 34-35 degrees.

the cam is jm18-20 specs are:
intake @0.050 is 216°
exaust @0.050 is 226°
lobe separation 112°
advance Intake/Exhaust duration 260°/266°
intake lift 0.488
exhaust lift 0.496
rpm range 1000-5000

i have another gear cooler on the front.

dear monzaz - do you have a web-site where i can order parts?

thanks guys and have a good time
michael from germany

[monzaz]

Well looking at the cam it does seem a bit high for a BIG car to get moving out of the hole... like I said you might need a stall to flash a bit more into the power band for more hole shot NO MORE than 2500.

Start with ignition and carb those are you biggest performance robbers when you do not have them right your car/truck will just plain run like crap. (pardon my FRENCH...lol

Yes I have a website I will PM you

Take care, Jim

[Redog]

Sounds like a decent cam, but those 2.41's will not really work well with it. I would get a set of 3.08's or 3.23's like said earier, but giving the Autobanh speeds, I would stick with a 3.08 gear if you don't have an overdrive tranny. With and OD tranny, I wouldn't go much higher than 3.42's.

Do a posi as well

[mutzi]

i´m looking in the next 3 weeks what i have for a rear axle - i think is a oval 10 bolt cover maybe a 8.875 gear.

is the 3.08 for the car good or a little bit to large, is 3.23 better? but i look on monzaz site - for the 8.875 gear gives only a 3.08.

can i burn easy the 235 or 245 tires with the 3.08 ratio?

is it from 2.41 ratio to 3.08 ratio a big feeling power or is that not a big differed?

thanks jim and redog

[J-(Chicago)]

You will be able to feel the difference between a 2.41 and a 3.08.