New to the Site My 1970 Olds
Oldsdruid
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,635
From: Southside Vajenya
On the decklid, get another one. You could cut that rust out and I can almost guarantee within a couple years it'll be back. Still plenty of cars in dry areas of the country, and you'll spend the same money fixing rust as buying a rust free decklid.
Wheel arch area- patch panels. This is another area that tends to come back, so make sure you clean and seal the outer wheelhouse area too. Repro quarters are available, but you may have to do a lot of fitting to make them fit and look right.
Edge of vinyl roof- remove the top and moldings, mask the glass good, then sandblast the rust off. It looks like mostly surface rust, but be prepared for the sandblaster to find holes you didn't think were there.
All these are common rust areas on these cars, so someone, somewhere has learned how to fix it.
Hood tooth and moldings should be fairly easy to find. Once yer Cutlass has its tooth again, you may wish it didn't. Back of my head has a bunch of scars from Cutlass (and big Olds) hood teeth.
I recommend buying a 1970 Olds Chassis Manual, Fisher Body Manual, and an Assembly Manual. These will show how to remove/install all the moldings and how to disassemble and reassemble the car. Plus there's wiring diagrams and factory procedures- and believe me having one is sometimes the only way to figure out how to do something on these cars.
Wheel arch area- patch panels. This is another area that tends to come back, so make sure you clean and seal the outer wheelhouse area too. Repro quarters are available, but you may have to do a lot of fitting to make them fit and look right.
Edge of vinyl roof- remove the top and moldings, mask the glass good, then sandblast the rust off. It looks like mostly surface rust, but be prepared for the sandblaster to find holes you didn't think were there.
All these are common rust areas on these cars, so someone, somewhere has learned how to fix it.
Hood tooth and moldings should be fairly easy to find. Once yer Cutlass has its tooth again, you may wish it didn't. Back of my head has a bunch of scars from Cutlass (and big Olds) hood teeth.
I recommend buying a 1970 Olds Chassis Manual, Fisher Body Manual, and an Assembly Manual. These will show how to remove/install all the moldings and how to disassemble and reassemble the car. Plus there's wiring diagrams and factory procedures- and believe me having one is sometimes the only way to figure out how to do something on these cars.
Last edited by rocketraider; Feb 17, 2008 at 04:31 PM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
My body man told me once of a product you can slather on over paint but I forgot the name of the stuff...it takes about $80 to coat a vehicle but it apparently prevents it from rusting farther.
I haven't used it, don't remember the name, and can't verify if it's worth wasting money on or not, so that's not terribly helpful...
I haven't used it, don't remember the name, and can't verify if it's worth wasting money on or not, so that's not terribly helpful...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18
On the decklid, get another one. You could cut that rust out and I can almost guarantee within a couple years it'll be back. Still plenty of cars in dry areas of the country, and you'll spend the same money fixing rust as buying a rust free decklid.
Wheel arch area- patch panels. This is another area that tends to come back, so make sure you clean and seal the outer wheelhouse area too. Repro quarters are available, but you may have to do a lot of fitting to make them fit and look right.
Edge of vinyl roof- remove the top and moldings, mask the glass good, then sandblast the rust off. It looks like mostly surface rust, but be prepared for the sandblaster to find holes you didn't think were there.
All these are common rust areas on these cars, so someone, somewhere has learned how to fix it.
Hood tooth and moldings should be fairly easy to find. Once yer Cutlass has its tooth again, you may wish it didn't. Back of my head has a bunch of scars from Cutlass (and big Olds) hood teeth.
I recommend buying a 1970 Olds Chassis Manual, Fisher Body Manual, and an Assembly Manual. These will show how to remove/install all the moldings and how to disassemble and reassemble the car. Plus there's wiring diagrams and factory procedures- and believe me having one is sometimes the only way to figure out how to do something on these cars.
Wheel arch area- patch panels. This is another area that tends to come back, so make sure you clean and seal the outer wheelhouse area too. Repro quarters are available, but you may have to do a lot of fitting to make them fit and look right.
Edge of vinyl roof- remove the top and moldings, mask the glass good, then sandblast the rust off. It looks like mostly surface rust, but be prepared for the sandblaster to find holes you didn't think were there.
All these are common rust areas on these cars, so someone, somewhere has learned how to fix it.
Hood tooth and moldings should be fairly easy to find. Once yer Cutlass has its tooth again, you may wish it didn't. Back of my head has a bunch of scars from Cutlass (and big Olds) hood teeth.
I recommend buying a 1970 Olds Chassis Manual, Fisher Body Manual, and an Assembly Manual. These will show how to remove/install all the moldings and how to disassemble and reassemble the car. Plus there's wiring diagrams and factory procedures- and believe me having one is sometimes the only way to figure out how to do something on these cars.
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