68 Cutlass wont start

[68oldsrocket]

Hey everyone..new to this site so bare with me. I have a 68 Cutlass Holiday Coupe..350 2bbl. All of a sudden she wont start for me. Crandks no problem..def has spark and fuel. She ignites but as soon as i let off the key she dies. Im thinkin ignition switch or something to do with the constant power to the distributor (HEI by the way). Any other thoughts??

[texasred]

Are you running the original wire to power the HEI? It's a resistance wire and provides only 8-9 volts. If so, run a wire from the IGN tap on the fuse box to power the HEI.

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

i think i am using that same wire so i will def replace it but any ideas why all of a sudden it wont turn over?

[68oldsrocket]

ended up bein the control module in the HEI distributor...put new plugs in and gapped them to .060 for the hei opposed to .030 stock..Gonna replace the wire with a straight 12volt source tomorrow...thanx!

[texasred]

Good job! Having less than 12 volts will fry things alright.

I wrote up an article on that change-over for the South Texas Oldsmobile Club newsletter in September 2005. (I knew it'd get published 'cause I'm the editor.) You can find it here http://southtexasoldsmobileclub.com/news.htm.

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

hey texasred,
Read part of ur article about the losing voltage through the accessories..I was thinkin..what if I hjust ran a wire from the battery to a switch then to the HEI so it would act almost as a personal alarm feature..I could mount it right under the dash so when i kill the swirch the car shuts off and without it on noone can start it with the key...good or bad idea? I just figured it would be a straight 12 volts if not mor eonce the alternator kicks in...

[Oldsguy]

People have done that and have liked the security.

[texasred]

Originally Posted by 68oldsrocket

hey texasred,
Read part of ur article about the losing voltage through the accessories..I was thinkin..what if I hjust ran a wire from the battery to a switch then to the HEI so it would act almost as a personal alarm feature..I could mount it right under the dash so when i kill the swirch the car shuts off and without it on noone can start it with the key...good or bad idea? I just figured it would be a straight 12 volts if not mor eonce the alternator kicks in...

That'd work...as long as you didn't forget to turn it off and fry your coil. All it would take is once...

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

Here is a sound clip guys...thanx for the help once again!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tv1Sco4iPUY

[68oldsrocket]

k now my problem is this..when idling the engine runs perfect but when i try to start movin it seems very sluggish. Now aftyer reading texasreds article its gotta be the vacuum at the hei but now what do i do..let a mechanic check it or is there an easy way to play with it? I will check it out on friday to see if there is a screw or something to just turn..thanx

[Oldsguy]

Yes C.J. good article in the newsletter, well written. About the vacumm, you might want to verify that you are getting sufficient vacumm advance when the engine accelerates or is under a load. As you described, the car idles fine and revs fine but when you put it in drive it doesn't run well. Is that right? Does it rev up to about 3,000 rpm well in park (sounded good in clip)? Check to make sure your vacumm advance is working well if you have a timing light. If it is good, then check it with the car in drive. CAUTION! use parking brake and have your helper ride the brakes hard and don't stand in front of the car. If it works fine in park but not in drive you might have a vacumm leak that is not only affecting your vacumm advance but also affecting carburetor operation. I have seen this problem before. I hope this helps you. By the way, your car sounds really nice in the clip you provided and looks cool (at least the part that is visible). Nice ride!

[68oldsrocket]

Awesome response..thanx! And thanx for the compliments...she is gettin there!! Its def a vacuum problem cause like I said and u confirmed it is def fine in park at all conditions(reving or idling) but when driving there is def significant power loss so I wil check that out on fri first thing and let u know..thanx again!!

[texasred]

Another couple of thoughts...if the TCS switch (front of the intake next to the oil tube) or the transmission vacuum advance is bad, it could be leaking away just enough vacuum to kill your vacuum advance.

Plus all the stuff I put on the other site.

C.J.

[texasred]

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

Yes C.J. good article in the newsletter, well written.

Thanks!

[68oldsrocket]

Good call tex...the connector on that is half broken and prob never makes a good contact..ill have to replace the actual sensor and connector..the sensor screws into the intake correct..to the left of the thermostat housing??

[texasred]

Originally Posted by 68oldsrocket

Good call tex...the connector on that is half broken and prob never makes a good contact..ill have to replace the actual sensor and connector..the sensor screws into the intake correct..to the left of the thermostat housing??

DAMN I'm good!

Those things are scarce as hen's teeth and about as useful. They sit in the water jacket and delay the advance vacuum signal until after the engine warms up. (Big whoopie!)

Join the thousans of us that have bypassed it with no ill effects. Go to Auto Bone or Advance and get some vacuum 'T' connectors and plumb them all together. No problems!

Just for archives sake, I'll repeat my answer from the other board, too.

Vacuum and mechanical advance on HEIs are for heavy smog engines...meaning bad for "real" driving. The Crane Cams adjustable vacuum advance kit has a new can (adjustable, of course) and new springs for the mechanical advance. There's others on the market (and I've owned most of them at one time or another) but I think Crane is the best.

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

Yeah i was just hinking its not like its telling a computer really anything cause technically the HEI connects in no way to the engine harnss so really all that sensor is doin is makin a light glow if it gets to hot no? How could it play with the vacuum advance?

[texasred]

Just to clarify, it looks like this: http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...acuumswitc.jpg

And it is on the intake behind the oil tube here:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...49753634_4.jpg

Yes?

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

that is 100% not on my car..i will double check but I am positive it is not

[texasred]

Originally Posted by texasred

DAMN I'm good!

OK...maybe not.

It should be right behind the oil tube, as on the engine picture. Wasn't sure what year they started. Sincere apologies for the wild goose chase.

The rest of my advise IS valid...I PROMISE!

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

you may be right...I may be crazy... but im pretty sure its not there...no biggie..there is a sensor there thats gotta be the tcs but no vacuum just an electrical connector..ordered a new one last night from year one for the hell of it..only 15 bucks or so...thanx!

[texasred]

If it has no vacuum connections and was only $15, then it certainly isn't a TCS. I've seen USED ones on ebay for $100+!

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

k tex here we go...first link is the vacuum switch...can you tell me which port goes where so i can confirm I have them right...

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2087...57565096sTWeOZ

Also here is the supposed TCS I am talking about..the connector broke so its kinda makin contact on top so I ordered a new one and a connector just cause it should be replaced anyways..

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2672...57565096iwivPq

[texasred]

***Somebody with a 68 confirm that I'm not talking out of my @ss!***

On my 71, the vacuum switch (pic 1) and temp sender (pic 2) are on the opposite sides of the manifold...not that I think it matters. On the vacuum switch (pic 1), it shouldn't matter if the hoses are switched. Try bypassing the vacuum switch and see if it makes a difference.

But then again, I've been known to be wrong...a LOT!

C.J.

[68oldsrocket]

k thanx