Front Coil Springs Change

[mcutlass1969]

I am attempting to change out the front springs on a 1969 Cutlass S. the card still has the origanal rotor setup on the front. I managed to get the shocks out but see now I am at a stopping point. I don't want to remove the ball joints if i don't have too. I also don't want to have to unhook the control arms from the frame. So what is the easies way to change out the front springs? Can I knock ou the ball joint bolts and swing the rotor out of the way to get the lower arm to drop?

[Dave H]

Originally Posted by mcutlass1969

I am attempting to change out the front springs on a 1969 Cutlass S. the card still has the origanal rotor setup on the front. I managed to get the shocks out but see now I am at a stopping point. I don't want to remove the ball joints if i don't have too. I also don't want to have to unhook the control arms from the frame. So what is the easies way to change out the front springs? Can I knock out the ball joint bolts and swing the rotor out of the way to get the lower arm to drop?

The easiest and safest way is to get a good spring compressor that goes up inside the coils through the shock opening. Takes a little finagling to set it up, but once you get the hang of it, not too bad. It grabs the coils on both sides, top and bottom and pulls them together with a large acme threaded screw. Once you get the coil compressed enough, it's up to you whether you remove the Control arm bolts or the upper ball joint. Comes apart easier if you pull the control arm bolts, but a nightmare to get back together that way. Upper ball joints are cheap, use a pickle fork to split it open (usually cuts the seal necessitating replacement) and much easier and SAFER that way. Loosen the control arm bolts to let the arm swing down to get the old spring out and the new one in. I put a floor jack under the arm to assist with that and also as a safety measure.

Just finished changing them on my 66 442 again. Take your time, be careful.

I believe Year One sells those compressors, or you can usually rent them from a parts store. The "fingers" that grab the coils are hinged and note that one leg is longer than the other. It's designed that way to make installation easier and also to compensate for the angle of the coils in the helix. Precompress the new springs before you put them in. Also pay attentiion to the orientation of the pig tail end of the spring in the lower control arm. It has to be rotated properly.