Assuming price is the same and you desire a suspension upgrade, which would you choose to use and why. Or just assume both are FREE and sitting on a table in front of you

1) Stock FE2 suspension w/ Hotchkis Bilstein shocks
2) Hotchkis TVS system w/ Hotchkis HPS1000 Bilstein shocks

 

Since both are free I would take both - one to use & one to resell!

Seriously, i would use the stock setup due to stock looks and perfect fit and reasonable performance. I also know how it all goes together without reading any directions printed in Chinglish, if you are lucky enough to even get that...
Of course the circus-colored Bilsteins will need to be repainted gray...

I am not turned on by how fast I can turn corners, so all that extra performance is not needed. I look mainly for comfortable ride on the straightaways and the ability to corner quickly and safely only IF needed.

 

I would go with stock FE2 suspension.

 

The price tag for the Hotchkis TVS is a little hard to swallow, but the A-body cars, even with the FE2 suspension, are understeering pigs. A larger rear bar is necessary to fix that. I also like that the Hotchkis bars are hollow (well the front bar is in that set, they also sell a hollow rear bar), saving weight. Personally I've sourced several WS6 1.25" front bars from a Trans Am for $25 each, and I've stumbled onto several 1" and larger aftermarket rear bars for around $100 each.

 

Yep, that is why I mentioned the FREE thing I know their front control arms are crazy $$

Thing is I already have the TVS kit and would be a pain to sell/ship, and also b/c I threw the boxes out.

On the other hand, a local olds guy has NOS rear boxed arms for $300. Seems high though, but just the fact someone nearby has them is a nice to know.

So even the stock 7/8" 394926 rear bar with a 1"+ front stock bar is no where near as good as the Hotchkis 1" rear and 1 3/8" front tubular?

 

While no one wants an understeering pig, it's worth pointing out that, when it comes to suspensions, stiffer is not always better. First, everything has to be balanced (lest you end up with an understeering pig -- or oversteering whatever). Second, a stiffer suspension will not only be less comfortable on rough roads, it will actually handle and corner worse. I'm not voting for either of your choices -- just suggesting that you don't fall into the trap of thinking "heavy-duty" is always better.

 

Yes, the suspension must be developed as a "system" that works together. I should point out, however, that stiffer sway bars to not affect ride comfort the way stiffer springs do. Personally I'd prefer a setup with stiffer bars and softer springs. In any case, suspension setup does need to account for springs, shocks, bars, tires, suspension bushings, control arm length, CG location, polar moment of the vehicle, etc, etc. That's why I point out that the "stiff end breaks away first" rule of thumb is just that - a guideline not a hard and fast requirement.

 

I just received a rear 7/8" bar (394926) from GMPD. Would it be not a good 'match' with the Hotchkis hollow 1 3/8" front?

I am looking for a stock look is all, since the rear bar is so visible from behind.

However, I am also still concerned the hollow 1 3/8" Hotchkis front bar will contact the Moog idler arm I picked up. Will find out once I mount it I guess.

 

Well, the 7/8" bar is stock, so it should look stock. Performance wise it's definitely better than no bar, but I would have gone larger on the back to offset the larger-than-stock front.

 

So, Joe, not to digress, but do F-body (TA / Camaro) front sway bars bolt up to A-bodies?

A fact I hadn't known...

Thanks,

- Eric

 

Yes, but only the second gen (1970-1981) cars. Also, you need to use the F-body end links (and of course the correct diameter frame bushings).

 

Thanks!

Good to know.

 

I did put a global west under my car so I would do the hotchkis. But I like the way the car handles but it is definately different than a stock car. Not as smooth as stock but it does corner better. I do not find any adverse handling issue with the way the car is set up.

 

Thx. I still have the 1" rear solid Hotchkis bar (complete TVS + HP1000 Bilsteins) and was wondering about the over/under steer. I imagine a 'hollow' 1 3/8" front bar is more like a solid 1 1/4" or so?

I think I will get the Global West frame braces though, as the bolt will not protrude nearly as much as the Hotchkis ones (which touches the mufflers in some pics I have seen). The stock FE2 ones seem a little flimsy, at least in pics.

 

I do have a problem with the rear frame brace contacting a muffler. Needs to be just right to keep from hitting.

I do not have a problem with excess understeer or oversteer well unless I kick the 455 in the backside.

 

I've found that original bars work a lot better with polyurethane bushings and endlinks - try that before spending a lot of bucks!
Might change your mind!

 

Yes, and again, the response of the suspension is the result of the interaction of all the parts. The poly end links are stiffer than the stock rubber links, making the sway bar more effective since you aren't wasting motion by compressing the rubber end links.

 

I've done a bunch of different setups on my LeMans (A-Body), H-O Strong Arm (the first tall spindle swap people), the Hotchkis, and now I have all Global West stuff with AFX spindles. There is NO comparison to stock with any of those setups, and you can make them soft or stiff to your liking. Panic situation you want it to handle well? Guess what? That's when the understeer will kill you. Litterally. Why do modern cars handle better? It's safer, for one. If you're doing it all, why not upgrade? Makes complete sense to me to do so.

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