steering box replacement.
#1
steering box replacement.
I need to replace the steering box on my 1970 442 due to leaks. Why can't I go to the parts house localy and get a rebuilt box from a car that had the quick ratio. and what car and year will that be that is a direct bolt on replacement?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
The F-body cars also used a quick ratio box, but the internal stops are different and if you use it in an A-body, you'll have different turning radii from right to left.
#3
I had replaced my 72 Cutlass steering box replaced today. I used the Grand Cherokee steering box fix. It was inexpensive and turned out great. I also had the pump and hoses replaced at the same time. Mine is not a restoration, it's a weekend show and go car.
Last edited by bgoble; January 22nd, 2010 at 06:08 PM.
#4
The adapters are from here: http://lee-powersteering.com/contact-us.htm
They drop into the fittings. I've had it for a year and a half and it's completely changed the car's responsiveness. It darts between lanes like a modern car. Love it!
#6
That is a very cool suggestion!-
#7
Joe, the 92-98 Grand Cherokee boxes have a 12.7:1 ratio and there is no loss of turning radius. I am not smart enought to have figured this out on my own, I found the info on one of the chevelle forums.
#10
Same here, I think I paid $60.00. I spent $15.00 on the Lee adapters and a new low pressure fitting (the original was beat up) and another $60.00 for the complete steering coupler, delivered. The Lee adapters just drop into the box fittings to convert the modern o-ring fittings to the flared fittings on pre-1980 cars. Even though the Grand Cherokee box has metric threads, they are close enough to work with the original fittings. I don't have any leaks from the fittings. I think the original A-Body steering box sweep is 40 degrees and the Grand Cherokee is 41 degrees. An awesome coincidence. I also found out about it on Chevelles.com, but found more specific information from the Pontiac Performance years forums. Lot of guys have done it to their GTOs. I am a big proponent of the swap. In my opinion, is the best "bang for the buck" after big sway bars to improve handling inexpensively. I'm amazed at how well the car responds. With the original box (I don't know what the ratio was 16:1?), sudden lane changes were scary. Not anymore! If you have any more questions, let me know.
#11
henryk8398
Let me see if I have the right. Steering box from a 93-98 jeep grand cherokee, Steering coupler #200 Auto zone, hose adapters from Lee Manuf.
Did you use your original pitman arm?
Do the hose adapters press in to the GC box?
Any other parts I need to grab from the GC?
Any t tape or pipe dope on the threads?
Thanks.
Let me see if I have the right. Steering box from a 93-98 jeep grand cherokee, Steering coupler #200 Auto zone, hose adapters from Lee Manuf.
Did you use your original pitman arm?
Do the hose adapters press in to the GC box?
Any other parts I need to grab from the GC?
Any t tape or pipe dope on the threads?
Thanks.
#12
henryk8398
Let me see if I have the right. Steering box from a 93-98 jeep grand cherokee, Steering coupler #200 Auto zone, hose adapters from Lee Manuf.
Did you use your original pitman arm?
Do the hose adapters press in to the GC box?
Any other parts I need to grab from the GC?
Any t tape or pipe dope on the threads?
Thanks.
Let me see if I have the right. Steering box from a 93-98 jeep grand cherokee, Steering coupler #200 Auto zone, hose adapters from Lee Manuf.
Did you use your original pitman arm?
Do the hose adapters press in to the GC box?
Any other parts I need to grab from the GC?
Any t tape or pipe dope on the threads?
Thanks.
*The Lee hose adapters just drop in, no hydraulic press needed. They press in with your thumb. They look like little aluminum "mushrooms"
*To be safe, get the pitman arm nut and washer from the GC box.
*Tape or pipe dope is a good idea. I think I used teflon tape.
*check the GC box for signs of leakage. Reseal, if needed. You only want to do this once!
Can you send me a link to the autozone coupler? I need to see a picture.
Also, the steering shaft splines on the column had to be roated either 90 or 180 degrees to work with the new coupler. One thing I would like to bring up is that I have a Grant steering wheel. The adapter that comes with it allowed me to "reclock" it to work with the new gear. I don't know how a stock steering wheel will behave. Something to consider, but I'm sure it's been done.
Let me know what you come up with!
#13
I got the custom rag joint from Lee and everything bolted up perfectly. The stock steering wheel was clocked correctly. The rag joint from Lee was a little expensive but it was designed for this particular swap. I didn't mind paying a little more from Lee because of their customer service and wealth of knowledge. Let us know how it goes.
#14
I must disagree. The PS lines are flare fittings with straight threads. The seal is made with the flare, not the threads. No sealer was used from the factory. Teflon tape is designed for tapered pipe threads, not straight threads. At best the teflon is not doing anything. At worst, it can cause the fittings to not seal properly or to loosen. If you cannot seal the flare fittings, there is something else wrong.
#15
I must disagree. The PS lines are flare fittings with straight threads. The seal is made with the flare, not the threads. No sealer was used from the factory. Teflon tape is designed for tapered pipe threads, not straight threads. At best the teflon is not doing anything. At worst, it can cause the fittings to not seal properly or to loosen. If you cannot seal the flare fittings, there is something else wrong.
#16
Attached are pic's of the Lares #200 rag joint and the Lee Adp.
I have found a 95 GC box $35.00 with the return line that I will reuse.
I'm going to give it a try and will post the outcome.
I have found a 95 GC box $35.00 with the return line that I will reuse.
I'm going to give it a try and will post the outcome.
#17
#18
Did you reuse the cutlass powersteering pump? I assume so. I'm gonna look into this. My 72 just need the steering box and pump replaced. Very interesting. Thanks to those who have shared the info.
Matt
Matt
#19
I chose to replace the pump and hoses at the same time. I picked up a ps pump and hoses for a 72 cutlass and everything went together without a problem.
#20
Does it matter if it's a 6 cyl or 5.2? 2wd vs 4wd. What search do I use for the rag joint? I'm having a hard time finding it on autozone.com. I found a box with 60k miles kinda local. The top looks a little grungy like it had a leak. Is there a seal that is replaceable or should I move on? Thanks.
Matt
Matt
Last edited by rktolds; January 30th, 2010 at 08:09 AM.
#21
#22
Update
Bolted up the 95 jeep grand charokee steering box with the Dorman rag joint with no problums. Got everything lined up and my original pitman arm bolted up also.
I have not received the Lee adptor, hopfully today. I took the return line from the jeep and have used it in the jeep pump by cutting the metal line down and hose clamping my existing line. Will use the Lee adp. on the pressure line only.
With the front weels off the ground and everything bolted up, I do infact have 2.5 turns lock to lock and the steering wheel is lined up with the front wheels.
So far this is right up my alley and within my small budget.
Jeep box $39.00
Rag joint $51.00
Lee Adp $13.00
Total cost $103.00
Bolted up the 95 jeep grand charokee steering box with the Dorman rag joint with no problums. Got everything lined up and my original pitman arm bolted up also.
I have not received the Lee adptor, hopfully today. I took the return line from the jeep and have used it in the jeep pump by cutting the metal line down and hose clamping my existing line. Will use the Lee adp. on the pressure line only.
With the front weels off the ground and everything bolted up, I do infact have 2.5 turns lock to lock and the steering wheel is lined up with the front wheels.
So far this is right up my alley and within my small budget.
Jeep box $39.00
Rag joint $51.00
Lee Adp $13.00
Total cost $103.00
#23
Problems
I have ran into problems with the jeep box and need help.
In order to bolt the box up I had to apply lots of force to get the mounting holes to line up to the frame with the rag joint hooked up. Now the gear is leaking from the input shaft.
Is there any adjustment in the intermediate shaft to take the pressure off the input shaft.
Is the pressure on the input shaft allowing it to leak past the seal? Seal looked good.
Help.
In order to bolt the box up I had to apply lots of force to get the mounting holes to line up to the frame with the rag joint hooked up. Now the gear is leaking from the input shaft.
Is there any adjustment in the intermediate shaft to take the pressure off the input shaft.
Is the pressure on the input shaft allowing it to leak past the seal? Seal looked good.
Help.
#24
I have ran into problems with the jeep box and need help.
In order to bolt the box up I had to apply lots of force to get the mounting holes to line up to the frame with the rag joint hooked up. Now the gear is leaking from the input shaft.
Is there any adjustment in the intermediate shaft to take the pressure off the input shaft.
Is the pressure on the input shaft allowing it to leak past the seal? Seal looked good.
Help.
In order to bolt the box up I had to apply lots of force to get the mounting holes to line up to the frame with the rag joint hooked up. Now the gear is leaking from the input shaft.
Is there any adjustment in the intermediate shaft to take the pressure off the input shaft.
Is the pressure on the input shaft allowing it to leak past the seal? Seal looked good.
Help.
#25
You should be able to slide the intermediate shaft back and forth (towards the front or rear of the car). If I remember correctly, there is a rubber sleeve on the shaft which contains a sliding assembly. It's closer to the column than the gearbox. It sounds like you need to slide it back towards the firewall. I vaguely remember having to do that. Yours may be stuck. I'll try and find a picture of what I'm talking about and post it. It makes sense that it would cause your leaks.
#27
Sucess
WOW! Wish I had converted the old ride long ago. The first pump I got was bad, used one out of a 1996.
I suggest reading jim sheas power steering pages before starting, on chevelletech.
The wife drove it today a the inprovement in her opinion is 1,000,000,00% better.
Thanks to all for your help.
I suggest reading jim sheas power steering pages before starting, on chevelletech.
The wife drove it today a the inprovement in her opinion is 1,000,000,00% better.
Thanks to all for your help.
#29
Interesting, the picture I took was right under the booster. I don't think mine has that, but then again, it's a `72, so that might be why. I'm so glad that you are happy with it. It's a wonderful upgrade and really makes the car react soy well in today's traffic. Enjoy!
#30
I got a used grand cherokee box and i saw on chevelletech that there is a 2 letter system on the box i.e. KW, AL, etc. that designates it as a box to use for this swap. Where exactly is it on the box?
#32
GC it will be quick ratio. I didn't bother to see if mine was even marked.
#33
You can just check the Ratio by turning the shaft and watching the ammount of travel the pitman arm travels.
The correct 93-98 JGC box should be 3.1 turns lock to lock and the pitman has 87 degrees of travel. You can check this with a cheap protractor.
The correct 93-98 JGC box should be 3.1 turns lock to lock and the pitman has 87 degrees of travel. You can check this with a cheap protractor.
#34
Thanks for the comments. I saw on chevelletech that a box has a two letter designation that shows it came from a GC and that these boxes were the correct ones for retrofitting into our A bodies. Just wanted to make sure before I went to all the trouble that I had the right one. I will check the turns lock to lock and the sweep angle.
#36
The turning radius is the same as it was with the original box. The advantage is the 2.5 turns lock to lock and much better road feal. Be sure to avacuate all the air from the box prior to starting your can.
I wish I had converted mine a long time ago.
I wish I had converted mine a long time ago.
#39
So I am looking at doing a box conversion and wondering if anyone has used the box from the Buick GN? I have heard it works and Joe P mentioned it as well. Will the same Lee fittings be used and any draw backs over the GC box?
#40
Support the front of the car on jackstands so the front wheels are hanging free
Fill up your power steering pump to the cold full line
Start your motor and begin slowly turning the wheel from lock to lock- do this about 30 times
Check the power steering level- with the engine still running-
you will probably have a lot of bubbles in it- but if its low, fill again to the full cold line.
Repeat again- slowly turning the wheel from full lock to full lock another 30 times or so.
Put back on the ground- Rechkeck power steering level. SHould be good to drive the car now.
If you get really aggresive with filling the pump, be prepared to have some of the bubbles come out the lid- that is why i was recommending only filling to the cold full line- fill it in small increments.
Fill up your power steering pump to the cold full line
Start your motor and begin slowly turning the wheel from lock to lock- do this about 30 times
Check the power steering level- with the engine still running-
you will probably have a lot of bubbles in it- but if its low, fill again to the full cold line.
Repeat again- slowly turning the wheel from full lock to full lock another 30 times or so.
Put back on the ground- Rechkeck power steering level. SHould be good to drive the car now.
If you get really aggresive with filling the pump, be prepared to have some of the bubbles come out the lid- that is why i was recommending only filling to the cold full line- fill it in small increments.
Last edited by RAMBOW; March 25th, 2010 at 03:47 PM.