lower door skins

[1971olds350]

how much should i expect to get charged to repair both doors. i have the lower door skins and i already cut into the doors to the shape and size of the skins its a 71 olds cutlass s

[1971olds350]

i guess nobodys done it before huh?
i was guessing about $150 per door

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by 1971olds350

i guess nobodys done it before huh?
i was guessing about $150 per door

I worry about the ability to actually weld that seam properly without introducing warpage. Good rust-free doors run around $150-250 at Carlisle.

[Oldsguy]

I have seen some people over at HAMB address this issue with varying degrees of success. Some say it is easy if you are a good welder, what do I know? I can't weld at all. I think Joe has a point though, you may run a risk of damaging a panel unless you are absolutely sure you can trust the person welding them.

[1971olds350]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

I worry about the ability to actually weld that seam properly without introducing warpage. Good rust-free doors run around $150-250 at Carlisle.

carlisle? do you know how i can get a hold of them

[1971olds350]

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

I have seen some people over at HAMB address this issue with varying degrees of success. Some say it is easy if you are a good welder, what do I know? I can't weld at all. I think Joe has a point though, you may run a risk of damaging a panel unless you are absolutely sure you can trust the person welding them.

joe has a point your right

[1971olds350]

you guys should watch this video. who knows i might end up trying this http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/595/74/

[dantana]

I would say you need to do some research on who would be able to do the job properly in your area. I would get about $200 per door if the inner structure edge is in good condition. I would use a door panel bonding adhesive along the edge to keep it sealed from moisture. The weld can be done with a minimum of distortion. The key to this is patience. You must use a soft wire to weld so you can hammer the welds as you go to keep a gap in the remaining areas to be welded. Once you lose the gap it starts to push the metal all over. It will take a small amount of body filler to finish the area but once again if done properly there is nothing to worry about. I am not so sure about "rust free" doors. They all start to rust in the folded over seam. It is impossible to clean and protect the seam unless the door skin is removed. You will be taking a chance either way you look at it . The "rust free" door may last a long time but I would put a properly done repair job up against it any time. Go to some local car events and see where people are getting the best work done. Ask the technician what their proceedure would be. If they don't want to tell you then they may not care enough to do it right.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by dantana

I would say you need to do some research on who would be able to do the job properly in your area. I would get about $200 per door if the inner structure edge is in good condition. I would use a door panel bonding adhesive along the edge to keep it sealed from moisture. The weld can be done with a minimum of distortion. The key to this is patience. You must use a soft wire to weld so you can hammer the welds as you go to keep a gap in the remaining areas to be welded. Once you lose the gap it starts to push the metal all over. It will take a small amount of body filler to finish the area but once again if done properly there is nothing to worry about. I am not so sure about "rust free" doors. They all start to rust in the folded over seam. It is impossible to clean and protect the seam unless the door skin is removed. You will be taking a chance either way you look at it . The "rust free" door may last a long time but I would put a properly done repair job up against it any time. Go to some local car events and see where people are getting the best work done. Ask the technician what their proceedure would be. If they don't want to tell you then they may not care enough to do it right.

Hammer welding is the correct technique for finishing a butt joint such as this one. The problem is that there is limited access through the holes in the inner door panel and depending on where the seam is, the impact beam in the 71 doors may get in the way. Rust down in the seam is a real problem, however there are a number of products that can be poured down into the door shell to stabilize the corrosion and prevent new occurrences. I guess that if you already have a rusty door, there's nothing to lose (other than the $200 or so) trying a patch panel. You can always try to find a good original if the patch doesn't produce acceptable results. My only point was that good original sheet metal will always be better than a patch panel.

[1971olds350]

what can i pour in to the shell

[csstrux]

At the bodyshop I worked at The bossman had his own concoction that worked well. It was messy though. Start with chassis grease mix in tranny fluid, and paint thinner (laquer) in equal parts until you have a semi fluid consistancy. then apply to the inner body panels as desired or needed. Aplication was done with an undercoat gun but I imagine a brush would work as well. The thinner evaporates, leaving a sticky, self repairing watertight seal. No more rust. Like I said... messy, but he was doing that for years before I started, and never had comebacks due to rust. I don't know of any off the shelf stuff that you can get that really works. I'm sure somebody will jump in if they can think of something better.

[csstrux]

I should note that initially there will be leakage issues, before the stuff sets up. they were minor and easily cleaned up, but should you chose to try his method, you will want to watch for a few days, so as not to get the stuff on the upholstery.