Front end rebuild

[Wireman134]

Hello, enthusiasts. I'm back in my younger days with a 70 Cutlass Supreme, starting a restoration of sorts. It's a all original w/a numbers matching L-74 350, TH350, bucket seat, A/C, and 12 bolt 2.56 gear car. I will be replacing the springs, ball joints and front bushings soon. The car has been sitting a long while, the receipts show in the last 21 years only 26K miles driven .
Odometer shows around 24,100 and engine looks to be untouched (I build one years ago) and runs perfect. Body and frame have only minor surface rust (car is from Fayetteville, Ark). The chassis was sitting about a 1.5" low before I replaced the rear coils and shocks. I've never attempted the front springs before. I had a 72 Supreme I wrenched on 24 years ago but sold it before I could do the front end. Does any one have any tips or tricks, I've got the original chassis manual that came with the car and I'm very mechanical (build a nice street/strip Rocket 355 23 years ago).

Tony

[Oldsguy]

Talk to "gearheads78" he is in the process of completely rebuilding a 442 just a few years older but most of the parts and suspension are very similar in the Cutlass line up if not identical. He could give you a good idea on effort involved, where to get stuff, etc.

[joe_padavano]

You will need an internal spring compressor for the front springs. The springs have different ends (one end ground flat, one not). The flat end goes up. There is a spring pocket inside the frame and the top end of the spring needs to be properly centered on this spring pocket. This is tough to do because it's a blind installation. Also, on the bottom, the lower control arm has a formed pocket. The bottom end of the spring needs to be oriented correctly in this pocket. The Chassis Service Manual has illustrations of this. You'll want a CSM to get the proper torque specs for the suspension bolts.

The other trick is that you must not torque the suspension bolts until the weight of the car is on the suspension. Torquing the bolds locks the rubber suspension bushings in at a certain suspension height and if you do this with the suspension at full drop (which is what happens if the car is jacked up under the frame) then the car will sit too high.

[Wireman134]

Hello, again, with a update. I've got the suspension mostly disassembled. Have to figure out how I'm going to remove the upper arm bushings. Got my inside spring compressor today for the new springs. I went with Moog #5374 for the front and CC501 cargo coils in rear, Moog ball joints, Energy Suspension poly bushings, and Monroe Sensatrac gas shocks. The pivot shafts and upper arm bushings were replaced on this car recently. Does any one have a home method on removing the upper bushings without destroying the shaft. I'm cleaning the frame and firewall in the area with the wheel wells removed to prepare for paint also. This chassis has allot of dusty grime on it. The spring pockets were full of Arkansas dirt and rock mixed with oil and grease. Some areas it was rock hard 1/4" thick. Underneath in some areas factory paint and no surface rust. Got to paint the control arms and visible areas of frame and firewall, than I can start reassembly. It should be worth the effort, the suspension was shot.

Tony

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by Wireman134

...Does any one have a home method on removing the upper bushings without destroying the shaft. ...

Tony

The factory method involves the use of special Kent Moore slotted washer tools that fit onto the shaft and actually use the shaft as the rod to press the bushings out. I've just always used the "burn the rubber out" method. Once you burn the rubber with a torch (propane works fine, it just takes longer) you can collapse the metal outer shell and the shaft comes right out.

[Wireman134]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

The factory method involves the use of special Kent Moore slotted washer tools that fit onto the shaft and actually use the shaft as the rod to press the bushings out. I've just always used the "burn the rubber out" method. Once you burn the rubber with a torch (propane works fine, it just takes longer) you can collapse the metal outer shell and the shaft comes right out.

Almost there. I cut away the exposed rubber to limit the burning mess. I didn't want to use the hot wrench cause of the mess and smoke involved, but a buddy of mine had to torch and I wanted it done. It wasn't that bad, drove the shells out using a open end wrench as that Kent Moore tool and hammered on the pivot shaft with a block of wood, driving the shell into a piece of 2" pipe as a backup tool. Pressed in new shells with 1/2" stainless rod and various pieces of pipe for the lower shells and a hammer and a socket in a vise for the upper shells. Got to love the polyurethane for ease of installation alone. The springs I tackled alone with a Cal-Van spring compressor, compressing the spring to 14-15" and then locating it in frame, using a jack under the control arm the remaining way. Moog springs, ball joints, and Energy Suspension poly bushings. What would a shop charge for this job? I figure with parts $1,500 to $2,000. Not including the cleaning and prep for paint. And so the project continues, whats next...

[gearheads78]

I know I am late to the party but as a tip for anyone one else reading... throw your spring compressor away. Take a chain or heavy duty tow straps and attach the bottom of the floor jack to the top of the frame. Use the jack under the control arm to compress the spring. This method is much faster and much safer than the junk parts store spring compressors I see people use.

Also there is a small hole on the top of the spring pocket. Looking through the hole you can see if you have you spring rotated far enough around.

[Dapapadon]

Originally Posted by gearheads78

I know I am late to the party but as a tip for anyone one else reading... throw your spring compressor away. Take a chain or heavy duty tow straps and attach the bottom of the floor jack to the top of the frame. Use the jack under the control arm to compress the spring. This method is much faster and much safer than the junk parts store spring compressors I see people use.

Now I like that tip! Thanks!

Don

[Wireman134]

Finished it up tonight, wheel wells cleaned up nice. Drove it last night to a local cruise night, it was the best handling A-Body I've driven, very little body roll. I think carb work is next in order, I've got a flat spot off idle...

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by gearheads78

I know I am late to the party but as a tip for anyone one else reading... throw your spring compressor away. Take a chain or heavy duty tow straps and attach the bottom of the floor jack to the top of the frame. Use the jack under the control arm to compress the spring. This method is much faster and much safer than the junk parts store spring compressors I see people use.

Also there is a small hole on the top of the spring pocket. Looking through the hole you can see if you have you spring rotated far enough around.

I've also done it this way, but it can be difficult to get the spring in the upper pocket and also have it lined up correctly on the lower control arm when you jack it up. The Chassis Service Manual actually shows a method where you connect the ball joint but leave the inboard end of the LCA loose and jack up that way to solve this problem. In fact, there is a factory tool that goes up through the center of the spring through the shock absorber hole at the top and is a threaded rod spring compressor to be used instead of a floor jack.

In any case, the problem with the floor jack is that it doesn't work if the engine is not in the car. That's why I bought a quality KD spring compressor.

[Dapapadon]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

That's why I bought a quality KD spring compressor.

Joe, I assume you have the internal spring compressor. Is that correct? Thinking of buying one myself.

Don

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by Dapapadon

Joe, I assume you have the internal spring compressor. Is that correct? Thinking of buying one myself.

Don

Yes, a KD brand. I've never had a problem with it. Just be sure to grease the threads before use.

[Dapapadon]

Thanks Joe!

[apachemobile]

I'm working on completely rebuilding the front end of my 73 Cutlass right now. Also doing the steering components and brakes. Found out the hard way that the floor jack method doesn't work when the engine isn't installed.