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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 16
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Paint protection
I'm driving my '67 442 to the Hotrod Supernationals this weekend in Lincoln, NE. It's 125 miles. Is there such a thing as temporary stickon plastic I can use to protect my new paint job from flying gravel? I'd just need it on the hood and fender ends. I thought about visiting a local new car dealer and using some of that white plastic they use as cars are transported. Is this a bad idea? Would it help?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 38
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I would contact a place that sells body shop supplies. Not a body shop, but a supplier. Most major cities have one or two.
I have seen such clear plastic covers for the front of early 70's Mercedes, so there is bound to be something out there. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Grover Beach, CA
Posts: 19
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http://www.invisiblemask.com
Never used the stuff but its been around for a while. Can google search for vinyl hood protector, it'll get ya some returns. CB |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 1,563
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The clear mask stuff is not very temporary. Its hard to get off and expensive.
Its going to be ugly as hell but if you are that worried about it the body shops use a yellow film called crash wrap. I designed to cover broken windows and big open gaps that open the interior to weather. It should do what you want to do and will be easy to get back off.
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-Richard 66 Cutlass ragtop my way ![]() Keep watching your cotton candy coated TV while your world falls apart around you... |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 835
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You know, I was wondering about something like this myself. I'm driving the car 2400 miles, and am worried about the paint getting screwed up from not only rocks, but also bugs.
Richard, are you talking about the Invisible Mask, or the plastic that comes on new cars?
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1968 Olds 442 Sports Coupe 4-speed/bench seat |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 1,563
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Quote:
The white plastic is similar to the yellow crash wrap I was refering to.
__________________
-Richard 66 Cutlass ragtop my way ![]() Keep watching your cotton candy coated TV while your world falls apart around you... |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 47
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Rubber Seal Wreck Wrap # MP-421
3' x 200' Roll, nicely transparent clear adhesive backed plastic that removes easily & does not tend to leave any residue even after getting wet or being in the sun. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 835
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Do you guys think it's worth it? It's $86 a roll. I can't tell if it's overkill or not. Not sure about the original poster, but this car is meant to be driven.
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1968 Olds 442 Sports Coupe 4-speed/bench seat |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: LI,NY
Posts: 786
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Tom, $86 as compared to the cost of repainting your nose....I think you can figure this one out...
and you won't use it all so you'll have plenty left for future trips The only thing I can say about putting something that is not "breathable" over a paint job(especially a fresh one) is to be careful about moisture getting underneath it, then it baking in (sun or heat from engine). I see painters make this mistake all the time, they put a wet or damp car in the booth for painting, cover it in plastic to prevent overspray contmination, then bake it without removing the plastic. Talk about staining issues. Sometimes the car can be re-baked and the stains fade out, but usually, they end up with a light sand and polish to remove them.![]()
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Erik Turner 65 Vista Cruiser 72 Cutlass |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 1,563
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Yup....I think I finally have my painter out of that habit. He got tired of me sending cars right back.
__________________
-Richard 66 Cutlass ragtop my way ![]() Keep watching your cotton candy coated TV while your world falls apart around you... |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 16
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The only way my car will be on a trailer is if it's not drivable. After all the investment in time and money, I just want to keep it as nice as possible. The car was painted about a year ago so the paint is well cured. I've driven it about 1100 miles with no chips and no wash jobs. It seems to me that $86 would be a cheap investment...if it works. I'll see if I can find someone locally that I can buy some from. I, of course, want to use this product only while driving to and from a car show because I know it won't be beautiful. My wife wants me to trailer it anytime we leave town but as I said, it's made to be driven.
Last edited by tecar442; May 27th, 2009 at 06:40 PM.. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 835
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I guess on mine, I'm a little worried about the paint curing issue. It's been a little over a three weeks since it was painted, and is getting buffed out right now, so I'm not sure if that's enough time or not.
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1968 Olds 442 Sports Coupe 4-speed/bench seat |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Proud Viet Nam Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 480
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You could alway go to a trim shop and have a bra made for your car. Won't be cheap but you will always have it and it can be reused. I think that is what I would look at.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: n. alabama-heart of dixie
Posts: 209
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I'd be careful 68TOM,3 weeks it may not be fully cured.The best thing to do is contact your painter,if your car was ''baked'' i'd say you could get away with it on a 125 mi. trip.Just dont leave it over nite ,or extended time in the sun.Bet your shop might even gine you a little of it,happy motoring,later,BO
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Because fast enough...never is!!! |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 16
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I'd be as little afraid of the bra as it is not really tight and a little movement and a little dust and I'd guess you'd have rub marks.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: n. alabama-heart of dixie
Posts: 209
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I'm sorry,i was talking about the crash wrap.The ''bra ''idea,is OUT!sorry.Those things will rub right through the paint.If it were my car,after consulting my painter,I'd put two or three really good coates of wax[carnuba]It'll keep bugs and stuff from sticking,washing off easily.You might even leave the wax on ,just around the front.just put on a good coat and dont rub it off,till you stop.Make sure the wax you use for this isnt the kind that gets real hard.Cheap-o wax is usally real thin,and rubs off easily.
You could try that,i'd still call my painter.He's the one who knows what kind of paint it is,and how long it should cure.Hope this helps,i'll be glad to answer other Q"s,later,BO
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Because fast enough...never is!!! |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 16
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Here's a picture of our "67 442. First car we bought when we got married in 1968. Gave $1900 for it then. My neighbor and I did it in the garage, paint and all. Took two years for the body. Did the drivetrain the year before. http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt357/tecar442/9.jpg
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: n. alabama-heart of dixie
Posts: 209
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Sharp car!! Well worth protecting,but if you built it to be a driver expect a rock chip fromm time to time.I say, touch it up, and enjoy the car.later,BO
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Because fast enough...never is!!! |
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