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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 68
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Hi.
I have a couple of studs to replace on my rear wheels (drums). Should I be able to bang these back thru with a hammer? I've already tried a few wacks without success. And if necessary, how do I pull off the flange the bolts are running thru? Thanks.
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1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 336
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drill them out, cut off flush and start with smaller bit and work your way up. Drill until there is nothing but a thin wall left of the stud and then
knock them out. Don't drill all the way through you want to have support to bang on with a drift that will fit inside the hollowed out stud. It will take no effort at all to knock out at this point. No chance of damaging or bending anything
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http://motorhead43026.tripod.com/two...vorite_things/ 68 442, original engine and 4-speed transmission (Nasty) 69 Cougar 33,000 original miles (Nice) 2003 Honda Accord boring,anemic,dependable (Ho Hum) "No matter how fast I go, I still can't pass that gas station." "If you are an engineer by trade all things are not black or white, live a little and step into the gray area" Last edited by Nilsson; September 26th, 2009 at 04:25 PM.. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 68
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I finally got them; took some muscle power to hammer them thru. And, I made sure not to damage the brake parts.
Next step is "pulling" the new studs thru once the knurl edges are lined up. First one looked good and straight.
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1970 Cutlass Supreme convertible Last edited by stlbluesbrother; September 26th, 2009 at 11:41 AM.. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 453
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An open nut and some flat wahers work wonders for seating new studs.
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Randy 1970 442 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,396
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You hammered the studs while on the axle flange?
![]() Probably not the best method. You've run the risk of bending the axle flange and/or damaging the wheel bearing, unfortunately. At a minimum, get a dial indicator and verify that the flange isn't bent. For future reference, the correct way to change rear studs is to either pull the axle shaft and use a press or use a C-clamp with a socket on the backside to push the stud out. There is a Kent-Moore tool that does exactly this.
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Joe Padavano 64 Jetstar 88 Conv 66 442 L-69 Conv 68 W-30 69 H/O 69 442 70 W-30 72 442 84 Custom Cruiser 86 Caprice wagon (w/307 Olds) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 453
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Joe you just spit out some of the most common sense things. Man that would never have dawned on me, but it makes perfect sense.
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Randy 1970 442 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 68
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The muscle power I mentioned was a bit of an exaggeration, but Joe's advice is well received. Fortunately, no damage was made to the axle flange as the drum fit perfectly over the studs and flush with the flange.
My collection of tools is definitely going to expand the more I learn (in advance) and absorb from this forum. A torque wrench is at the top of the list.
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