Disc conversion
January 23rd, 2009, 12:37 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 78
Disc conversion
I just recently got my 1968 Olds Cutlass S back after being away from her for the past 9 years. I am looking at replacing the front drums w/ ad disc conversion. I've noticed the prices for a complete new kit to be a little pricey. Is it worth spending that kind of money on a new kit or can I get the same performance with a little more blood, sweat and tears find used parts for such a project? And what other vehicles out there might bolt up to my '68 if I find something in the junkyard? Thanks for all your help.
January 23rd, 2009, 01:11 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dallas
Posts: 651
I thought it was worth it, only because i did not want it to take a year finding parts here and there, shipping, or spending days milling in a bone yard. Then you need some new parts: bearings, rotors, MS, lines to fit, etc... Your year kit might come with brake lines from MS to old lines, but ask before you buy. Or you can bend your own... This is day'sha-voo... You will probable find some good used and go with that. I did not wait $599 shipped with braided lines and slotted rotors.
January 23rd, 2009, 03:02 PM
#4
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
I just recently got my 1968 Olds Cutlass S back after being away from her for the past 9 years. I am looking at replacing the front drums w/ ad disc conversion. I've noticed the prices for a complete new kit to be a little pricey. Is it worth spending that kind of money on a new kit or can I get the same performance with a little more blood, sweat and tears find used parts for such a project? And what other vehicles out there might bolt up to my '68 if I find something in the junkyard? Thanks for all your help.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...sk-brakes.html
February 17th, 2010, 09:29 PM
#6
Just A BaBy {:
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: hobart,IN
Posts: 420
well just wanted to know If there was any way to change my 1984 hurts/Olds drums to disk in the rear?
found this on line but i don't know
http://www.performanceonline.com/sto...27&cat=0&page=
found this on line but i don't know
http://www.performanceonline.com/sto...27&cat=0&page=
February 18th, 2010, 04:42 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 172
I did a 4-wheel conversion on mine and it was totally worth it! The booster, proportioning valve, lines, E-brake cables, spindles, and calipers in the kit all bolted right up to the factory spots. I got my brakes from MBM brakes.
If you do the rear you will have to pull the spider gears and axles to remove the bracketing for the prop valves on the drums. This is where you end up mounting the new caliper brackets. You will also have to weld on the new brackets to the rearend for the soft lines to hook in to the factory hardlines. This will also require a little bit of cutting on the hardlines and re-flaring of the tubes. In all honest, you could get the whole job done in less than a day if you have access to a lift.
In terms of performance; MUCH better! The drums felt like I had to plan how far back I was going to hit the brakes, but the disks have a good grab and never give me any problems. They're not slotted rotors or fancy calipers, but they work just fine!
If you do the rear you will have to pull the spider gears and axles to remove the bracketing for the prop valves on the drums. This is where you end up mounting the new caliper brackets. You will also have to weld on the new brackets to the rearend for the soft lines to hook in to the factory hardlines. This will also require a little bit of cutting on the hardlines and re-flaring of the tubes. In all honest, you could get the whole job done in less than a day if you have access to a lift.
In terms of performance; MUCH better! The drums felt like I had to plan how far back I was going to hit the brakes, but the disks have a good grab and never give me any problems. They're not slotted rotors or fancy calipers, but they work just fine!
February 18th, 2010, 05:53 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 901
I too, am looking to convert my car - Delta 88 (B body) to power front disc brakes.
I believe that I can purchase the needed items, off-the-shelf, but I don't know
the part numbers, etc. I've asked around to a few mechanics.
They say it can be done.
What are the exact parts I need? I would like someone to give me the part numbers!
Could you take a minute or two and give me the part numbers?
Your help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for your help, and Thanks for this great forum!
Jaybird
I believe that I can purchase the needed items, off-the-shelf, but I don't know
the part numbers, etc. I've asked around to a few mechanics.
They say it can be done.
What are the exact parts I need? I would like someone to give me the part numbers!
Could you take a minute or two and give me the part numbers?
Your help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for your help, and Thanks for this great forum!
Jaybird
February 18th, 2010, 06:38 PM
#10
Just A BaBy {:
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: hobart,IN
Posts: 420
I did a 4-wheel conversion on mine and it was totally worth it! The booster, proportioning valve, lines, E-brake cables, spindles, and calipers in the kit all bolted right up to the factory spots. I got my brakes from MBM brakes.
If you do the rear you will have to pull the spider gears and axles to remove the bracketing for the prop valves on the drums. This is where you end up mounting the new caliper brackets. You will also have to weld on the new brackets to the rearend for the soft lines to hook in to the factory hardlines. This will also require a little bit of cutting on the hardlines and re-flaring of the tubes. In all honest, you could get the whole job done in less than a day if you have access to a lift.
In terms of performance; MUCH better! The drums felt like I had to plan how far back I was going to hit the brakes, but the disks have a good grab and never give me any problems. They're not slotted rotors or fancy calipers, but they work just fine!
If you do the rear you will have to pull the spider gears and axles to remove the bracketing for the prop valves on the drums. This is where you end up mounting the new caliper brackets. You will also have to weld on the new brackets to the rearend for the soft lines to hook in to the factory hardlines. This will also require a little bit of cutting on the hardlines and re-flaring of the tubes. In all honest, you could get the whole job done in less than a day if you have access to a lift.
In terms of performance; MUCH better! The drums felt like I had to plan how far back I was going to hit the brakes, but the disks have a good grab and never give me any problems. They're not slotted rotors or fancy calipers, but they work just fine!
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