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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
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Body Guys What do you think????
Here is my new purchase - 1970 cutlass s - all original. The rear of the car has rust in the quarters especially around the lips of the wheel wells.
What would you do here? How would you get after these area? Is it repairable? Or should new quarters be hung? Let me know what you think? Thanks Doug |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 32
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Doug, I am going through a restoration right now. It would be best to replace the quarters if possible. If you have rust on the wheel lips, and the rear there is probably alot more underneath. Just my opinion, let's see what else is out there.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 142
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I had ended up replacing my quarter panels also. I agree that if the wheel lips have rust on them your are probably going to have to replace the outer wheel well housings also. Another thing that I found was that I had to replace the trunk drop downs also because they were rusty also. the only way you are going to rid yourself of the rust is to cut off whatever is rusty and replace with new metal,at the time I replace my quarters there were no lower patch panel and I am not certain they are not reproducing them now.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,174
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Quote:
I replied to your other thread about when you just bought this. I also have been through this kind of pain. The pics you put up on this one are way more revealing than the other thread. Gotta agree with Cutlassjoe, I would go with new quarter panels. If the other side is like this, do them both. Be prepared to have to do trunk floors and rebuild parts of the wheel liner. If it's this bad where you can see it (and I hate to say this), how is the floor under the rug? Also check for rust bubbles under the vinyl (which looks to be in remarkably good shape) and water marks inside the rear deck or front cowl area. Once you start looking, it seems like it never stops. Front fenders? They usually rust out at the bottom behind the wheel - to the end of the panel. Most of the time caused by leaves and crud blocking the water escape channel. You are taking on a monster challenge my friend.
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Allan R |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
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How hard are the outer wheel houses?? Take the qtr off and see whats there?
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#6 (permalink) |
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Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 142
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not easy to replace if you are not familiar with body work. you going to have to weld or spot weld(the wheel housing) and butt weld the quarters.you are going to need a body saw or a cut off the remove the quarters.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 2,256
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Doug, what's your location? I have a 1972 parts car with clean rear quarter panels. But shipping the whole quarter plus inner wheel housing would be difficult and expensive. John
__________________
1964 Cutlass Factory 4spd 1965 442 4spd 1967 442 Auto 1967 Cutlass Convertible 1967 Cutlass four door daily driver 1968 442 Auto 1969 442 W30 Auto 1970 442 4spd 1971 Cutlass Flat Top Wagon 1973 Che*vy 3/4 Ton 454/TH400 Tow Vehicle Only the tow vehicle is finished! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
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I am in the home of OLDSMOBILE Lansing MI. any chance of cutting out just what is needed??? or would it be easier to cut the whole things? What do you need for them?
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 32
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 204
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I suggest taking a hard look at the following:
1. Front cowl - A bodies tend to rust out here, and the repairs can be extensive. 2. Vinyl roof - They tend to trap moisture, and rust the roof out. 3. Rear window channel - See 1 & 2 above 4. Body mounts - If the car is rusty on the surface, then there is a good chance that the body mounts may be rotted. 5. Frame - Look closely at the frame, especially under the cowl. Your car looks to be fairly rusty. Unless you are qualified to do panel replacement, the body work cost could be substantial. It is always better to start with the best body and frame that you can, as these are the most expensive areas to repair. I would suggest that if your car has substantial rust, you may want to start with a better car. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 142
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 32
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Quote:
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 63
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Yeah, when I cut off my quarters I also had to replace the outer wheel housings and the trunk drop offs. I purchased the drop offs from the parts place. They actually fit pretty good. X2 on the cowl area. Especially at the bottoms where the water drains out. Hard to see without pulling a fender or fenderwell.
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 32
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Quote:
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 204
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I don't know where you are located, but I believe that the going labor rate for a good body shop that can handle the type of metal working you need is about $85 per hour.
The labor to replace a quarter panel, trunk drop off, and associated work is probably 40 hours. 40 x $85 is $3400. Do both sides = $6800 And, you still have to paint the car. You could easily be looking at $10,000 in body work. That is why anyone in this hobby who cannot do this type of work needs to buy a car with a clean body and frame. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
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Thanks for all the repsonses guys! I'm going to go for it. It will be a long term project but a fun one. The floors are in pretty good shape, cowl looks good frame mounts good, trunk solid, the rears are biggest deal and I will try and get someone to do the replacing. The rest I can and will do! Interior is mint, Let the fun begin
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