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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 36
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Slam the doors
I recently replaced all the weather proof seals around doors. It now seems alittle harder to close them. Has anybody ran into this and how long would it take to ease up a bit. On a side note I have broken an arm rest slamming the door- are arm rests interchangable from 2 doors to 4 ? and what years will work ? thanks- it was the front one that came off.
68 cutlass 4 door
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,916
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Quote:
It will take a week or so withthe doors fully closed for the new seals to "mush down" to where it will be much easier to close the doors. After another couple weeks, "normalness" should set in. If the old stripping was really bad (like an old Ford I did) then it may ALWAYS be a LITTLE harder to close, just because something is there. Having all the windows up will also cause lots of air pressure built up in a well sealed car. Check your rear quarter vents (rear of rear door opening) to make sure they are not blocked. Avoid slamming doors and trunk excessively hard, as the air pressure can easily blow your rear deck speaker cones (if any). ![]() Hopefully someone could educate us on the door pull interchangability...
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-Rob Young 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...) http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/ 1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine" 1978 Ford (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" 1997 Cadillac STS (for sale - too many cars!) 1999 Harley Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine" Last edited by Lady72nRob71; March 2nd, 2009 at 06:22 AM.. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 36
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reply
Thanks for the quick response- its been a month or so so it looks like there going to be hard forever. There was little to none seals before so that maybe the cause- Im always closing them through window now.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,916
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Huh??
![]() Please explain. ![]() Well, give a while longer. Colder weather might make them take longer to mush and stay mushed... ![]() You were so used to having nothing there, too, just like on my old Ford. It has been 3 weeks and the door is still quite tight. So I am not to surprised to hear about yours talking a month. I remember my mom's 86 4-dr had doors that you pretty much had to slam. Even after 15 years, it was like that. The smaller doors on the 4-dr have less moving momentum than my car's big doors so it will feel more evident then, too. New cars have thinner weatherstrip and ifferent latches that make them close easier with less slamming. Of course that means not as solidly IMHO. What brand seals did you use? BTW, that is a very cool looking 4-dr - post a bigger picture some time. The color and the wheels stand out!
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-Rob Young 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...) http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/ 1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine" 1978 Ford (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" 1997 Cadillac STS (for sale - too many cars!) 1999 Harley Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine" Last edited by Lady72nRob71; March 2nd, 2009 at 12:47 PM.. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Certified Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Too close to Toronto!!
Posts: 567
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Two and four door arm rests are the same except for Supremes, which are four or five inches longer...so we won't be using those will we??? Vista arm rests are thinner..like about two inches compared to Cutlass which are about three inches or so...When you have a lot of cars you get to notice these differences...
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 36
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reply
By through the window I mean just grabbing door with window all the way down. Thanks for the arm rest info too. Ive found a set for a 2 door that will work for my fronts but looks like the rears are different in the 2 door. Do the supremes use same screw holes to mount there arm rest ? Thanks again
Heres a bigger pic
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#7 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 3,445
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How do you open the doors
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Pat 1957 Super 88 with a 455 1948 2dr series 76 with a 455 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 36
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re
Front 2 are on poppers with keyless entry- back two only from the handle inside. I have had to duke it before when the battery goes dead- dash lights are always on- think its a bad switch from reading up on ( the very helpful ) forums here- plus a pain to swap out so I might be putting a switch in the grey wire back there.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 3,445
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Did you do the install yourself? My 48 Olds is shaved and has bearclaw latches and I plan on going the keyless route any advice or insight would be helpful
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Pat 1957 Super 88 with a 455 1948 2dr series 76 with a 455 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 36
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re:
No I pretty much got the car how it is. I did have the poppers replaced - one of the push rods broke and they beefd up the springs in them. My remote box has just gone bad actually- doors popping all of a sudden down highway was a little bit of a shock. Anytime car was on they would keep popping till the door started smoking. I found the problem and its seems almost to be a piece of an alarm equipment - nobody can seem to identify it- I dont have an alarm installed but they might have tied into a system at some time. I would like to go down that route again and get somebody to run all the wires correctly uderdash as its a bit sloppy. I think tho for now Ill get a keyless entry system put in and tie in the trunk to pop off remote- alot cheaper than the alarm quotes Ive gotten. Maybe Ill give it a shot myself but right now I just use the buttons in the doors to open- few other things to fix before them.
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#11 (permalink) |
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2 '66 98's
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: central New Jersey
Posts: 170
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I recently replaced all the weather proof seals around doors. It now seems a little harder to close them. Has anybody ran into this and how long would it take to ease up a bit.
What brand door seals did you install?? I find that to be a common problem with Softseal. I find Metro to be a lot more satisfactory, especially the trunk seal. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 36
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re:
It was metro - looks great and went in perfect - your right about the trunk, doesnt have door problem. I wonder if my latches have anything to do with it. What are bear claw latches ? are my latches aftermarket to work with the poppers ?
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 835
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In one of the muscle car magazines, they discuss weatherstipping and how it is not the same as was originally was on the car. In essence, it's "too big" and doesn't allow the door to shut properly. One such method they suggested was prior to the door panels being installed and removing the door strike. They said to use a tie-down strapand securely tie it around the inside of the door--where it might not bend. Then attach the other end of the strap to somewhere secure on the car, close the door, and tighten down the strap. In essence, the strap is to provide constant "tight" pressure on the seal to collapse them further down than might happen when the door is closed with the door strike in place.
Said it works perfectly and should have no problems closing your doors. I plan on attempting this method after I install my new seal kit.
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1968 Olds 442 Sports Coupe 4-speed/bench seat |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 3,445
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The bearclaw latches are an upgrade from the old 48 year latches. Same as the latches on mid 50's and up cars
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Pat 1957 Super 88 with a 455 1948 2dr series 76 with a 455 |
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