I need to change the timing chain on my 425 any special tools i might need to do this project and a guesstamate on how long it will take. thanks for any info. PS my engine has a D after the block # is that a good block?

 

The very first tool you should buy is a Chassis Service Manual. Don't waste your money on a Chiltons/Haynes, get a real Olds CSM.

 

Where do I find one and thanks

 

If you'll do a quick seach on evil bay, you might find one. I second the opinion, the factoy manual is a valuble resource.

I prefer the original printed ones, but digital disc versions are available too on many models.

edit As to your original question, it might take 2-4 hrs. It depends on your knowledge level. The timing cover can be a pain to re-install for some. The oil pan makes it a tight fit, sometimes the first few bolts can be loosend on the pan.

The only special tool I can think of is a balancer puller. Not just any 3 jaw puller either. The balancer bolt should be 1 1/8" so make sure you got a socket that big. It's also a great time to replace belts and radiator hoses, since they will be coming off.

 

You may also need an installation tool for your balancer.

It may take a first timer a little longer than 4hours... but it's not to big of a job.

I hope the marks on the new chain and sprockets are right on. I don't trust em any more.

 

4 hours to pull engine,pull pan then the cover and do the chain? Yes I know you don't have to pull the pan but the cover is a pain to reinstall with pan in place. Yes, just loosen the bolts and pry but the chances of a leak just went up. just my opinion.

 

You can leave the water pump on the front cover. You have to unbolt and pull out the fuel pump. Need to find a way to block the engine fron turning, either at the flywheel or using 2 pulley bolt positions on the damper. The 1-1/8" bolt (3/4 fine thread) holding the damper is torqued to 160 ft lb. Sometimes the crank gear is tight and you might need to pry it or use a 2 or 3 jaw puller. 65 ft lb on the cam bolt. Unless the old seal to the oil pan is very hard and brittle, reuse it with RTV to aid in sealing. You can pry the front cover off with a stiff putty knife and not disturb the sealing of the oil pan to the block. I recommend a new front cover gasket and seal. You can get a roller chain or at a minimum get a stock chain with iron gears, not the nylon toothed aluminum cam gear.

 

Filing a slight bevel on the lower side of the timing cover dowel pins makes installation of the timing cover a LOT easier (with the pan in place.) It's in the CSM, too. . .

 

Any suggestions on a timing chain brand I found a roller chain set at rock for 38.00 sounds to cheapbut don't have any idea thanks for all the info.

 

I have heard very good things about Cloyes.

 

Go with the "Cloyes" you can't go wrong. The cheaper ones never degree in, making the timming off as much as 10*. Stick with the "Cloyes"

Gene

 

also, use a soft-setting sealer like permatex gasket adhesive(not rtv) or permatex av gasket cement on the inside of the balancer hub before re-installing the balancer(you only need a very thin coat). this prevents oil seepage between the crank and balancer. your balancer may have a groove worn into it from the oil seal-this can be sleeved. since you're into it this far, you might as well replace the front cover seal. the hub to crank bolt torque is 180 ft/lbs. minimum and i use blue loctite too. i use my buddy's 3/4" drive torque wrench and set the bolt to 250 ft/lbs; but i like a little over-kill. a decent impact gun will zip it right off again, a year later, even with the loctite. remember, loctite doesn't do anything on unclean threads, so clean those threads, the bolt and inside the crank snout. don't forget the timing indicator!


and yes, a d block is good!

bill