New Life for a 455

[O's_Car]

Yesterday was a happy day for me: I picked up a 455 BBO. It came out of a ’75 Delta 88 with just over 100k miles, and came with all the accessories and brackets (see pictures below). It was already removed from the car, but the seller was able to start it up and run it for a short time on the hoist: ran smooth with no obvious issues. It’s an “Fa” block with “J” heads (yeah, I know…); the VIN derivative stamping reads 35M######. Couldn’t get the TH400 that was mated to it – that was already spoken for. Should make for a good rebuild project: nothing extreme, just “spirited” street use. My current plan is to swap it for the 350 SBO in my ’70 Cutlass S, but that’s subject to change. I’ll be posting lots of questions in the near future, but today I wanted to share the joy!

[csstrux]

Is that crank bored for a manual? kewwell!

[Run to Rund]

does the block has the boss for a clutch z bar? If you are going automatic, it doesn't matter. J heads aren't great, but are serviceable and can be ported. These engines are getting hard to find, so it was a good day for you.

[Chaney3000]

Great pick up. Keep us posted on the progress.

[O's_Car]

To answer the questions above, yes the crank end is bored but there isn’t a snap ring groove like is shown in the shop manual. As for the clutch z-bar boss, I’m a novice at this so I don’t know where it’s located or what it looks like (didn’t find it in the shop manual). The engine will be used with an automatic trans, so I guess I’m ok for now…

I’ve already got a ton of questions about the various emission/combustion systems on this engine and what happens to them if I install aftermarket parts (like a new intake, carb, headers, or cylinder heads). This thing’s got vacuum lines all over the place, EGR components, multiple PCV lines, a hot air duct between the exhaust and the air cleaner, plus other unknown hoses and lines that were just snipped off when the previous owner pulled it from his car. I’m going to spend some time with the shop manual to figure out what these things are, then I’ll be back with some (hopefully) intelligent questions.

[O's_Car]

After 10 months of delays, I finally got to work on this 455. Spent the last few days tearing it down, taking lots of pictures along the way and documenting every last piece. The biggest difficulties so far were getting the exhaust pipes off (flange bolts are stuck tight in the manifolds, bolt heads are rounded over) and getting the oil filler tube off (twisted it out with a pipe wrench). Here are a few of pictures of where I'm at today.

I'll update as I move along, and I'll have some questions for the experts too...

[Oldsguy]

Wow. A long wait! I bet it is worth it though. Congratulations on getting into it finally!

[J-(Chicago)]

Best way to get a filler tube out is to tap it left and right with a wooden mallet a few times. Should loosen right up.

[O's_Car]

Got the cylinder heads off today. Pretty grimey in there; lots of deposits on the valves as well. Some of the pistons were a bit oily on top - wonder if the engine was burning a little oil in its final days? Looks like coolant was leaking into #1 cylinder (hope it's just the gasket...).

[svnt442]

Good deal man. Gotta love those soup bowl pistons.

Have fun with it. As far as all the vacuum line that are on it go you probably won't need most of them. Ditch the EGR. Are you hooking up the TCS? If so then you need a 70 shop manual (or have someone with access to one ) for reference pics.

If yes to the TCS then you'll need a working vacuum T for it. The one from the 350 (if it works) should swap over.
You'll find that the dist vacuum should be routed there per the manual.

You don't need to run the TCS. I'd guess that most guys don't. It just all depends.

[O's_Car]

After searching thru many threads on this site and seeing what others have done, I concluded I could eliminate much of the "excess plumbing" that was on this engine. I'm still documenting everything and saving all the pieces just in case, but I'll be taking a minimalist approach with the rebuild.

I actually bought 2 shop manuals: a '70 for the original car/engine and a '75 for the 455 (the latter really helped me identify all that plumbing). Best money I've spent on this project was those books (along with the body and assembly manuals).

[citcapp]

Research your machine shops and find a good one, its key to getting a good rebuild. Keep us posted on your build.

Are you going to upgrade the engine with new higher compression pistons (if you have to have it bored), different cam, intake, carb, head work? Just curious

[O's_Car]

I've been checking out machine shops here in Wichita - they all have limited experience with Oldsmobiles, but a few come recommended by fellow car guys. I'll coordinate with the shop to finalize the configuration, but I was planning on improving everything including pistons, cam, intake, heads, headers, etc. It's probably overkill for my purposes, but I've got my heart set on Edelbrock heads and intake.

I found something interesting today as I continued the teardown. I noticed that the lifters were not centered on the cam lobes, they were all riding a little forward of center. I grabbed the timing gear and gave it a little tug - the camshaft has about 3/16 inch play fore-aft! If I pull it forward about half that amount the lobes fall right in line with the lifters. I'll have to see how to eliminate that on the rebuild.

There was a little bit of coolant in the oil pan when I removed it, maybe that jives with the apparent leak in #1 cylinder I mentioned earlier. Again, I hope it's just the gasket...

[citcapp]

Check out my build thread, I used the edelbrock heads, performer manifold, keith black pistons, cat rods. comp cam roller cam, lifters, rockers. Very fast and runs on pump 95 octane gas

http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...gine-swap.html

[O's_Car]

I finally got the engine disassembled. Didn't have any real difficulties and didn't find any issues except what I noted earlier. The bearing surfaces and cylinder walls all looked decent (no scoring). I'll definitely be getting new pistons: I didn't catch the first one when I pushed it out of the block - it fell to the ground and broke the skirt tab off! No big loss, I was planning on higher CR pistons anyway.

There are a few details I'd like some help with before I move on:

1) Should I remove the cam bearings from the block (and how), or can I leave that for the machine shop? I plan on having them install new cam bearings.

2) I want to remove all the oil gallery plugs before sending the block to the shop. The rear plug with the drilled pin-hole is located behind a pressed-in cap - how do I get that out?

3) I plan on having the block decks surfaced (measured +/-0.025" clearance at all 8 pistons), but those head alignment dowels are in the way. Should I remove them (and how), or should I leave that for the machine shop?

4) There are alignment dowels on the front face of the block (at the timing cover interface). Can those be left in place or should they be removed before going to the shop? Same question for the threaded stud used to attach the fuel pump.

5) How do I get that oil dipstick guide tube out of the block? It looks like I'll crush it if I try to pull it out with pliers or push it through with a hammer.

I'd like to know how other folks have dealt with these details.

[citcapp]

My 2 cents. Let the machine shop do 1 through 5. Thats what I did with mine. Unless you have all of the right tools its just as easy to let the machine shop install the new cam bearings and gallery plugs. The rest you can do yourself if you like or have them install and degree the cam as well.

[O's_Car]

Thanks for the input Pat. I definitely don't have all the tools so I was hoping to let the machine shop handle those details. Just looking for a little confirmation I guess. Thanks also for the reference to your previous build thread. Good info there, especially the summary build sheet. Gives me things to think about...

For what it's worth, I did get the dipstick guide tube out - just used a rubber mallet and a block of wood to tap it out of it's hole. A shot of WD-40 in the hole the night before seemed to loosen it up.

Time to go visit with my local machinist and see if he's worthy of an Oldsmobile!

[O's_Car]

Took the engine to the machine shop today! Block, heads, intake, crank, pistons, it's all there. Found a place that's worked on Oldsmobiles and seems willing to work with me on the details. Don't yet know how long the work will take or what it will cost, but at least I'm on their to-do list. Will be going back soon to work out all the details and get a cost estimate.

[442_Mustang]

Congrats on the sweet score. I 'm into reading about the engine builds. When you fire it for the first time, My advice is to have it dynoed. I had my last engine dynoed and I'd never break one in in the car again. They set the timing, jet it, curve the distributor, and will experiment with carbs and spacers for you. I installed mine in my car knowing it don't leak, runs great, and the only thing I had to do was adjust the idle. Well worth the 250.00. Just my opinion.