Keepin' Your Dipstick Tube In

[Mongoose]

Ok.... stop your laughing... and get your mind straight!

As we all know, you have to remove the dipstick tube to install and remove headers on a 455 (and I'm sure all the other "modern-era" Olds V-8's).

I had found that if you seat the tube all the way in the "tube boss", that trying to extract it again was the equivalent of removing a gasket... throw it away and replace it with a new one. So I would typically just tap it in lightly enough to hold, but in variably it would come loose the first time I'd check the oil level.

Soon the tube would become bent, and because I run a full length windage tray, I would start having troubles getting it positioned right so that I could slide the stick back in (hush!) without it hitting the tray or a crank journal.

So while I'm in the process of freshening up the motor, and its on the stand, I thought that maybe I could drill and tap a small hole near the top of the dip stick boss, and use a set screw to wedge the tube in place. I could then "clearance" the bubble on the tube that is designed to hold the tube in the boss, and then when I need to remove the tube, simply turn the set screw a couple times. And the rest of the time, the set screw will hold the tube firmly in place, so I'm not scared to pull the stick out for fear I can't put it back in again. (ok... go ahead and laugh... that parts funny).

Thoughts?

[Bluevista]

Sounds good to me.
I hate when my dipstick tube comes out and the fear of not being to be able to get it back in.

[jpaulwhite]

I just ordered 2 billet handle dipsticks off ebay for 20 something bucks shipped. I'm buttoning up my bottom end as we speak.

[84 rocket]

clean the hole and the dipstick tube and use a light coat of proseal it works everytime

[Mongoose]

Pro-Seal will hold the dipstick in place, but still allow me to remove it without causing damage to it? From what I see online, Pro-seal is only good up to 220 degrees F, which doesn't seem like enough of a buffer.

[Blk71SX]

I certainly don't want to hijack this thread especially this being my first post but I have a problem with the dipstick tube of my 455 Cutlass. The tube was loose from the day I bought it 17 years ago. No doubt someone got physical with the tube when the headers were installed and partially broke it. It finally broke completely off, leaving the bottom end in the block. I'm replacing the ever leaking headers with cast iron manifolds and figured this would be the time to fix the tube.

Can the portion of the tube still in the block be driven into the crankcase or is there an obstruction prohibiting this?

[84 rocket]

pro seal will work your block at most should only get 190 so that buffer is ok ....now if the dipstick was on the head no it prob wouldnt as the head sees more heat than the block.. trust me it works all the time when customers are to cheep to buy a new dipsticktube !!!! edit yeah i should have said you would clean the tube and around the hole then right as it gets ready to seat put alittle on the tube and alittle on the block but not any in the hole lol ok that last part sounded like a dirty letter

[84 rocket]

Originally Posted by Blk71SX

I certainly don't want to hijack this thread especially this being my first post but I have a problem with the dipstick tube of my 455 Cutlass. The tube was loose from the day I bought it 17 years ago. No doubt someone got physical with the tube when the headers were installed and partially broke it. It finally broke completely off, leaving the bottom end in the block. I'm replacing the ever leaking headers with cast iron manifolds and figured this would be the time to fix the tube.

Can the portion of the tube still in the block be driven into the crankcase or is there an obstruction prohibiting this?

yeah the crank and a pan baffle maybe a crank scraper to drive it throgh your gonna need to remove the pan and see whats up.. you might be able to use a dent puller and a machine thred in it the size of the tube screw it in and pull it out but it may not work and will prob make slivers that would fall into the oil

[Mongoose]

It's a simple operation with the motor on an engine stand.

Drilled and tapped a small whole near the top of the dipstick "boss". The cast iron was very easy to drill. 5/32" hole for a 3/16" tap I believe.

I lightly "clearenced" the bulges on the tube so that it fit snuggly in the block (but would remove without having to tug at all), inserted a 3/16" stainless steel set screw in the whole, and voila! The tube holds firm.

Once the motor's back in the car, the headers are installed, and I'm ready to put the dipstick tube in, I'll add a little bit of Permaxtex "Blue" to the threads of the set screw, and lightly set it into place. I guess for a little insurance to prevent leakage from blow-by, I could put a little RTV around the tube shaft before I put it in.

[69Cutlass455]

Now thats using your dipstick Jimmy!!!! sounds like a good idea with the set screw I think I have the problem the other guy does my tube comes out every time I check the oil always fun to try to put back in don't forget the starter cable is close for that shocking experience

[Yellowstatue]

I use a metal clip around the tube and fastened to the nearest manifold bolt in the neighbourhood