Dream Car Going Bad

Dredawg10 · January 27th, 2007, 09:35 PM

Long story short, my 1996 Aurora is stalling when stopped in gear. I can drive the car, when at lights I pull the gear to neutral and provide a little gas and she runs, but if I just cover the brake once stopped, it will quietly shut off 3 out of 5 times at the light. To date, I have changed the plugs, wires, water pump, injector fuses, relay fuse, fuel pump relay, Idle Air Control, Fuel Assembly unit, and had the throttle body cleaned and still, the same problem. 3 different dealerships have taken a shot at the problem with a nice hourly charge, but the same result, stops when stopped. What ever the problem is, the vehicle will now shut off in park if running long enough. Can not solve this, and it is becoming a problem to throw this car in neutral and provide gas all the time. Please provide some of your Olds knowledge to this riddle. dredawg10@yahoo.com:

Redog · January 27th, 2007, 10:45 PM

Does it acting like a stick when stopping? If so, Tranny soilnoid is staying stuck open. If the car has a plug in the tranny for that, unplug it.

Had that problem on a 93 Cavalier wagon, worked fine after I unpluged it

Dredawg10 · January 28th, 2007, 08:05 AM

Not at all, the vehicle stops rather smoothly, but while sitting at the light waiting for the green light, the vehicle will smoothly shut off, as a matter of fact, when it shuts of, it is truly unnoticeable, you don't realize it is off until you press the pedal.

Oldsmaniac · January 28th, 2007, 09:31 AM

I will direct you to another shop for repair. These new vehicles are really a crap shoot when it comes to diagnostics. The shop that you use must want to do the work as opposed to a dealer who is not that enthusiastic since it isnt a car gotten from them. State of the art equipment and scan tools will be necessary to troubleshoot. Just replacing parts on a whim gets expensive and frustrating...Ive been there before. The trouble could be most anything from vacuum leaks, fuel trouble, sensor trouble, egr trouble, etc, etc, etc....so yes, a good shop is the only way I would go about repairs if it were my car....Good Luck.

Dredawg10 · January 28th, 2007, 02:47 PM

Thanks for the reply, but when it comes to automobile shop selection, we are very limited in Middle Georgia. Additionally, do I look for an electrical shop or should I continue working with dealership repair shops? I can not see either way being inexpensive, I just want to get to the root of this situation. Thanks.

Oldsmaniac · January 29th, 2007, 04:48 PM

Sorry to hear there arent many repair shops around so the dealer may be the best choice....Dont they make good on their work......Why should you pay for repairs that dont fix the problem?? You need to find a shop with code readers and computerized diagnostics.....If an electrical specialty shop has that they may be able to help you. The trouble you have could also be battery/electrical in nature as well. The computer in the car needs full voltage to operate. Ive heard of newer cars cranking but not starting due to a weak battery....not like the old days when cranking was everything.

duckblaster67 · January 29th, 2007, 06:34 PM

It sounds like it may be carbon stuck in the EGR valve??? Does it smell like it's running rich? Does your "check engine" light come on? If so, you can pull the EGR valve off yourself and take a screw driver, pick, etc. and push in on the valve knocking the carbon loose. Shake it out and check the manifold for more loose pieces, maybe take an air chuck and blow it out for good measure. Then simply replace it and your light should eventually go out to unless it hasn't came on yet. It sounds a lot like my 95 Blazer. I have to do this at least 3 or 4 times a year!

d14u2nv7 · May 13th, 2007, 09:28 AM

hey same exact problem i had with my 95. run a fuel pressure test on it. if the pressure drops to nothing when you shut it off then either you have a leaky injector or a bad fuel pressure regulator. mine and most other have been the regulator and its 70 bucks at autozone. its a diy job takes 5 min to change.

GoodOldsGuy · July 22nd, 2008, 08:46 PM

I agree that you need to find a competent shop. Have you had a shop hook up a scan tool (OBD) to monitor what is going on? Is there a service engine lamp lit on the dash?
These cars are pretty technical. When they run correctly they are a dream to drive. When you have problems, you need a competent shop.

AutoZone will do a scan for you and tell you if you have any codes stored. That is a start. Nose around to see if you can also get the inside line on a competent GM dealer (preferrably a Cadillac dealer) as these Aurora's shared alot of diagnostics with Cadillac. Hope you find your problem.

Regards,

Fred

Dan Wirth · September 18th, 2009, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoodOldsGuy

Nose around to see if you can also get the inside line on a competent GM dealer (preferrably a Cadillac dealer) as these Aurora's shared alot of diagnostics with Cadillac. Hope you find your problem.

Regards,

Fred

----------------------------------------

Fred's right. The tools needed to service an Aurora properly are specific to the Cadillac engine (Northstar - at least this is the case for my 2001 Aurora). It is not unusual for a GM dealer to refer you to a Cadillac dealer if they do not have the right tools to service your car. You may want to question the dealer you are taking your car to about this and it may be worth the travel to find a reputable Cadillac shop elsewhere.

I have been fortunate in being able to find a reputable repair shop and master mechanic (who I admire) that is willing to work on my Aurora, However, my car has become a frustration to him, as it requires a high degree of knowledge specific to the car itself (along with the right tools). There are some things that I will still need to go to a Cadillac dealer with, which is expensive. Unfortunately, this is the reality of having an Aurora, which is considered to be a luxury car by most.

Good luck,
Dan

FATRATMATT · September 20th, 2009, 09:51 PM

For whats it worth, my wife had a 97 Cougar that would do the same thing. I went to Auto Zone and with a scanner they found a code for the Low Idle sensor. The sensor cost around 13 dollars and 1/2 hr to install. That was 30k miles ago and haven't had a problem since. Good luck to ya, hope this helps

44TEETWO · October 23rd, 2009, 04:26 PM

My 95 was the ECM. Changed it and all the problems went away! It's under the glove box and can be changed in about 10 minutes. Just make sure you unhook the battery before R&R

70 cutlass s · October 24th, 2009, 04:21 AM

Check the vacuum lines connectors if bad they may need to be replaced. The fuel pressure regulator runs on vacuum. You could have a small vacuum leak and the car still run smooth. Its worth a look.

January 27th, 2007, 09:35 PM	#1 (permalink)
Dredawg10 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 3	Dream Car Going Bad Long story short, my 1996 Aurora is stalling when stopped in gear. I can drive the car, when at lights I pull the gear to neutral and provide a little gas and she runs, but if I just cover the brake once stopped, it will quietly shut off 3 out of 5 times at the light. To date, I have changed the plugs, wires, water pump, injector fuses, relay fuse, fuel pump relay, Idle Air Control, Fuel Assembly unit, and had the throttle body cleaned and still, the same problem. 3 different dealerships have taken a shot at the problem with a nice hourly charge, but the same result, stops when stopped. What ever the problem is, the vehicle will now shut off in park if running long enough. Can not solve this, and it is becoming a problem to throw this car in neutral and provide gas all the time. Please provide some of your Olds knowledge to this riddle. dredawg10@yahoo.com:

January 27th, 2007, 10:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
Redog Alero Chapter Secretary Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Newtown, PA Posts: 1,144	Does it acting like a stick when stopping? If so, Tranny soilnoid is staying stuck open. If the car has a plug in the tranny for that, unplug it. Had that problem on a 93 Cavalier wagon, worked fine after I unpluged it __________________ Me 2000 Alero running 14's 2005 Nissan Altima (her's) 1967 Olds 330 motor sitting on a stand 1985 Delta 88 w/1968 350 rocket ( MURDERED )

January 28th, 2007, 02:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
Dredawg10 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 3	Dream Car Going Bad Thanks for the reply, but when it comes to automobile shop selection, we are very limited in Middle Georgia. Additionally, do I look for an electrical shop or should I continue working with dealership repair shops? I can not see either way being inexpensive, I just want to get to the root of this situation. Thanks.

July 22nd, 2008, 08:46 PM	#9 (permalink)
GoodOldsGuy Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cary, NC Posts: 110	I agree that you need to find a competent shop. Have you had a shop hook up a scan tool (OBD) to monitor what is going on? Is there a service engine lamp lit on the dash? These cars are pretty technical. When they run correctly they are a dream to drive. When you have problems, you need a competent shop. AutoZone will do a scan for you and tell you if you have any codes stored. That is a start. Nose around to see if you can also get the inside line on a competent GM dealer (preferrably a Cadillac dealer) as these Aurora's shared alot of diagnostics with Cadillac. Hope you find your problem. Regards, Fred __________________

September 20th, 2009, 09:51 PM	#11 (permalink)
FATRATMATT Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Port St Lucie Florida Posts: 134	For whats it worth, my wife had a 97 Cougar that would do the same thing. I went to Auto Zone and with a scanner they found a code for the Low Idle sensor. The sensor cost around 13 dollars and 1/2 hr to install. That was 30k miles ago and haven't had a problem since. Good luck to ya, hope this helps __________________ IT'S A DELMONT NOT A DELTA!

January 28th, 2007, 08:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
Dredawg10 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 3	Not at all, the vehicle stops rather smoothly, but while sitting at the light waiting for the green light, the vehicle will smoothly shut off, as a matter of fact, when it shuts of, it is truly unnoticeable, you don't realize it is off until you press the pedal.

January 28th, 2007, 09:31 AM	#4 (permalink)
Oldsmaniac Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: NJ Posts: 686	I will direct you to another shop for repair. These new vehicles are really a crap shoot when it comes to diagnostics. The shop that you use must want to do the work as opposed to a dealer who is not that enthusiastic since it isnt a car gotten from them. State of the art equipment and scan tools will be necessary to troubleshoot. Just replacing parts on a whim gets expensive and frustrating...Ive been there before. The trouble could be most anything from vacuum leaks, fuel trouble, sensor trouble, egr trouble, etc, etc, etc....so yes, a good shop is the only way I would go about repairs if it were my car....Good Luck.

January 29th, 2007, 04:48 PM	#6 (permalink)
Oldsmaniac Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: NJ Posts: 686	Sorry to hear there arent many repair shops around so the dealer may be the best choice....Dont they make good on their work......Why should you pay for repairs that dont fix the problem?? You need to find a shop with code readers and computerized diagnostics.....If an electrical specialty shop has that they may be able to help you. The trouble you have could also be battery/electrical in nature as well. The computer in the car needs full voltage to operate. Ive heard of newer cars cranking but not starting due to a weak battery....not like the old days when cranking was everything.

January 29th, 2007, 06:34 PM	#7 (permalink)
duckblaster67 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: South Dakota Posts: 22	It sounds like it may be carbon stuck in the EGR valve??? Does it smell like it's running rich? Does your "check engine" light come on? If so, you can pull the EGR valve off yourself and take a screw driver, pick, etc. and push in on the valve knocking the carbon loose. Shake it out and check the manifold for more loose pieces, maybe take an air chuck and blow it out for good measure. Then simply replace it and your light should eventually go out to unless it hasn't came on yet. It sounds a lot like my 95 Blazer. I have to do this at least 3 or 4 times a year!

May 13th, 2007, 09:28 AM	#8 (permalink)
d14u2nv7 Junior Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 3	hey same exact problem i had with my 95. run a fuel pressure test on it. if the pressure drops to nothing when you shut it off then either you have a leaky injector or a bad fuel pressure regulator. mine and most other have been the regulator and its 70 bucks at autozone. its a diy job takes 5 min to change.

October 23rd, 2009, 04:26 PM	#12 (permalink)
44TEETWO Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lebanon, Oregon Posts: 87	My 95 was the ECM. Changed it and all the problems went away! It's under the glove box and can be changed in about 10 minutes. Just make sure you unhook the battery before R&R __________________ 1995 Aurora 1978 Toronado 1977 Cutlass Supreme (2 of them right now) 1968 Cutlass Supreme 1967 442 restoration near complete 1965 442 1961 Dynamic 88 2dr Post 1991 Cadilliac Allante' (how'd that get in there?)

October 24th, 2009, 04:21 AM	#13 (permalink)
70 cutlass s Registered User Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Elizabethtown,KY Posts: 175	Check the vacuum lines connectors if bad they may need to be replaced. The fuel pressure regulator runs on vacuum. You could have a small vacuum leak and the car still run smooth. Its worth a look.

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