Dream Car Going Bad

Dredawg10 · 01-27-2007, 08:35 PM

Long story short, my 1996 Aurora is stalling when stopped in gear. I can drive the car, when at lights I pull the gear to neutral and provide a little gas and she runs, but if I just cover the brake once stopped, it will quietly shut off 3 out of 5 times at the light. To date, I have changed the plugs, wires, water pump, injector fuses, relay fuse, fuel pump relay, Idle Air Control, Fuel Assembly unit, and had the throttle body cleaned and still, the same problem. 3 different dealerships have taken a shot at the problem with a nice hourly charge, but the same result, stops when stopped. What ever the problem is, the vehicle will now shut off in park if running long enough. Can not solve this, and it is becoming a problem to throw this car in neutral and provide gas all the time. Please provide some of your Olds knowledge to this riddle. dredawg10@yahoo.com:

Redog · 01-27-2007, 09:45 PM

Does it acting like a stick when stopping? If so, Tranny soilnoid is staying stuck open. If the car has a plug in the tranny for that, unplug it.

Had that problem on a 93 Cavalier wagon, worked fine after I unpluged it

Dredawg10 · 01-28-2007, 07:05 AM

Not at all, the vehicle stops rather smoothly, but while sitting at the light waiting for the green light, the vehicle will smoothly shut off, as a matter of fact, when it shuts of, it is truly unnoticeable, you don't realize it is off until you press the pedal.

Oldsmaniac · 01-28-2007, 08:31 AM

I will direct you to another shop for repair. These new vehicles are really a crap shoot when it comes to diagnostics. The shop that you use must want to do the work as opposed to a dealer who is not that enthusiastic since it isnt a car gotten from them. State of the art equipment and scan tools will be necessary to troubleshoot. Just replacing parts on a whim gets expensive and frustrating...Ive been there before. The trouble could be most anything from vacuum leaks, fuel trouble, sensor trouble, egr trouble, etc, etc, etc....so yes, a good shop is the only way I would go about repairs if it were my car....Good Luck.

Dredawg10 · 01-28-2007, 01:47 PM

Thanks for the reply, but when it comes to automobile shop selection, we are very limited in Middle Georgia. Additionally, do I look for an electrical shop or should I continue working with dealership repair shops? I can not see either way being inexpensive, I just want to get to the root of this situation. Thanks.

Oldsmaniac · 01-29-2007, 03:48 PM

Sorry to hear there arent many repair shops around so the dealer may be the best choice....Dont they make good on their work......Why should you pay for repairs that dont fix the problem?? You need to find a shop with code readers and computerized diagnostics.....If an electrical specialty shop has that they may be able to help you. The trouble you have could also be battery/electrical in nature as well. The computer in the car needs full voltage to operate. Ive heard of newer cars cranking but not starting due to a weak battery....not like the old days when cranking was everything.

duckblaster67 · 01-29-2007, 05:34 PM

It sounds like it may be carbon stuck in the EGR valve??? Does it smell like it's running rich? Does your "check engine" light come on? If so, you can pull the EGR valve off yourself and take a screw driver, pick, etc. and push in on the valve knocking the carbon loose. Shake it out and check the manifold for more loose pieces, maybe take an air chuck and blow it out for good measure. Then simply replace it and your light should eventually go out to unless it hasn't came on yet. It sounds a lot like my 95 Blazer. I have to do this at least 3 or 4 times a year!

d14u2nv7 · 05-13-2007, 08:28 AM

hey same exact problem i had with my 95. run a fuel pressure test on it. if the pressure drops to nothing when you shut it off then either you have a leaky injector or a bad fuel pressure regulator. mine and most other have been the regulator and its 70 bucks at autozone. its a diy job takes 5 min to change.

01-27-2007, 08:35 PM	#1 (permalink)
Dredawg10 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 3	Dream Car Going Bad Long story short, my 1996 Aurora is stalling when stopped in gear. I can drive the car, when at lights I pull the gear to neutral and provide a little gas and she runs, but if I just cover the brake once stopped, it will quietly shut off 3 out of 5 times at the light. To date, I have changed the plugs, wires, water pump, injector fuses, relay fuse, fuel pump relay, Idle Air Control, Fuel Assembly unit, and had the throttle body cleaned and still, the same problem. 3 different dealerships have taken a shot at the problem with a nice hourly charge, but the same result, stops when stopped. What ever the problem is, the vehicle will now shut off in park if running long enough. Can not solve this, and it is becoming a problem to throw this car in neutral and provide gas all the time. Please provide some of your Olds knowledge to this riddle. dredawg10@yahoo.com:

01-27-2007, 09:45 PM	#2 (permalink)
Redog Alero Chapter Secretary Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Newtown, PA Posts: 632	Does it acting like a stick when stopping? If so, Tranny soilnoid is staying stuck open. If the car has a plug in the tranny for that, unplug it. Had that problem on a 93 Cavalier wagon, worked fine after I unpluged it __________________ Me 2000 Alero running 14's 1985 Delta 88 w/1968 350 rocket 2005 Nissan Altima (her's)

01-28-2007, 01:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
Dredawg10 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 3	Dream Car Going Bad Thanks for the reply, but when it comes to automobile shop selection, we are very limited in Middle Georgia. Additionally, do I look for an electrical shop or should I continue working with dealership repair shops? I can not see either way being inexpensive, I just want to get to the root of this situation. Thanks.

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01-28-2007, 07:05 AM	#3 (permalink)
Dredawg10 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 3	Not at all, the vehicle stops rather smoothly, but while sitting at the light waiting for the green light, the vehicle will smoothly shut off, as a matter of fact, when it shuts of, it is truly unnoticeable, you don't realize it is off until you press the pedal.

01-28-2007, 08:31 AM	#4 (permalink)
Oldsmaniac Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: NJ Posts: 350	I will direct you to another shop for repair. These new vehicles are really a crap shoot when it comes to diagnostics. The shop that you use must want to do the work as opposed to a dealer who is not that enthusiastic since it isnt a car gotten from them. State of the art equipment and scan tools will be necessary to troubleshoot. Just replacing parts on a whim gets expensive and frustrating...Ive been there before. The trouble could be most anything from vacuum leaks, fuel trouble, sensor trouble, egr trouble, etc, etc, etc....so yes, a good shop is the only way I would go about repairs if it were my car....Good Luck.

01-29-2007, 03:48 PM	#6 (permalink)
Oldsmaniac Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: NJ Posts: 350	Sorry to hear there arent many repair shops around so the dealer may be the best choice....Dont they make good on their work......Why should you pay for repairs that dont fix the problem?? You need to find a shop with code readers and computerized diagnostics.....If an electrical specialty shop has that they may be able to help you. The trouble you have could also be battery/electrical in nature as well. The computer in the car needs full voltage to operate. Ive heard of newer cars cranking but not starting due to a weak battery....not like the old days when cranking was everything.

01-29-2007, 05:34 PM	#7 (permalink)
duckblaster67 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: South Dakota Posts: 23	It sounds like it may be carbon stuck in the EGR valve??? Does it smell like it's running rich? Does your "check engine" light come on? If so, you can pull the EGR valve off yourself and take a screw driver, pick, etc. and push in on the valve knocking the carbon loose. Shake it out and check the manifold for more loose pieces, maybe take an air chuck and blow it out for good measure. Then simply replace it and your light should eventually go out to unless it hasn't came on yet. It sounds a lot like my 95 Blazer. I have to do this at least 3 or 4 times a year!

05-13-2007, 08:28 AM	#8 (permalink)
d14u2nv7 Junior Member Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 3	hey same exact problem i had with my 95. run a fuel pressure test on it. if the pressure drops to nothing when you shut it off then either you have a leaky injector or a bad fuel pressure regulator. mine and most other have been the regulator and its 70 bucks at autozone. its a diy job takes 5 min to change.