John
I've got another line open for some rims, but I havn't heard anything back yet.
What do you have for bolt on's? Can you post some pics? I'm in search of a full set of four.
~J

 

Hello Jon, I'll get some pic's this weekend. Would you send me a pm with your zip code so I can come up with a shipping estimate? John

 

Jon
check this thread. If Doc still has them his price is much cheaper than what mine would be!

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...bolt-caps.html

John

 

John,

Got the package this morning. Wife told me it arrived right after I left for work today. Thanks. That is fast shipping! I wish Year One would ship this fast. I am waiting for the lower rod for opening the hood for over a month! I will be in touch if (more likely when) I need other parts you might have. Thanks again

Charlie

edit...by the way, John, do you have the hood release lever that is below the bumper? I can cancel my year one order (sent me a card stating they are having trouble filling the order). Also, do you have the bolt and nut or clip for the clevis piece you sent me to attach to the brake pedal?

 

do you have or know where i can get a intake to fit a 4bbl carb on my 67 delta 425? Currently i have a 2bbl carb on it. or a 4bbl carb?

 

Any big block Olds intake will fit your engine. The choke setups are different over the years, and the later ones will have EGR valves. So a 400, 425 or a 455 intake will bolt on to your engine. The factory cast iron is pretty heavy, so if you want a factory one it would be good to locate one as close as possible. There are several aftermaket aluminum ones, but if you go that route be sure and get one that fits what you want from your engine. I've been told that the single plane like a torquer (spelling? it's getting late for me!) are better for higher rpm but the dual plane such as the performer are better for all around driving. Your best bet would be to post a parts wanted ad and put your city and state on your profile. If you are close to Medford Oregon I have several cast iron intakes. John

 

hey JOHN, its me jim in westerville ohio, sent me some rocker arm bridges. need two things if you have the time, one. set of brkts and all pullies and spacers w/ bolts for 75 thur 77 olds350 along w/ a/c brkts,alt,power steering, harmonic balancer pullies,and if you could for #two measure the space between the back of the alt to head as I need about 1/2 inch of space, I guess to simplfy this I need everything off the front off a 350, bolts and spacers just everything, why? am wanting to install a set of fabercated alu valve covers and my 65 belt system wont let me as the alt is to close the head, can you help and how much? thanks again for everthing you do!....jim

 

Hi Jim
I'll take a look to see what I can come up with.
John

 

john, never heard from bill, crazy, so maybe yours would be ok, need to know the distance from the back of the alt to the head also. I need spacers, bolts,pullies,and brkts

 

Do you have the rear tail piece that is behind the bumper for a '65?

Ralph

 

Jim, I've not had time to look for the pullys but I have added photos to my photobucket site showing the brackets on a 1966 Cutlass with the California Emissions. It has an extra pully for the smog pump that I believe your AC could use. Does this look like enough clearance on the valve cover? Are you using finned aluminum covers on your engine?

http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k2...er_id=28547257



Ralph, are you describing the large chrome piece that fits between the tail lights or the sheet metal underneath? John

 

Hope. It's the piece below that one. It's actually BEHIND the bumper.

Ralph

 

john, Iam needing everything from a 1975 thru 77 and the space between the back of the alt to the head, and the valve covers are the fabercated kind....jim

 

Do you have any rearview day/night mirrors for a 69 Cutlass? I am also looking for the body side chrome moldings for a 69 Cutlass convertible. The ones that are on the car are pretty beat up and I am looking to replace them. Thanks

 

Hello Ralph, I do have a parts car that I believe has solid metal there. If I posted a photo could you tell me what you need? If I cut it out could it be shipped to Germany without costing a mint?

Jim, I'm digging through my parts right now to try and come up with the set.

Yankee's fan, sorry I don't have any 1969 convertible parts. I may have the mirror, but most of these have the reflective material coming off, repo might be a safer bet.

 

Ralph, it's pretty dirty under there but if you can point out what your needing I'll drag the garden hoses around there and try to clean it up some. John

P1010048-2.jpg

P1010049-1.jpg

P1010050-1.jpg

 

Here's a pic from RAMZ's (beautifully done!) project. It's the part that's shiny in the last 2 pics. I should be able to get it shipped USPS to my APO address. That would save me some $. You'd have to weigh it & measure & confirm w/ the P.O. If not, I'll still take it, it'll just cost me about 28% more for shipping.

Ralph

 

Hi Ralph
I would call that the bottoms of the rear quarter panels, do you need it all the way to the fenderwell? Do you need portions of the trunk pan too? I'll have to look a little closer to see if mine is solid there. John

 

I just need the part that runs between the fenders. It's rusted right at the seam that connects it to the extension of the trunk floor. The "supports" that connect it to the upper part & to the trunk floor extension are OK. The floor extension itself is slightly rusted right at the joint. I could probably fix the joint by a slightly wider weld, or you could cut a littleinto the joint itself. (????) The floor pan itself was replaced, supposedly w/ a "real" GM replacement.

Thanks in advance 4 your time!



Ralph

 

The shiiiiiny part... I was looking at the dull grey portions! So you need the center over the fuel tank filler? The panel between the tail lights or just the lower part? John

 

Just the lower part. Looked up the military postal system max sizes. Shouldn't be a problem: 70Lbs max, 130" length plus girth.

Oh, yes- might as well mention the other parts I'm looking for:
-rt side "wind wing" (vent window). Don't know if there's a difference, but all the parts are for a post car.
-air cleaner body
-chrome trim around the dome light



Ralph

 

I just bought this '64 vista cruiser(very exciting) She needs a front bumper,LF door latch,LR door latch, RT hood hinge, the two chrome cargo strips that go on top of the tailgate carpet, rear bumper, one backup lamp or at least the lense, A/C compressor and brackets and hose assembly. Also need a source for the proper polished wiper blades. Lets see what else? Oh! It seems nobody is repopping door panels or seat upholstery, am I wrong? I know a vista rear door is longer than a regular 4 door. Also need the plastic molding that goes around the vista glass(I think I might be dreaming here) But I am thrilled to find this thing cuz it is so rare. It has factory cruise control. I have never seen this on an early A body. Also I live in Seattle and have a car hauler so If you guys need something hauled give me a shout. Funny thing not to glote but I bought the ss3 wheels and tires for $40 before I paid for the car. They had an extra center cap. When I picked up the car I saw it had one ss3 wheel with no cap. Perfection now I have all five! Any help here is much appreciated

 

Clean looking car, congrats on the new addition to your fleet! I may have some items from a 1964 2 door or a 1965 4 door but no wagons, I'll have to dig around to see. Are you wanting to keep the original style AC unit or would a newer one work? I believe I have the brackets from a 1965, but know I have complete compressors and brackets from late 1960's early 1970's. From what I've seen in 1970-72 Vista Cruisers the front doors are the same as the 4 door it's the rear door that's 6-7 inches longer. John

 

You are right I think. The '64 and '65 used that early style compressor. Not the old faithful frigidaire from '66 and on. I don't know these cars well enough. Maybe I could use a newer compressor (like off of my '70 Toro GT parts car) and a hose assembly from a '66 '67 Cutlass? I would like to keep it original style if possible.

 

Looking at your photobucket site, saw that you have a 71/72 OAI hood, How much shipped to Oklahoma 73162? Also do you have a front bumper for the '72? The one with the round parking lights?

 

Sorry, I want to use the hood on the wagon. My plans are to build the fake 442 W30 wagon that Olds never made. I do have some bumpers, I've got solid cores or driver quality bumpers. If that would work for you I can send you some photos. John

 

Hello Ralph
I don't want to cut up the rear on my parts car until I know for sure that you want it and where you need it cut. If your still interested could you make some measurements, say how much on each side of the gas tank support straps for width, then starting at the trunk lip and down to the gas tank straps for height? John

 

Too bad for me on the hood, but I'm still interested in the bumper. The one I have apparently came off a 1970. You can send the pics and prices to a72cutla@swbell.net
Thanks
Walt

 

OK Walt, I'll take some photos and send your way. If you would send me your zip code I can get a shipping estimate too. John

 

Yes, I want it. I'll take some measurements, you should get them sometime this weekend.

Ralph

 

do you ahve a tranny for the 1964 dynamic 88? I think its the RotoHydramatic (Slim Jim)

 

Sorry! Been really busy. Just tell me what you want for the panel if you just drilled the welds!

Ralph

 

john,

Do you have a set of snap on center caps for the wheels I got from you. Driver quality is fine.

Thanks

Charlie

 

Hi John, I'm looking for the switch that's mounted on the driver's side firewall ('67 Olds Cutlass Supreme w/330 eng. & 2-spd. Jetaway tranny.). The throttle linkage is connected to the sw. arm and activates the stator and detent solenoids, depending on the throttle position. The switch is round, has three 1/4" male terminals (one for the 12volts, one for the stator solenoid feed and the third for the detent solenoid feed), and is a Delco. Do you happen to have a good, used one in stock? I'm looking for one to replace mine, which is intermittent (even after a good cleaning inside and out!). Whatever help you can give me is greatly appreciated. Jim

 

Jody, I'm sorry I don't have the transmission your looking for.

Ralph, PM sent

Charlie, I'll dig around to see if I can come up with some center caps

Jim, not sure if I have an extra one or not. If I do it would be coming off a non-running car. Can you tell me how to test it off the car? John

 

John- The switch has 3 terminals. As you look at it from the driver's side fender, the bottom lug is the 12volt feed. Using a continuity meter, as you rotate the switch arm, you should get contnuity from the 12v lug to one of the other two lugs (not sure which one). Then, as you rotate the arm all the way, you should get continuity from the 12v lug to the third lug. Make sure you disconnect the three wires from the sw. lugs before you take any readings. Let me know how you make out. Thanks! Jim

 

Thanks for the details Jim, I'll see what I can come up with. John

 

John, Please let me know if you do locate a switch. I'll walk you through the procedure if you need to. Thanks for the quick comeback! Jim

 

Hello John,
I am new to this forum and noticed your post. I am curious if you still have your 67' Skylark available. While I am primarily an Olds guy, I happen to have a 67' GS 400 in need of a donor. If it is still available, I would be interested knowing more about the condition. Thanks for your time.

-James

 

Jim
I haven't come up with the switch yet but here's one someone else has on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...lenotsupported

James, sorry I no longer have the Buicks although I have a few parts left. I believe I have a dash, exhaust manifolds, bench seat and rally wheels. John