Engine overheating problem
#1
Engine overheating problem
I am new to big blocks and there heat problems. When the engine is first coold it runs will, as soon as it gets hot it starts pinging real bad and i can't get it to stop. i tried adjusting the timing, no good. i installed a hotter platinum spark plug, no good. i don't know how hot it is getting bc i don't have a temp gauge yet, installing it tomorrow to see how hot she is getting. The 455 is pretty stock, I have tried to repair most all the sins of the PO and under the hood most everything is stock. it does have later model HEI. sorry for the long post, just wanted to get all the facts strt.
I also have another problem. My torque converter is knocking. i checked the bolts and none were loose and i don't see any cracks. but the noise is definitely coming from the converter. does not matter if it is warm or cold. at idle there is just a low dull knock knock sound coming from the converter.
thanks for any help you may have. Mark
I also have another problem. My torque converter is knocking. i checked the bolts and none were loose and i don't see any cracks. but the noise is definitely coming from the converter. does not matter if it is warm or cold. at idle there is just a low dull knock knock sound coming from the converter.
thanks for any help you may have. Mark
#2
A crack in flexplate is hard to see at times but surely will cause knocking down there. The crack opens when the engine is turning....look closely at that and also trans to engine bolts. My trans bolts to block were loose once and the torque converter was hitting the housing. As for engine temp you need a gauge, still seems like a timing issue. Try some octane boost and premium fuel. If engine temp is too high check thermostat and radiator condition.
#3
we installed the temp gauge and the engine went to 230. we removed the thermostat and it went down to 190? so any ideas?
as for the TC. we don't see any cracks, but as you said could be only visible at speed. is the TC supposed to wobble so to speak? if i put a tool against the TC it is definitely not running true? the knocking sound is loudest at the TC/flex so that is why i think it is coming from there. thanks
as for the TC. we don't see any cracks, but as you said could be only visible at speed. is the TC supposed to wobble so to speak? if i put a tool against the TC it is definitely not running true? the knocking sound is loudest at the TC/flex so that is why i think it is coming from there. thanks
#4
Did the pinging go away at 190 degrees?....What was the T-stat value that you removed?...I would suggest a 160 or 180 stat....also make sure fan shroud is in place and operational thermostatic clutch on the fan.
#6
maniac, the pinging increases as the temp increases. with the t-stat removed the car runs cool, 190ish. the t-stat was new so i guess i need to try another one? my mech was trying to tell me that a big block needs to flow more that the t-stat allows and should stay out of the car. my logic tells me that is not true bc it would not have been designed that way. what say you guys?
#8
I am not aware that any Oldsmobiles have, or have had, "cooling system problems".
What needed repair?
What are the ambient temps. Is 230° normal for that combination on the highway? In the city? At idle?
When you removed the stat, you removed a restriction which brought the temp down.
A stat that is fully open at 160° or 180° cannot cause that 190° or 230° temp to fall.
Good advice, if the problem only occurs at speeds below 30 MPH. He has not said whether it does, or does not.
Only if it was stuck in the closed position. If it was, the temp would have gone a lot higher than 230°. If it was partially closed, coolant temp would have gone down considerably, when it was removed.
A big block with a restricted cooling system, is no different than any other liquid cooled engine with a restricted cooling system.
You need to find another mechanic. Best place to look, in this case, is in a radiator repair shop.
Norm
When you removed the stat, you removed a restriction which brought the temp down.
A stat that is fully open at 160° or 180° cannot cause that 190° or 230° temp to fall.
Only if it was stuck in the closed position. If it was, the temp would have gone a lot higher than 230°. If it was partially closed, coolant temp would have gone down considerably, when it was removed.
You need to find another mechanic. Best place to look, in this case, is in a radiator repair shop.
Norm
#9
What needed repair?
You name it, it needed repair. bascially the car had been neglected of any quality mechanical work. the engine compartment was a mess. i relied on the build manual to put it back to stock. i am kind of **** like that. but unfortunately I am not a mechanic so i have to rely upon my "inhouse" mech who is really good at small engine repair and "ok" with cars, esp. classics if you get my drift. but for not that is what i have to work with so i have to baby sit him and make sure he does it right. the language barrier is also a real challenge.
What are the ambient temps. Is 230° normal for that combination on the highway? In the city? At idle?
ambient temp was in the 90's. not city driving, not much idel.
When you removed the stat, you removed a restriction which brought the temp down.
sounds like it could have been a restriction issue as noted below, if it did not work it would have cooked the engine vs. just getting really hot.
A stat that is fully open at 160° or 180° cannot cause that 190° or 230° temp to fall.
Good advice, if the problem only occurs at speeds below 30 MPH. He has not said whether it does, or does not.
Only if it was stuck in the closed position. If it was, the temp would have gone a lot higher than 230°. If it was partially closed, coolant temp would have gone down considerably, when it was removed.
A big block with a restricted cooling system, is no different than any other liquid cooled engine with a restricted cooling system.
You need to find another mechanic. Best place to look, in this case, is in a radiator repair shop.
see above
thanks Norm for all the great advice. i will work on it this week. first thing is to get another stat.
Norm[/QUOTE]
You name it, it needed repair. bascially the car had been neglected of any quality mechanical work. the engine compartment was a mess. i relied on the build manual to put it back to stock. i am kind of **** like that. but unfortunately I am not a mechanic so i have to rely upon my "inhouse" mech who is really good at small engine repair and "ok" with cars, esp. classics if you get my drift. but for not that is what i have to work with so i have to baby sit him and make sure he does it right. the language barrier is also a real challenge.
What are the ambient temps. Is 230° normal for that combination on the highway? In the city? At idle?
ambient temp was in the 90's. not city driving, not much idel.
When you removed the stat, you removed a restriction which brought the temp down.
sounds like it could have been a restriction issue as noted below, if it did not work it would have cooked the engine vs. just getting really hot.
A stat that is fully open at 160° or 180° cannot cause that 190° or 230° temp to fall.
Good advice, if the problem only occurs at speeds below 30 MPH. He has not said whether it does, or does not.
Only if it was stuck in the closed position. If it was, the temp would have gone a lot higher than 230°. If it was partially closed, coolant temp would have gone down considerably, when it was removed.
A big block with a restricted cooling system, is no different than any other liquid cooled engine with a restricted cooling system.
You need to find another mechanic. Best place to look, in this case, is in a radiator repair shop.
see above
thanks Norm for all the great advice. i will work on it this week. first thing is to get another stat.
Norm[/QUOTE]
#10
"A stat that is fully open at 160° or 180° cannot cause that 190° or 230° temp to fall."
Running with no thermostat can cause higher temps than with a thermostat. Coolant is moving so quickly that it doesnt have a chance to cool down in the radiator. I have not experienced this myself but have read it more than once.
Running with no thermostat can cause higher temps than with a thermostat. Coolant is moving so quickly that it doesnt have a chance to cool down in the radiator. I have not experienced this myself but have read it more than once.
#11
Engine? Cooling system? Ignition?
What was done?
Highway?
On a 90° day, what temp do you see (with or without a stat) at idle? at 30MPH? At 70 MPH?
Norm
What was done?
........ ambient temp was in the 90's. not city driving, not much idel ........
On a 90° day, what temp do you see (with or without a stat) at idle? at 30MPH? At 70 MPH?
Norm
#12
If the system is at 190° with no stat, how could a fully open 160° make it run cooler?
........ Coolant is moving so quickly that it doesnt have a chance to cool down in the radiator ........
........ but have read it more than once.
OP still has not given us enough to work with.
Norm
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