Rebuilding, Swapping, Buildup, & Restoration
Gaskets, Seals
Use the thicker oil pan gaskets for the Olds 350 diesel to better prevent
pan oil leaks.
To change a 2 piece rear mail seal without removing the crankshaft . . .
The rope type is hard to do. To remove the old upper half you try to pull
it with needle nose plyers while turning the crank. Pushing it from the
other side can help a little if the seal is old and hard. If its soft it
will just wad up when pushed on.
To install the upper half they made a tool
that worked like chinese handcuffs with a flexable wire attached. You
threaded the wire through the seal groove and pulled the rope through.The
seal is long enough so you can remove the tool and trim the seal. You
can't pack it in like you would if you had the crank out.
The neoprene type
will usually come out fairly easily by pushing on it and turning the crank.
With some oil on it the new one will slip right in. Main bearings can be
changed in the same way.
I would think the Fel-Pro numbers would still be good, don't know about
the FoMoCo number since I recall they drop stuff right and left, change
numbers, etc. The Fel-Pro numbers can probably be cross referenced to other
brands as well.
The small block can use the rear main seal for the old Ford 292 engine.
It is Fel-Pro B/S 6141.
The big block Olds can use the Ford 460 neoprene rear main seal. The Fel-Pro
part number is B/S 40032. The Ford part number is E9AZ-6701-A or D2VE-6701-AA.
Remember to offset the split ends, slightly off the main end caps,
and seal the two ends with some gasket sealer(Peramtex 700). Also put a
light covering of assembly lube or grease on the part that seals the
crackshaft so it doesn't burn up the seal on start up.
[ Thanks to Cliff Feiler, John Foster, Bob Handren for this information ]
Rocker Covers
I prefer rubber
gaskets over cork. Then I take hardening Peratex and place it only on the
valve cover and not the engine. Make sure everything is clean before the
install. Wipe the gasket areas down with lacquer thinner first. When you
tighten them down DON'T USE A RACHET. I use a nut driver and only snug
them well with a screwdriver like twist. This prevents overtightening
which WILL cause leaks. Over tightening is the major cause
of the leaks. Silicon doesn't help either. It has a tendency to let the
gasket squirm too much. Five years and they still do not leak.
Victor makes gaskets that are laminated steel and cork. They work well.
Take alot of on and offs too. The part number is #VS38305TC.
I like the Fel-pro composition (rubber/Cork) valve cover gaskets for
sealing ability. If I'm not going to the track, and I don't plan on opening
the engine soon, I always use the composition type.
There are three ways to seal valve covers properly. Use rubber gaskets. Use
cork gaskets but before installing them, rub silicone all over them and let
them set up for half an hour before installing them. Or use silicone only,
putting a good bead of silicone around your valve cover, install, then let
set up for half an hour before tightening them to factory specs.
[ Thanks to Jim Chermack, Scott Kozhill for this information ]
Studs
Don't use head studs, as you can't pull the heads off the motor when they're
in the car.
[ Thanks to Bob Barry, David Voit for this information ]
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