Wheel bearing races
July 1st, 2018, 06:57 AM
#1
Joe Ralph
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Wheel bearing races
I am redoing the brakes on my 72 and the wheel bearings need replacement - bought a new rotor and new inner / outer bearings and grease seal - the bearings came with new races - since the rotors are new do I need to use the new races from the new bearings or are the new races that are with the new rotor fine?
July 1st, 2018, 08:16 AM
#3
Old(s) Fart
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July 1st, 2018, 01:51 PM
#7
Joe Ralph
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i put in the matched races - wasn’t that bad - thanks for the input - regarding the castle nut.... just keep it the same threads in or is there an exact science to it? - my kingdom for banjo bolts though - argh - new calipers - new brake hoses - neither comes with Banjo bolts - tired of trips to the parts store for today - have to walk away from it for now
July 1st, 2018, 02:11 PM
#9
Joe Ralph
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July 1st, 2018, 05:23 PM
#11
Joe Ralph
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July 2nd, 2018, 03:37 PM
#13
Joe Ralph
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got them! I’m going to try something different - I’m going to try and do it correct the first time - I thought I read somewhere to torque banjo bolts down to 22? And does it go 1) caliper 2) copper gasket 3) brake hose 4) other copper gasket 5) banjo bolt? Also - I’ve got the fire wall mount on the other end of the brake hose - does the hose just go directly to the brake line or do I need some gasket or anything?
July 2nd, 2018, 03:44 PM
#14
Old(s) Fart
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July 2nd, 2018, 03:58 PM
#15
Joe Ralph
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I did actually catch that - I bought new calipers and hoses - I saw (in opgi I believe) that there were two types of banjo bolts available - original and for remanufactuted - so I brought my caliper with me to napa and did it right there - should be good to go - thanks for the input!
July 2nd, 2018, 08:43 PM
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Last edited by jaunty75; July 2nd, 2018 at 08:45 PM.
July 3rd, 2018, 04:14 PM
#17
Joe Ralph
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front brakes and master cylinder done - just need to do rears and I’m back in action
July 4th, 2018, 08:17 AM
#19
Joe Ralph
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July 4th, 2018, 08:18 AM
#21
Joe Ralph
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July 4th, 2018, 08:21 AM
#22
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You should not need C clamps to push the wheel cylinder stems back in. Usually the springs will pull everything back in the proper place. Have you turned the adjustment star wheel at the bottom in also?
July 4th, 2018, 08:41 AM
#23
Joe Ralph
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i did - the star adjuster turns smoorhly - I’m conserned that maybe these new cylinders are too long? - the body appears correct at 3 inches but the rods from the shoes to the wheel cylinders will twist up or down rather then push in the wheel cylinders - wish I took a pick but might redo and show ya - there is a big gap where both shoes meet the guide pin at top - if I pull the rods out of the wheel cylinders they can align correctly - but the rods don’t push in the pistons on wheel cylinders
July 4th, 2018, 11:32 AM
#25
Joe Ralph
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got it all done minus the bleeding - just needed more swearing 😜 - forgot why I hated doing the drum brake “boards” in high school auto class - now I remember - second side was a breeze after I messed up the first side four or five times hehe - thanks for listening - it does help to have someone to bounce it off of
July 4th, 2018, 11:44 AM
#27
Joe Ralph
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The pistons like to bind on the back board “forks” (a structure that is in the back plate - no idea on name - it’s more of a raised area) that are on either side of the cylinder - had to loosen the wheel cylinder then push pistons in - that took a bit for me to figure out - then I had to fail at springs several times and run over to the neighbor town to retrieve them - lastly - the washer and the washer with the tube that are the base of the hold down springs matter - I had them backwards first time - the self adjuster won’t function properly if you do this (just hoping someone down the road reads this and learns from my mistake) praying I don’t get leaks - I always do - I’m the worst at liquids - hopefully this works and I’m back on the road again - next project is rear end seals and axle bearings - do you happen to know how many grease zerks a 72 has?
July 4th, 2018, 04:01 PM
#29
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I think you have your shoes on backwards. The long lining shoe goes to rear and the short one doesn't. When you remove those shoes, put a light touch of white grease on the four ? raised patches where the lining rests on the backing plate.
Last edited by Yellowstatue; July 4th, 2018 at 04:05 PM. Reason: After thought.
July 4th, 2018, 05:37 PM
#30
Joe Ralph
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argh! Thanks for noticing that! Well I’m getting really good at doing them lol - I put the blue caliper grease on the rub parts of the back plate
July 8th, 2018, 09:01 AM
#37
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Please don't take this wrong, not trying to be picky, but those things in the rear are called brake "shoes", not "pads". What YOU have on the front are brake "pads". Some cars were also made with brake "drums" and brake "shoes'
The reason I mention this, is because some cars do have brake "pads" and/or brake "shoes" all the way around. Correct terminology can perhaps avert confusion and getting the wrong parts.
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; July 8th, 2018 at 09:12 AM. Reason: proofread
July 8th, 2018, 02:04 PM
#38
Joe Ralph
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Please don't take this wrong, not trying to be picky, but those things in the rear are called brake "shoes", not "pads". What YOU have on the front are brake "pads". Some cars were also made with brake "drums" and brake "shoes'
The reason I mention this, is because some cars do have brake "pads" and/or brake "shoes" all the way around. Correct terminology can perhaps avert confusion and getting the wrong parts.
The reason I mention this, is because some cars do have brake "pads" and/or brake "shoes" all the way around. Correct terminology can perhaps avert confusion and getting the wrong parts.
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