1986 cruiser questions

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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:27 PM
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1986 cruiser questions

just got an 86 olds wagon for $600. 307 with 200r4. pretty typical. Needs an altenator and battery but other than that it drives great. Couple questions.

Where the heck is the brights switch!! cant find it anywhere

How do i go from the Computer contorolled carb to a normal carb?

anyway to put wood paneling on it? Mine dosent have it and ive always wanted wood wagon.

I wanna put on a hitch. How easy is that and how much can these pull

anyway to make it more efficient/powerful by taking off the emission crap? Ive got plans for headers and cam. Also taking off the Cat converter

any help would be great thanks!
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:32 PM
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Pull the flasher stalk back for brights.

You don't want to lose the CCC. It's a good thing

Any company that does vinyl wraps can do 'wood' for ya.

Tow rating is upwards of 4000lbs. Get a trailer with brakes tho. The wagon's brakes have enough work to do just reining in it's own weight.

You'll be told ad nauseum that any attempt to get more power out of the 307 is pointless. Step up. All the accessories, and the mounts don't change one little bit when you drop a 350 or 403 in there. Instead of scrapping the cat, replace it with a free flowing one.

Last edited by Professur; November 22nd, 2013 at 12:36 PM.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Professur
Pull the flasher stalk back for brights.
Is that the hazzards switch on the steering column?
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:37 PM
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The hazards is a small black **** on the right side of the column. Looks like a button. Pull it out for 4 ways
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:39 PM
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i meant is the flasher stalk the hazzards ****? No matter what way i turn the headlight switch i cant get the brights to turn on.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Not turn ... pull the flasher stalk
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 01:10 PM
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Maybe the bulbs are out. When i pull it all the way out it turns on the regular headlights and when it twists it adjusts the interior lights brightness.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 01:13 PM
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That's the 'lights' **** on the dash board. Leave it alone, put your hands back on the wheel, 10 and 2 oclock. Right by your left pinky is the flasher lever. It goes up and down to turn on the right and left flasher ... it also pulls back towards you to turn the high beams on. Pull it again to turn them off. Right below and behind that is a similar but smaller lever, that's for the tilt steering wheel.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 01:29 PM
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I think mixdorf is getting confused by perhaps some Canadian terminology. By "flasher", we U.S.-ers usually mean the 4-way hazard flashers that you used to turn on my pulling a little **** on the steering column but more recently you turn by pushing a button on the dashboard.

What he means is that you want to pull the turn signal stalk (not "flasher lever"--that had me confused for a minute, too) toward you to turn on the high-beams. Push it up to signal a right turn, down to signal a left turn, and pull it toward you to toggle the high-beams on and off.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 01:34 PM
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Brights is usually a british term .. but then the turn signals would be called blinkers.

I deal with 4 languages on a regular basis: British, canuck, american and quebec french. Getting lost in the translation is a frequent thing for me.

Last edited by Professur; November 22nd, 2013 at 01:36 PM.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 01:43 PM
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I am an idiot. Every single car ive owned has the brights like that. Im in college and i havent driven for a while. Thanks for being patient.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 01:51 PM
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No worries. I drove a newly acquired Subaru Loyale 6 hours through the mountains north of QC city in the middle of winter on low beams. When you pulled the stalk back the brights would light, but not stay up. I presumed it was a faulty switch. A week later my hand clipped the stalk wrong and pushed it back and there was that lovely blue light on the dash. It had never occurred to me to push it.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:03 PM
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Anyone else in favor of the CCC? It just seems like its limiting performance and gas milage.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Professur
When you pulled the stalk back the brights would light, but not stay up. I presumed it was a faulty switch.
Not faulty at all. This is called the "flash to pass" feature, and it allows you to momentarily flash the high beams to let the guy in front of you know you're going to pass him on a two-lane road. You can also flash an oncoming car at night whose high-beams are on to "ask" him to turn them off.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:08 PM
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Oh, almost forgot $600??? you suck!!!
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jaunty75
Not faulty at all. This is called the "flash to pass" feature, and it allows you to momentarily flash the high beams to let the guy in front of you know you're going to pass him on a two-lane road. You can also flash an oncoming car at night whose high-beams are on to "ask" him to turn them off.
Where were you 16 years ago when I needed you?
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mixdorf
Anyone else in favor of the CCC? It just seems like its limiting performance and gas milage.
The CCC system only controls the primary side mixture ratio. The secondaries are purely mechanical, just like those on any other Qjet. The CCC has no effect on WOT performance. It WILL have a dramatic effect on mileage if it is not running correctly, however. Few people have the skill or patience to adjust it properly, unfortunately. You must first ensure that every part of the system is in correct working order (including the miles of vacuum lines) then you MUST follow the adjustment procedure in the CSM exactly.

As for towing, the 200-4R in stock form is marginal without a trailer. I've blown up two with stock, pavement-ripping, 140 HP 307 motors. Get a properly built 200-4R before you even think about towing. Also get a quality trans cooler, as heat will destroy a 200-4R in no time. Bolt-on trailer hitches used to be readily available when these cars were newer, not so much any more. I was fortunate to find one at Carlisle for my Custom Cruiser. You may have to have one custom made. I've also installed AirLift air bags inside the rear coil springs. These are much preferred over air shocks.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mixdorf
Anyone else in favor of the CCC? It just seems like its limiting performance and gas milage.
You might want to do a search on this site under the term "CCC." Tech guru Joe Padavano has had a lot to say about it.

It's a tightly integrated system that can be difficult to keep in proper tune but that cannot simply be "ripped" off the engine and still expect the engine to run well or at all. Your best bet is probably to get the factory service manual for this car and learn how to properly adjust and maintain the CCC system.

Or, as the Professur suggests, take the whole engine out and put something in there that predates the CCC and is easier to maintain, like a '70s 350 or 403.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:18 PM
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yeah 600 for a well optioned car. 27000 miles. full title and resgistraion. Power everything towing package wire hubcap wheels. ac and heater work. needs some work. Aftermarket radio. Disc brakes squeek powersteering needs fluid and it was almost out of oil when i got it. Dirtiest oil ive ever seen. some small surface rust(really rare here in Iowa) and missing a few interior bit. Anyone know how to fix the headliners in these? I know its a common problem. Also is there an aftermarket partsupplier for B-Bodies? Ebay has a lot of stuff but i was wondering if there was a specialty store.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The CCC system only controls the primary side mixture ratio. The secondaries are purely mechanical, just like those on any other Qjet. The CCC has no effect on WOT performance. It WILL have a dramatic effect on mileage if it is not running correctly, however. Few people have the skill or patience to adjust it properly, unfortunately. You must first ensure that every part of the system is in correct working order (including the miles of vacuum lines) then you MUST follow the adjustment procedure in the CSM exactly.

As for towing, the 200-4R in stock form is marginal without a trailer. I've blown up two with stock, pavement-ripping, 140 HP 307 motors. Get a properly built 200-4R before you even think about towing. Also get a quality trans cooler, as heat will destroy a 200-4R in no time. Bolt-on trailer hitches used to be readily available when these cars were newer, not so much any more. I was fortunate to find one at Carlisle for my Custom Cruiser. You may have to have one custom made. I've also installed AirLift air bags inside the rear coil springs. These are much preferred over air shocks.
Yeah tranny cooler is on my list. Ive actually got a muncie m20 laying around from a camaro build ive been toying with that idea. You said pavement ripping. Are you joking becuase i cant break the rear tires loose no matter what i do. I figured it would have enough torque to at least chirp. Maybe my 307 isnt runnig as well as i thought(engine light is on). It gas milage is pretty mad. about 12 highway. I really dont want to mess with the computer or tune the carb. DO i just need a normal carb and a different distributor? Or do i have to get rid of other stuff? i would really like to get rid of all the vacuum lines
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 07:53 PM
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Then what you really want to do is start pricing a stand alone ls7. Power, mileage, and a warranty to boot.
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Old November 23rd, 2013, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mixdorf
You said pavement ripping. Are you joking
Clearly the [SARCASM][/SARCASM] HTML tags aren't working...

Ask yourself - would someone who was serious use the terms "140 HP" and "pavement ripping" in the same sentence?
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Old November 23rd, 2013, 08:25 AM
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Well ... if you were talking a Dodge Omni ..
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