1970 VC Guidance

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Old February 25th, 2018, 07:59 PM
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1970 VC Guidance

Hello fellow wagon enthusiasts,

I'm here to learn a few things about the VC. I currently own a 1992 Olds Custom Cruiser and I love him to death. He's a great DD and I get compliments on him all the time. However, for the longest time I've always wanted an early 70's GM. As I'm sure most of you know, many of the models are already highly sought out after and are now costing a pretty penny to purchase. I was looking at 70's chevelles, Buick wagons, etc. but the prices have just become too d**n high! I love the fact that for some of the 70's models, you're able to open up a year one catalog and order NEW parts for your ride. Something that I'm not able to do with my 92' olds. I also love the looks, "heaviness" and presence these cars bring along with them. That and I don't have to worry about emissions.

Anyhow, I have the opportunity to purchase a 70's vista cruiser for around 2k. It needs a battery, but the owner assures me that it starts up healthy and runs fine. It's not completely clapped out- but it has been resting for a while. There's mold hanging around the exterior of the car and the car looks parked under a tree. There doesn't look to be ANY dents on the body- as it's nice and straight. The paint looks like a very dark faded green. The vista glass has been cracked and water has been seeping in. He states that there is rust on the passenger floor board. Obviously when I go to look tomorrow, I'll be looking everywhere for rust as that is my main concern. However, even if there are a few spots here and there- would that be enough of a deterrent to NOT purchase the car? The seats look torn as there are cloth covers over all the benches. But for this price... I'm looking for something that I can work on restoring for the rest of my life here on earth, my own project that will never be completed (in my own eyes)- and I want to start with a 70's GM car, so I know for the price I really can't beat it if I want to start SOMEWHERE. Else it's looking like 10-15k.

I'm mechanically inclined, just not on the body work side. I've also never messed with carb'd vehicles before. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I read up on the other thread about asking if it's a "Real 70's" car, and one way to know was the metal parts on the actual tail lights. But that was as far as I read. Do you guys think this would be a wise purchase? I go look at it tomorrow, and I'll pick up a battery on the way there.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 01:42 AM
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If this is a 1970-72 VC and not a 73-77 car, $2K is awfully cheap for a nice one. The biggest problem with these cars is rust around the roof windows, which leads to leaks, which leads to more rust. Frequently this pinchweld rust is hidden under the stainless trim and not visible until the trim is removed. Repair requires removal of the glass, headliner, and welding in new metal. Same thing for pinchweld rust around the windshield. It's very common on these cars. If there is evidence of a leak, most sellers will tell you the glass just needs to be resealed. Don't believe it.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 05:01 AM
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If you want a project that will last the rest of your life and you're not too elderly this one is for you! If you're 60 or older get something easier! No seriously they are great cars but much harder that a 2 door. Hardly any parts are repoped for them and the rear inner structure is "difficult" lets say. I bought mine on ebay for $1000.00 ( ebay, lazy boy chair, and Black Velvet are a bad combination) I like mine but have shelved it after realizing what a large project it is. I have made it a good driver and I enjoy driving it in the summer. Good luck on it. They are nice cars. I get a lot of honks and thumbs up with mine especially when filled with my three grandkids and dog are riding in the back!!
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Old February 26th, 2018, 06:44 AM
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Thanks guys. I'll go and look at it today. I appreciate the tip about the rusted metal under the trim- I'm almost certain that'll be an issue as well as the cracked glass. I'm 32 years old, so I've still got a little bit of life in me. Just NEVER worked on body before- so the idea of starting with a car with rust just seems a bit overwhelming to me. If he was rust free it'd be a no brainer for me. I do have a feeling that it might be more worse than I'm anticipating though... the rust that is. There looks to be mold on the spare parts in the cargo area. He's disclosed the rust on the passenger floor board. I don't know. I've worked with surface rust before, but that was on military aircraft with a Government budget, lol.

I once drove 45 minutes to a dealer who was selling a 70 chevelle for 8k. Before I made the drive out there, I asked the sales rep how bad the rust was. The guys exact words were "not that bad". When I got out there, the only thing holding the car up together was the paint and the easterly winds. I opened the trunk and was able to see nearly all the tread of both rear tires. Underneath the trunk was the worst (right below the rear glass). Rust holes as wide and long as both my arms. But man... when I started him up, the heaviness of gas pedal, the weight of the car shifting from the torque of the flywheel and the feeling of being in something bigger than myself that spanned decades was amazing. I want more of that.

So Joe- any rust and you yourself would walk away? Especially in those pinch welded areas?

Last edited by CapriceCarl; February 26th, 2018 at 06:48 AM.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by CapriceCarl
So Joe- any rust and you yourself would walk away? Especially in those pinch welded areas?
It entirely depends on your budget, skills, and expectations. The least expensive way to build a car is to start with the nicest one possible. That usually means a much more expensive initial purchase, but it pays off in the end. Of course, this has never stopped ME from buying cars I knew better about...

I'm particularly sensitive to the rust on the VC due to my experience with my 64. Bought the car and shipped it from Reno to the east coast specifically because is was supposed to be rust free. The seller basically lied. Here's what i found under the roof window trim. I do have the equipment to repair this, but now I have to find the time, so this project unfortunately waits.



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Old February 26th, 2018, 06:57 AM
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I should also add that if the roof glass is cracked, you will pay dearly for a replacement. No one sells new roof glass, so used is your only option. I had to buy a complete VC parts car to get the one piece of glass I needed for mine. Of course, I now have spares for the rest.
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Old February 26th, 2018, 07:00 AM
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Oh wow. Sorry to hear about that Joe. Yea- that's looking pretty mortifying. I wouldn't even know where to begin with something like that. The rest of the car looks great though! I'm not feeling too positive about looking at this car today. At least I'll be able to start up his 455... (sigh) maybe one day.


Originally Posted by joe_padavano
I should also add that if the roof glass is cracked, you will pay dearly for a replacement. No one sells new roof glass, so used is your only option. I had to buy a complete VC parts car to get the one piece of glass I needed for mine. Of course, I now have spares for the rest.

​​​​​​​UGH...
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Old February 26th, 2018, 07:39 AM
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The spare tire well is known to rust away also, on the passenger side behind the rear wheel. Also check the storage area that is just in front of the tail gate. Lift the lid & see how bad that area is. Like Joe said, the areas under the top window stainless WILL have rust. You can find some parts for the Vistas but some are very hard to find & expensive. Take lots of pictures of the car, inside, outside, underneath the rear area, & under the hood. There are lots of us on here with parts & knowledge & if you are mad at yourself & you do buy the car, we can help you in about every area.
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