am99888

. Am rebuilding 54S88 2dr sedan as close to original as possible. Heater hoses had all been removed. I need a picture or directions as to which hose goes where on engine to heater control, then control to heater, and then back to engine.

Tedd Thompson

am98888, routing is as follows.

From water pump to the top inlet of the heater core.

Out of the heater core from the lower hose to the heater control valve.

From heater control valve back to block inlet behind the carburetor.

Hope this helps. This is on a super 88 1955 but I would think it would be the same as a 1954...If this isn't clear let me know and I will try and re explain......Tedd

Highwayman

I'll offer up a picture of my 56 if it will help.

golds56

hopefully this will be a picture i got from oldsdad when i asked the same question.

am99888

Ok, but which hose goes to which fitting on the control valve?

golds56

the lower heater core hose goes to the forward facing tube of the heater valve and the upper heater core hose goes to the pump.the vslve outlet faceing the passenger fender goes to the nipple(i said nipple) on the rear of the block.

am99888

Fastenating. I've now seen the controller connecting hoses connected both ways. Maybe it functions either way??? But thanks very much for the info and pictures. If this is the biggest puzzle we have with this project it shouldn't be half bad.

biggercanoe

I had the same problem as I recently purchased a 1955 olds s88 2dr hardtop with an engine trans conversion. 454 chey BB and turbo 400 trans. heater not connected. Now with this info posted in the forum I will work on getting these hoses connected and hopefully have some heat. Thanks for the posting.

redoldsman

Thanks guys. I am getting ready to pull the heater core in my 54 before I install the underdash AC. It has not been hooked up in years. I have a new Ranco valve that is for a 53. It has both hoses on the side rather than one on the front. I think it will work okay. These things are hard to find and expensive. I had been outbid on several of them. I am not looking forward to pulling the heater core.

Tedd Thompson

Redoldsman, Not as bad as you might think (other than being upside down for a hour).just remember to get all the small surround screws off, a couple will be hiding under the rubber flashing where you would not expect them. The hard part is getting the heater shroud separated from the heater core. The insulation or what ever it is they used 50 + years ago will now be glue and is hard to break free from the shroud. I used a heat gun and it softened it up enough that I could pry it out with out bending it or breaking anything.I have seen someone else on here remove the heater motor and push the core out from the firewall to the dash but I did not have to do that myself. If you get that far into it I would for sure replace or rebuild the core, mine leaked like a little puppy and the antifreeze messed up my new carpet, I had been in there a couple years before and didn't think I needed one at that time, big mistake, everything needs to be replaced after 50 + years:...Tedd

redoldsman

Thanks Tedd. I suspect the old core is going to be so rotted it will have to be replaced. I don't think anybody repros them. I think I read somewhere (on here probably) that somebody used a core for a Ford truck and had it cut down. I will need to find a good radiator shop for this and then I am sure I will have to have my radiator changed to a 4 core once I install the AC.

Tedd Thompson

Take your old rotten core with you and see if they can match it up with something more common. My guy had several on the shelf and I'am sure they weren't there for just 55 Oldsmobile's. Probably fit something like a S-10 or F-150 pickup or something.....Tedd

redoldsman

Well, I pulled the heater core out Sunday afternoon. Like you said Tedd, it was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. That old black tar sealant is tough. I will use Eastwood strip caulk going back in. When I got it apart the core still had the black paint on it which was encouraging. I could see on the back of the ductwork where the Ranco valve had leaked. Tonight I pressure tested the core with about 20 lbs of air pressure on it and submerged in water. No bubbles. Apparently when the Ranco valve went out, they disconnected the heater and Lord only knows how long ago that was. I will test it again Saturday. Now I hope to get all this back in and my Frigiking under dash unit mounted. I finished the compressor mount a couple weeks ago and am very satisfied with it. I mounted the condenser last weekend. Hopefully next week it will be off to the AC shop where I will let them makeup the hoses and charge the system. That will be right before the weather starts getting warm in Texas. I have a fan shroud off a 52 Olds that I have not installed yet and I imagine I will have to have my radiator recored to a 4 core to cool it. I have already added the AC water pump and a 6 blade fan. Show season is almost here so I have to finish this stuff up.

redoldsman

I got the heater core all put back together and installed today. I had check the heater core Wednesday night and didn't think it was leaking. I decided to check it one more time Saturday morning and it has some tiny air bubble. I had one little leak around one of the hose connections and had it resoldered. Seems like I spent way more time than I should getting the blower working properly. I wound up having to take the switch apart and cleaning the contacts are running one new wire from the switch to the resister strip inside the heater cover. The heat works great. Now I have to find some defroster hose. The two local parts stores don't have it. I have not checked Fusicks. Nest weekend I will get the refurbished Frigiking under dash AC installed and it will be ready to go to the AC shop to hoodup all the components and charge the system. I should be done before the Texas weather really gets hot.

setzman

Hey redoldsman - this thread is from long ago, but did your heat work out ok? I seem to always have heat on in the car and cant figure out how to turn it off. I assume engine coolant is flowing thru my heater core constantly because the car heats up so much in the summer I cant bear to be in there. Is there a valve that should go shut and maybe is stuck open?

redoldsman

Setzaman:

My heater works great just like it should. I replaced the Ranco valve when I had the car apart with an NOS one for a 53. If you have no leaks and don't want to take the car apart to repair or replace the Ranco valve, you can install a shutoff valve in your water pump and close the water off circulating through the heater core. The Rando valve comes out from the backside of the dash.

Aires Manuel Machado

I had mine done. Cost $261

redoldsman

It is interesting to see how many posts I have in this thread. Man that was almost 6 years ago. Well the rest of the story as Paul Harvey used to say is that about six months ago I noticed my right floorboard being damp. It was damp and oily. Yeah the damn heater core started leaking and that was after I had it repaired when I had it out. No way I was going to pull it back out since I rarely use the heater anyway. So I got a couple of the shutoff valves and put on on the water pump and one on the intake manifold and shut the water to the heater off completely. Now I am putting oil dry on the carpet on the right side to try and dry up the antifreeze. You cannot wash that stuff out of the carpet. After one more application of oil dry I will scrub the carpet with Dawn. It is very disappointing to that it started leaking.

therobski

Hey Glen, lets fix the heater core...

redoldsman

Not gonna happen. That thing was a beast to get out before I put the AC in. I only used it a couple times and that was on the trip to Bastrop. Now if the AC went out that would be another story. Miss Ginny has to have the AC.