Crankshaft pulley removal to change front motor mount on a 324 - ClassicOldsmobile.com


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Old February 24th, 2018, 01:29 PM   #1  
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Crankshaft pulley removal to change front motor mount on a 324

Greetings everyone, Has anyone had the crankshaft pulley off from a 54 Olds? I have two questions. Is the 3/4 nut holding on the pulley right or left hand threads? And does one need a wheel puller to get the pulley off. I have to replace the front motor mount and that crank pulley has to come off.

Thanks, Gawain
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Old February 24th, 2018, 03:11 PM   #2  
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I ran into something like this before. Here's the thread with a reply from one of the 1954 experts!

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...962-394-a.html
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Old February 24th, 2018, 03:20 PM   #3  
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OK, I found some pictures. The balancer and pulleys come off together. There's a keyway in the crankshaft, and once the bolt is removed you can pull or gently pry maybe tap with a mallet to remove the assembly. I'm 99% sure they were normal thread, just on there really really tight. But one of the guys who knows this vintage better than I can speak to the thread direction.














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Old February 24th, 2018, 03:30 PM   #4  
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I have had the one on my 54 off a couple times. If you have an impact wrench it is your friend in getting the bolt loose. It is just a big right handed thread. The pulley and balancer are all made together. It comes off pretty easy. It may take a little soaking and some tapping because it has been on there so long.
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Old February 24th, 2018, 06:26 PM   #5  
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X2.... What they all said.... Tedd

If you don't have a impact wrench and it doesn't come off easily you can lock up the flex plate through the starter hole with a crow bar or heavy screwdriver and attack it with a breaker bar...... Tedd

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Old February 25th, 2018, 01:48 AM   #6  
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You have good advice. I held the engine from turning with a turning tool on the flywheel and loosened the bolt with a 3/4" drive socket and a big breaker bar. If you can't tap the pulley off with a soft hammer you can use a gear puller; just don't pull on the ring. Upon re-installation the Olds shop manual recommends using POB number 3 sealer on the crankshaft and key/keyway to discourage oil leaking. It also recommends using a new lock washer. I don't remember doing either, and nothing leaked or came loose.
Torque to 45-50 ft-pounds.
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Old March 12th, 2018, 11:22 AM   #7  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzie View Post
You have good advice. I held the engine from turning with a turning tool on the flywheel and loosened the bolt with a 3/4" drive socket and a big breaker bar. If you can't tap the pulley off with a soft hammer you can use a gear puller; just don't pull on the ring. Upon re-installation the Olds shop manual recommends using POB number 3 sealer on the crankshaft and key/keyway to discourage oil leaking. It also recommends using a new lock washer. I don't remember doing either, and nothing leaked or came loose.
Torque to 45-50 ft-pounds.


All good advice, and correct. I've had mine off a couple of times. Used an impact wrench. I Also had to replace the front engine mount. Be very careful on the front oil seal. Mine leaks, and I've replaced it several times, and still leaks like crazy.

Last edited by DFitz; March 12th, 2018 at 11:31 AM.
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Old March 12th, 2018, 11:40 AM   #8  
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I have the front motor mount -- and the rear bell housing mounts for both stick and automatic, if you need them....
Feel free to call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935 ... Long Island, New York if you can call the United States for free..... or if not, e-mail me....
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