Best plan to part out?
#1
Best plan to part out?
Trying to decide if this '56 98 could be restored or should be parted out. Have been reading some threads in the vintage section and info is interesting. Car has 324 and jetaway (has park position), some trim and power windows and seat. Car has serious floor rust, quarters have poor patches in them. The four door next to it has a running engine and trans shifted when moved around yard, but no brakes (no power) when seems like might be an advantage. What do you guys think? https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/...291033350.html
#2
I think....
Trying to decide if this '56 98 could be restored or should be parted out. Have been reading some threads in the vintage section and info is interesting. Car has 324 and jetaway (has park position), some trim and power windows and seat. Car has serious floor rust, quarters have poor patches in them. The four door next to it has a running engine and trans shifted when moved around yard, but no brakes (no power) when seems like might be an advantage. What do you guys think? https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/...291033350.html
I doubt you'd get your money back in parting them out and you'd be starting from way down in the hole to restore the 98. I think you can do better if you are patient and willing to look at different regions that are not so hard on car bodies. Southwest and Intermountain States come to mind as places where cars seem to age well and aren't too expensive. If you want to restore you will finish up with a better car for less total money by buying a decent runner and paying more to start than by buying a rusty, dented and non-running car that's been left out in snow, mud etc. Just my nickel's worth.
Whatever you do don't buy one without a good title. I've learned the hard way to pass them by if the seller doesn't have a clean title.
Jerry
#3
Thanks for your thoughts Jerry, I own the cars and was thinking maybe part out what there is of good parts on the 98. The 88 is not as rough and I like four doors, sold a '57 belair a while back. Any idea what engine and trans would be worth?
#4
As mentioned above the rust would be a deal stopper for me. There will be surprises to uncover in both those cars.
I see unstuck 324 go from $300 up as cores, transmissions for about the same. More money if there is documented work done recently .... Just my 2 cents,,,, Tedd
I see unstuck 324 go from $300 up as cores, transmissions for about the same. More money if there is documented work done recently .... Just my 2 cents,,,, Tedd
#5
Thanks Ted, will have to see if engine is free or stuck on 98. Did not pay much for either car, got the 324 running the next day when I got the more door. Both cars where delivered to me, have four original rims with four door, if anyone needs trim or any other parts from 98, would like them to go to people on this site.
#6
By chance if the engine is stuck it is a bitch (but doable) to separate the trans from the engine. The transmission is always worth more if you can rotate the crank on the engine even though the engine is junk other wise you can't get to the multitude of bolts on the flex plate.... Just a thought.... Tedd
#7
Thanks for info on trans/engine, have not worked on these earlier cars. Can these transmissions be put into gear while rolling to free up engine, if it will not turn with breaker bar on damper.
#8
I don't know on a jetaway, yes on a slant pan but it's doubtful if it will break free that way if you can't turn it with a bar with the plugs out.I have started a car with a dead battery that way but I'm sure to get a stuck engine to turn you would put a huge strain on the transmission.
If you are trying to save the engine and the trans My best solution has been to pull the plugs dump a mixture 50/50 of ATF and acetone down each hole and let it set for a few days or more then try the bar and socket again. If that doesn't work you have big problems. Engine needs to be pulled with the transmission, heads need to be taken off , pan off, unbolt all the rod bolts you can( there will be a couple you cant reach because you can't rotate the crank) then drive all the pistons that you can out using a BFH and a stick of wood work it both ways.Try the bar and socket again.Hopefully it will turn with only two pistons left stuck. At this time you will have to evaluate whether or not the engine is salvageable or junk. Now is time the main caps come off and you should be able to pull the crank up and away with the flex plate and transmission attached. The rest is easy... But that is why I don't buy transmissions with stuck engines attached.... Tedd
If you are trying to save the engine and the trans My best solution has been to pull the plugs dump a mixture 50/50 of ATF and acetone down each hole and let it set for a few days or more then try the bar and socket again. If that doesn't work you have big problems. Engine needs to be pulled with the transmission, heads need to be taken off , pan off, unbolt all the rod bolts you can( there will be a couple you cant reach because you can't rotate the crank) then drive all the pistons that you can out using a BFH and a stick of wood work it both ways.Try the bar and socket again.Hopefully it will turn with only two pistons left stuck. At this time you will have to evaluate whether or not the engine is salvageable or junk. Now is time the main caps come off and you should be able to pull the crank up and away with the flex plate and transmission attached. The rest is easy... But that is why I don't buy transmissions with stuck engines attached.... Tedd
#9
Good news the engine turned over with battery , it is the 324 with #10 heads and four barrel. Took a video of it rolling over. Next item is the 98's power seat, has the motor, side plastic pieces with switch, harness and the seat trim pieces. Any idea's what complete seat is worth?
#10
Found a seat in rough shape listed for $2000, after some research found the hardtop and convertible share a lot of parts. Seems like not many of these two doors get parted out.
#11
Keep in mind, listed and sold are two way different things. Only a fool would pay $2000 for the seat. Granted there are many fools out there but my thoughts are the seat is worth maybe $600. And then there is the shipping. I believe a regular seat will bolt onto the power seat tracks. By doing that somebody can use their existing seat and not have to worry about reupholstering another seat to match their car and the freight is only a fraction of what it would cost to ship the seat. I would love to have a power seat in my 54. It would mostly be for the sake of adding another accessory since I rarely move the seat.
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