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Finally got the Olds out of the basement and into my shop. I put it on stands today and took a look under it. Can some one tell me what the big canister made into the right side of the oil pan is for? This is my first old model Olds and I must admit I know very little about them. They are nothing like the Tri Five Chevys I'v owned.
My next question concerns the engine. Has any one done a LS swap? What is involved as far as dealing with the cross members, room for trans or any other problems that have been ran into? Or, should I redo the 371 and run the J2 set up? Over all estimate on price diff? I'm leaning toward keeping the 371 with the 3 carbs but parts I have checked on seem to be expensive.
Thanks,
David
Last edited by graysuper88; August 17th, 2017 at 05:47 AM.
Reason: spelling
Finally got the Olds out of the basement and into my shop. I put it on stands today and took a look under it. Can some one tell me what the big canister made into the right side of the oil pan is for. This is my first old model Olds and I must admit I know very little about them. They are nothing like the Tri Five Chevys I'v owned.
My next question concerns the engine. Has any one done a LS swap? What is involved as far as the dealing with the cross members, room for trans or any other problems that have been ran into? Or, should I redo the 371 and run the J2 set up? Over all estimate on price diff? I'm leaning toward keeping the 371 with the 3 carbs but parts I have checked on seem to be expensive.
Thanks,
David
The "canister" is for increased oil capacity. The capacity is 5 quarts without the filter and 6 quarts with the filter.
I'd vote for the original 371/J2 if things are "reasonable" with it.
X2 with what Ozzie said.The 371 is a strong engine and with out a doubt you will get more complements on a original engine than a LS swap especially with the three two set up. If performance is the determining factor then the LS will probably be cheaper and quicker but just like the SBC engines they are becoming as common as belly buttons and not so much wow factor any more. Nothing will be cheap if you do a complete build on any 50's car and keep in mind they weigh over 4000 lbs, it takes more to make them quick, not much to make them cool... Just my thoughts from a guy who has been exactly where you are... Tedd
That canister contains the oil filter. A lot of us do conversions to spin on filters. Being one of the mid fifties guys on here (I am referring to the car and not my age unfortunately), I vote for keeping the 371. The first generation Olds engines are great engines. As mentioned they are not cheap to rebuild. Nice looking Olds by the way. I do like the 57's.
Finally got the Olds out of the basement and into my shop. I put it on stands today and took a look under it. Can some one tell me what the big canister made into the right side of the oil pan is for? This is my first old model Olds and I must admit I know very little about them. They are nothing like the Tri Five Chevys I'v owned.
My next question concerns the engine. Has any one done a LS swap? What is involved as far as dealing with the cross members, room for trans or any other problems that have been ran into? Or, should I redo the 371 and run the J2 set up? Over all estimate on price diff? I'm leaning toward keeping the 371 with the 3 carbs but parts I have checked on seem to be expensive.
Thanks,
David
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I've built a number of street rods. Most of them too old to make using the original 4, 6 or Straight 8 engine practical. But I try to stick to the same brand engine and car. In your case you may be spending more on a rebuild than on an LS but don't forget with the LS you have to mess with new motor mounts, new cooling system, possibly moving steering gear around, adapting to fuel injection with a new fuel tank, return lines and high pressure fuel pump in the tank. Plus by sticking with the 371 you can keep your transmission, driveshaft and rear end. All that goes along with the LS transplant could easily cost more in the final tally than rebuilding the 371. and you get several very knowledgeable people who know Olds inside and out to use as consultants. If you want to move on to another car later on I'd wager your reworked 57 with a 57 Olds engine would bring more and sell faster than an LS engine in a 57 Olds. Just my two cents worth.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; August 17th, 2017 at 12:26 PM.
Reason: clarify
That is strange. That has to be something somebody added. It is about the size of the oil filter canister but it is turned 90 degrees from what the oil filter would be. It looks like somebody's attempt to add capacity. Why wouldn't they just use an oil filter. It will be interesting to see if anybody else has seen anything like that. I would get another pan and add an oil filter.
That is strange. That has to be something somebody added. It looks like somebody's attempt to add capacity. I would get another pan and add an oil filter.
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong, and wrong. That is called a stock oil pan on 371's and some 394's
Thanks for the replies. At this point I am going to stay with the 371. The previous owner said the cam was broken. Pulled it out to day. Was not broken but every lobe is almost round. Hope the bottom end is in better shape but I know all that metal went somewhere.
Last edited by graysuper88; August 31st, 2017 at 04:45 PM.
Hopefully in that orange oil canister. If mine I would cut open that filter and see what lies within. if much metallic is present you will need to see what the mains and rod bearings look like, may or may not be bad..... Tedd
After your tear-down/inspection, I hope that we'll get a report. Also I hope everyone will be very careful when choosing an engine lubricant for their "old timers".
Is this thread the best place for 57-58 Olds 371 engines ? I have a J-2 manifold but no carbs or linkage. Who makes a cam for 371's that isn't a reground item ?
I remember hearing '57's were noted for cams going flat.......many years ago. That may explain why the '57 2 door sedan I have was junked in 1964.
RALPH
The 371 is now at the machine shop for a more thorough inspection. I did take the bottom end apart. Was very surprised to find the bearings were all gray, no copper showing anywhere. Crank has a few fine scratches. Over all I think it was in good shape other than all the cam lobes are round. I thought about just washing all the silver dust out of the lifer valley into the pan then draining. Just couldn't bring myself to short cut it. Being as I haven't worked on a 371 I need the experience anyway.
Last edited by graysuper88; November 29th, 2017 at 06:15 PM.
Reason: spelling
Thanks for the update, It's always fun and educational to hear how a project is doing especially after a opinion has been offered. We like to know when we screw up also..... Tedd
A '57 with a 371, especially with a J2 setup is the bomb!!! I used to run Boss 302s, Gotes, and the big Chryslers into the ground with mine, top end, and I was running a four barrel. The hiway patrol once told me that their cars would do a reliable 140mph and "you were pulling away from us." LOL... them were the days. Cheap gas and a friend working at a service station (does anyone know what that is anymore?) that let us root through his tire discards for rubber that we burned off in less than a week. As the saying goes, my Olds would pass everything on the road except a gas station...
Oh, and progressive mechanical linkage will be much better than the factory set-up on those three deuces...
And the Hydramatic is what made 140+ possible...
Last edited by Travlr; December 25th, 2017 at 07:40 AM.
The 371 is now at the machine shop for a more thorough inspection. I did take the bottom end apart. Was very surprised to find the bearings were all gray, no copper showing anywhere. Crank has a few fine scratches. Over all I think it was in good shape other than all the cam lobes are round. I thought about just washing all the silver dust out of the lifer valley into the pan then draining. Just couldn't bring myself to short cut it. Being as I haven't worked on a 371 I need the experience anyway.
Good luck. Post some pics when you can. Ross Racing engines may have some things for your engine. RockAuto has some stuff also. A cam and lifters might be harder to find.
Ralph
A '57 with a 371, especially with a J2 setup is the bomb!!! I used to run Boss 302s, Gotes, and the big Chryslers into the ground with mine, top end, and I was running a four barrel. The hiway patrol once told me that their cars would do a reliable 140mph and "you were pulling away from us." LOL... them were the days. Cheap gas and a friend working at a service station (does anyone know what that is anymore?) that let us root through his tire discards for rubber that we burned off in less than a week. As the saying goes, my Olds would pass everything on the road except a gas station...
Oh, and progressive mechanical linkage will be much better than the factory set-up on those three deuces...
I am jealous, though. With an imagination like yours, I could make a good living.
Ah... so you ARE calling me a liar. Always gotta be one guy in the crowd that can't handle stories they don't have themselves. Sorry you feel that way.
Hope everyone had a great Christmas. Time to get back to work. Went to the machine shop today to see their progress on my block. It has been cleaned and checked for cracks. Crank checked good just need polished, rods are good. Ah, but we knew there would have to be a little bad , didn't we? Both front cylinders have a lot of wear where the top ring stops. They said would likely have some slap till it warmed up because of that and the skirts being worn. Also the ring grooves are worn, rings have lot of up and down slop in them. They suggest boring. Think I will take their advice. Won't want to do anything I would be sick of later. To much to gamble on. I need to get .030 over pistons, .030 rings, oil pump, timing set and a 2 piece rubber rear main seal. Read somewhere that a rubber seal is available . Also need timing chain and oil pump. Does any one have a reliable supplier they have dealt with where I can get all I need? Would like to get everything in one place.Need to be budget minded but don't want cheap junk. Thanks again for all the response.
Check other threads. There is a BSpaulding on a fairly recent thread who got pistons from "Mondello". I am not sure if it was from the Mondello in Tennesee. Ross Racing Engines might also be a source.
Finding everything in one place might not be possible, but worth a try.
I think the thread has something about "J-2 jetting". I am kinda new on here, so I am not sure how to search or refer you to another thread. Help me out here guys.
Ralph
Check other threads. There is a BSpaulding on a fairly recent thread who got pistons from "Mondello". I am not sure if it was from the Mondello in Tennesee. Ross Racing Engines might also be a source.
Finding everything in one place might not be possible, but worth a try.
I think the thread has something about "J-2 jetting". I am kinda new on here, so I am not sure how to search or refer you to another thread. Help me out here guys.
Ralph
Finally have the short block together. Bored .030 with Egge pistons. Polished standard crank, new cam. Before someone calls me out on the paint not being correct the VHT gold was 6.95 a can while the correct color is 18.95 a can from a vendor. It will be a driver, not a show piece.
Now for my question. I was going to put the crank pulley on when I noticed there aren't any timing marks on it. My old Chilton book states there should be three marks on the pulley. Mine has none and doesn't look like it has ever been tampered with. Has anyone seen the same thing? Have a solution?
Ok, that was two questions. Thanks to all.
Finally have the short block together. Bored .030 with Egge pistons. Polished standard crank, new cam. Before someone calls me out on the paint not being correct the VHT gold was 6.95 a can while the correct color is 18.95 a can from a vendor. It will be a driver, not a show piece.
Now for my question. I was going to put the crank pulley on when I noticed there aren't any timing marks on it. My old Chilton book states there should be three marks on the pulley. Mine has none and doesn't look like it has ever been tampered with. Has anyone seen the same thing? Have a solution?
Ok, that was two questions. Thanks to all.
David
The Chilton book is partly correct according to the 1957 Olds shop manual. First there is nothing on the pulley portion of the assembly. The marks are on the balancer portion. It says there were two types used in 1957. The early type had one "notch" on the rear edge of the balancer. The leading edge of the notch was 5 degrees before top dead center. The trailing edge was TDC. This was the same on earlier model Oldsmobiles. The second type had three "saw slots" also on the rear edge of the balancer. The leading slot was 10 degrees before TDC; the center slot was 5 degrees before TDC; the trailing slot was TDC. Of course, if the bond has broken between the pulley and the balancer ring, all values will be off.
Ozzie, I will post a pic of my balancer later today. I may be in trouble as there is no ring separated by rubber like a Chevy. Just a cast pulley with two grooves. It was off the engine when I got the car. My neighbor had started the tear down before he passed so I have no idea what it looked like when he took it off. Thanks.
This is the crank pulley I have. It has no notches or marks anywhere. On the crank side of the pulley you can almost see a faint line that might have been left by a rubber ring. Do I have the correct pulley or do I need to find one?
This is the crank pulley I have. It has no notches or marks anywhere. On the crank side of the pulley you can almost see a faint line that might have been left by a rubber ring. Do I have the correct pulley or do I need to find one?
Thanks again.
You are completely missing the outer ring of the balancer .
The best thing to do , is to get another '57 balancer and have it rebuilt .
The Damper Doctor did mine . http://www.damperdoctor.com/
Yes, the "ring" is missing. It likely lost its bond and was discarded. Unless you can recover it, follow Charlie's advice. You should have a complete assembly for your engine. I once did a rebuild myself on my '55, but unless you have experience and the correct material I would recommend having it done by a professional.
After a lot of problems with the center carb and also having to remove one head, #8 only had 50psi, I fired my fresh engine today with a 4 barrel on it. Fired first crank. Let it run for 30 minutes at 1500 to 2000 rpm. Had 50psi oil pressure at 2000rpm hot. I was told by the machine shop and another guy, who runs a 51 Olds in a rat rod, that I should retorque the head bolts while its hot. I pulled the valve covers to do so and discovered that the tips of the rockers where just barely wet. Head had no oil on it except the drain groove at the bottom was wet. No standing oil. This doesn't look right. Chevys and others I have worked on sling oil over the fenders. Valve cover just had a damp spot on them . What is going on? Do I need to take the rocker shafts off and take a part? Is it ok to break the head bolt loose to do so? Are they the same or a left and a right? Sorry for so many questions. My Chilton manual give no info on rocker shaft removal. This is fast turning into the car from Hell. Any help is always appreciated.
After a lot of problems with the center carb and also having to remove one head, #8 only had 50psi, I fired my fresh engine today with a 4 barrel on it. Fired first crank. Let it run for 30 minutes at 1500 to 2000 rpm. Had 50psi oil pressure at 2000rpm hot. I was told by the machine shop and another guy, who runs a 51 Olds in a rat rod, that I should retorque the head bolts while its hot. I pulled the valve covers to do so and discovered that the tips of the rockers where just barely wet. Head had no oil on it except the drain groove at the bottom was wet. No standing oil. This doesn't look right. Chevys and others I have worked on sling oil over the fenders. Valve cover just had a damp spot on them . What is going on? Do I need to take the rocker shafts off and take a part? Is it ok to break the head bolt loose to do so? Are they the same or a left and a right? Sorry for so many questions. My Chilton manual give no info on rocker shaft removal. This is fast turning into the car from Hell. Any help is always appreciated.
Don't panic ! This is NOT a Chevy .
The oiling system for the "early" rocket V-8s is completely different from a Chevy .
The oil comes from the camshaft area through galleries drilled in the block and heads to the rocker shafts . The shafts are hollow and have holes on the bottom to lube the rocker arms . There is no oil thru the pushrods.
As long as you can see some oil in the top end , you're OK .
August 16th, 2017, 04:39 PM
