53 running badly.
August 11th, 2016, 02:58 PM
#41
Administrator
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Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
From what I understand he has a ballast resistor, not a resistance wire. The system instructions stated that it can be run with or without the voltage drop for the coil. Either way the red wire to the module needs a switched 12v source.
http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf
http://www.pertronix.com/support/man...itor12vneg.pdf
August 11th, 2016, 05:48 PM
#42
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,393
I don't wish to discourage you, but in some previous post of yours ,you were concerned about your oil pressure showing very low when idling after motor warmed up,and I thought on one of your videos , that the lifters sounded louder than usual.If you have driven it very much with improper oil to the rocker arms and top of engine,a worn cam lobe, lifter, or pushrod , could easily be your problem. I sincerely hope not,but it is a possibility. Larry
August 11th, 2016, 10:17 PM
#43
74 2.8L Capri
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Napa, CA
Posts: 357
I don't wish to discourage you, but in some previous post of yours ,you were concerned about your oil pressure showing very low when idling after motor warmed up,and I thought on one of your videos , that the lifters sounded louder than usual.If you have driven it very much with improper oil to the rocker arms and top of engine,a worn cam lobe, lifter, or pushrod , could easily be your problem. I sincerely hope not,but it is a possibility. Larry
This is my fear as well. Coincidences do not really happen when trouble shooting engine problems.
1. The vale train looked dry, no oil
2. Noisy lifters
3. Ran ok for a while, then started missing.
4. Low oil pressure through out the engine.
A clue here is that no cylinder on the opposite side has misfired. If that were the case, good chance a cam lobe has been worn to the point a valve on #5 is not opening. But, this is not the case, so I would suspect a lifter problem itself, or a worn pushrod--if the spark is good.
This can't be good with little or no oil in the valve train. One simple thing to check, and takes little time. Drain the oil, and check the oil for metal particles. If you have a spin on oil filter adapter, change the filter and cut it apart, take the paper element apart, unfold it and look for flakes.
If no metal, that rules out a worn lifter. Metal, well now you have to figure out where from. Low oil pressure, could be main bearings, could be cam lobe.
Lots of trouble shooting to go before jumping to conclusions.
August 12th, 2016, 04:43 AM
#44
I don't wish to discourage you, but in some previous post of yours ,you were concerned about your oil pressure showing very low when idling after motor warmed up,and I thought on one of your videos , that the lifters sounded louder than usual.If you have driven it very much with improper oil to the rocker arms and top of engine,a worn cam lobe, lifter, or pushrod , could easily be your problem. I sincerely hope not,but it is a possibility. Larry
Nigel,
This is my fear as well. Coincidences do not really happen when trouble shooting engine problems.
1. The vale train looked dry, no oil
2. Noisy lifters
3. Ran ok for a while, then started missing.
4. Low oil pressure through out the engine.
A clue here is that no cylinder on the opposite side has misfired. If that were the case, good chance a cam lobe has been worn to the point a valve on #5 is not opening. But, this is not the case, so I would suspect a lifter problem itself, or a worn pushrod--if the spark is good.
This can't be good with little or no oil in the valve train. One simple thing to check, and takes little time. Drain the oil, and check the oil for metal particles. If you have a spin on oil filter adapter, change the filter and cut it apart, take the paper element apart, unfold it and look for flakes.
If no metal, that rules out a worn lifter. Metal, well now you have to figure out where from. Low oil pressure, could be main bearings, could be cam lobe.
Lots of trouble shooting to go before jumping to conclusions.
This is my fear as well. Coincidences do not really happen when trouble shooting engine problems.
1. The vale train looked dry, no oil
2. Noisy lifters
3. Ran ok for a while, then started missing.
4. Low oil pressure through out the engine.
A clue here is that no cylinder on the opposite side has misfired. If that were the case, good chance a cam lobe has been worn to the point a valve on #5 is not opening. But, this is not the case, so I would suspect a lifter problem itself, or a worn pushrod--if the spark is good.
This can't be good with little or no oil in the valve train. One simple thing to check, and takes little time. Drain the oil, and check the oil for metal particles. If you have a spin on oil filter adapter, change the filter and cut it apart, take the paper element apart, unfold it and look for flakes.
If no metal, that rules out a worn lifter. Metal, well now you have to figure out where from. Low oil pressure, could be main bearings, could be cam lobe.
Lots of trouble shooting to go before jumping to conclusions.
August 12th, 2016, 08:43 AM
#45
74 2.8L Capri
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Napa, CA
Posts: 357
I know you've learned a lot on the car and I applaud your efforts. Knowledge is never a bad thing. With that in mind, I would encourage you to check to oil.
If you don't have that spin on filter, you can still do this. I don't know your expertise level, but here is how to do it:
1. Drain the oil normally
2. Let the pan with the oil sit for a while
3. pour the oil into whatever drum or can you would normally recycle/dispose of it
4. Don't clean out the pan you drained it from. In fact, leave a bit of oil in the bottom, so don't pour it all into the can
5. Then with either a very bright single point light, (Light bulb) or out in the bright sun, swirl the leftover oil around the bottom of the pan while looking for reflections and small particles.
If there is any metal, it will show up as flakes easily seen in the bottom. The color can help you isolate where it's from. See if it's magnetic, or not.
If there is no metal, then it's good news. It's a step to trouble shoot. If there is, then at least you are narrowing the troubleshooting tree. Now, small amounts of metal is normal. If it's a cornucopia of rainbow colors, which it would be if you have a cam problem, Bad news. But a small amount of flakes is ok. Once you've seen it you'll understand.
Good luck. Dave
August 12th, 2016, 10:22 AM
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,393
Nigel,you are to be admired for not getting completely disgusted! You have worked so hard and accomplished so much. Just think though,that each time you are "Banging your head", there is a dozen or more of us on C.O. Forum ,that are here "Banging ours also".I too am looking forward to us altogether finding the problem, and you be able to do some "Enjoyable Riding". Larry
August 12th, 2016, 12:46 PM
#47
Nigel,
I know you've learned a lot on the car and I applaud your efforts. Knowledge is never a bad thing. With that in mind, I would encourage you to check to oil.
If you don't have that spin on filter, you can still do this. I don't know your expertise level, but here is how to do it:
1. Drain the oil normally
2. Let the pan with the oil sit for a while
3. pour the oil into whatever drum or can you would normally recycle/dispose of it
4. Don't clean out the pan you drained it from. In fact, leave a bit of oil in the bottom, so don't pour it all into the can
5. Then with either a very bright single point light, (Light bulb) or out in the bright sun, swirl the leftover oil around the bottom of the pan while looking for reflections and small particles.
If there is any metal, it will show up as flakes easily seen in the bottom. The color can help you isolate where it's from. See if it's magnetic, or not.
If there is no metal, then it's good news. It's a step to trouble shoot. If there is, then at least you are narrowing the troubleshooting tree. Now, small amounts of metal is normal. If it's a cornucopia of rainbow colors, which it would be if you have a cam problem, Bad news. But a small amount of flakes is ok. Once you've seen it you'll understand.
Good luck. Dave
I know you've learned a lot on the car and I applaud your efforts. Knowledge is never a bad thing. With that in mind, I would encourage you to check to oil.
If you don't have that spin on filter, you can still do this. I don't know your expertise level, but here is how to do it:
1. Drain the oil normally
2. Let the pan with the oil sit for a while
3. pour the oil into whatever drum or can you would normally recycle/dispose of it
4. Don't clean out the pan you drained it from. In fact, leave a bit of oil in the bottom, so don't pour it all into the can
5. Then with either a very bright single point light, (Light bulb) or out in the bright sun, swirl the leftover oil around the bottom of the pan while looking for reflections and small particles.
If there is any metal, it will show up as flakes easily seen in the bottom. The color can help you isolate where it's from. See if it's magnetic, or not.
If there is no metal, then it's good news. It's a step to trouble shoot. If there is, then at least you are narrowing the troubleshooting tree. Now, small amounts of metal is normal. If it's a cornucopia of rainbow colors, which it would be if you have a cam problem, Bad news. But a small amount of flakes is ok. Once you've seen it you'll understand.
Good luck. Dave
Nigel,you are to be admired for not getting completely disgusted! You have worked so hard and accomplished so much. Just think though,that each time you are "Banging your head", there is a dozen or more of us on C.O. Forum ,that are here "Banging ours also".I too am looking forward to us altogether finding the problem, and you be able to do some "Enjoyable Riding". Larry
Well here are the next video instalments..lol
VT looks OK, and thankfully the valley shows evidence of plenty of oil sloshing around, but I am suspicious of the lifters so ordering a new set and push rods too....I should have done that in the beginning.
August 12th, 2016, 01:02 PM
#49
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Hi Nigel.
I must say, you're doing a hell of a job. I don't think I would have taken off the intake (again) yet, but it's good that you did. When all of this is finally sorted, I suspect it would be wise to do something very nice for the Missus, as it seems to me she's been very kind about all of this.
Everything looks appropriately oiled to me, but, of course, the First Generation Olds guys will need to confirm that what you've got is normal for that engine.
What I could see of your cam looked good.
Your valves all seemed to be moving the same amount, which would indicate your cam lobes are good, and, regardless, they were moving enough for that cylinder to fire.
I agree that you seemed to have no decrease in speed when removing either #5 or #7 plug wire -- Next Test: Remove both wires and see if the speed changes. If not, you've confirmed that the problem lies in both cylinders.
I do not see a need for new pushrods at this time.
Also, it would be great to see a photo of all of your spark plugs lined up facing each other, as they are when installed, to see what, if any, differences they show.
So far, so good, and I think you've close to ruled out any serious internal mechanical problems.
- Eric
I must say, you're doing a hell of a job. I don't think I would have taken off the intake (again) yet, but it's good that you did. When all of this is finally sorted, I suspect it would be wise to do something very nice for the Missus, as it seems to me she's been very kind about all of this.
Everything looks appropriately oiled to me, but, of course, the First Generation Olds guys will need to confirm that what you've got is normal for that engine.
What I could see of your cam looked good.
Your valves all seemed to be moving the same amount, which would indicate your cam lobes are good, and, regardless, they were moving enough for that cylinder to fire.
I agree that you seemed to have no decrease in speed when removing either #5 or #7 plug wire -- Next Test: Remove both wires and see if the speed changes. If not, you've confirmed that the problem lies in both cylinders.
I do not see a need for new pushrods at this time.
Also, it would be great to see a photo of all of your spark plugs lined up facing each other, as they are when installed, to see what, if any, differences they show.
So far, so good, and I think you've close to ruled out any serious internal mechanical problems.
- Eric
August 12th, 2016, 01:22 PM
#50
Hi Nigel.
I must say, you're doing a hell of a job. I don't think I would have taken off the intake (again) yet, but it's good that you did. When all of this is finally sorted, I suspect it would be wise to do something very nice for the Missus, as it seems to me she's been very kind about all of this.
Everything looks appropriately oiled to me, but, of course, the First Generation Olds guys will need to confirm that what you've got is normal for that engine.
What I could see of your cam looked good.
Your valves all seemed to be moving the same amount, which would indicate your cam lobes are good, and, regardless, they were moving enough for that cylinder to fire.
I agree that you seemed to have no decrease in speed when removing either #5 or #7 plug wire -- Next Test: Remove both wires and see if the speed changes. If not, you've confirmed that the problem lies in both cylinders.
I do not see a need for new pushrods at this time.
Also, it would be great to see a photo of all of your spark plugs lined up facing each other, as they are when installed, to see what, if any, differences they show.
So far, so good, and I think you've close to ruled out any serious internal mechanical problems.
- Eric
I must say, you're doing a hell of a job. I don't think I would have taken off the intake (again) yet, but it's good that you did. When all of this is finally sorted, I suspect it would be wise to do something very nice for the Missus, as it seems to me she's been very kind about all of this.
Everything looks appropriately oiled to me, but, of course, the First Generation Olds guys will need to confirm that what you've got is normal for that engine.
What I could see of your cam looked good.
Your valves all seemed to be moving the same amount, which would indicate your cam lobes are good, and, regardless, they were moving enough for that cylinder to fire.
I agree that you seemed to have no decrease in speed when removing either #5 or #7 plug wire -- Next Test: Remove both wires and see if the speed changes. If not, you've confirmed that the problem lies in both cylinders.
I do not see a need for new pushrods at this time.
Also, it would be great to see a photo of all of your spark plugs lined up facing each other, as they are when installed, to see what, if any, differences they show.
So far, so good, and I think you've close to ruled out any serious internal mechanical problems.
- Eric
I was very encouraged when I took off the valley cover, but God only knows how old those lifters are.
Got family staying for a couple of weeks so have to divide my time a little bit better
)
August 12th, 2016, 05:04 PM
#53
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,714
To me it looked a little shy in the rocker oiling department. They never will oil like a SBC which will splatter oil every where but it doesn't appear to be putting much out. Any one else that works on first generation motors concur or does my engine just put out more oil than what I'm seeing here?.... Tedd
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; August 12th, 2016 at 05:06 PM.
August 13th, 2016, 01:52 AM
#55
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.E. Louisiana, so far still in U.S.A.
Posts: 1,613
To me it looked a little shy in the rocker oiling department. They never will oil like a SBC which will splatter oil every where but it doesn't appear to be putting much out. Any one else that works on first generation motors concur or does my engine just put out more oil than what I'm seeing here?.... Tedd
August 13th, 2016, 05:22 AM
#57
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Question for the First Gen. guys:
Given that you see less oil on the top end than is usual for these engines, and given your experience with these engines, do you believe that the amount that you can see is still realistically enough to prevent damage or unusual wear (considering that probably all that is needed is for the contact surfaces to be wet)?
I can't answer that myself, as I have no experience with these.
Reason I ask is to help Nigel focus: If there is an oil flow problem, but it is unlikely to be immediately threatening, he can afford to ignore it for now, and concentrate on his bad cylinder, then get back to it at a more convenient time.
Question for Nigel:
When you had the engine apart. did you confirm that all of the pushrods were clear inside?
- Eric
Given that you see less oil on the top end than is usual for these engines, and given your experience with these engines, do you believe that the amount that you can see is still realistically enough to prevent damage or unusual wear (considering that probably all that is needed is for the contact surfaces to be wet)?
I can't answer that myself, as I have no experience with these.
Reason I ask is to help Nigel focus: If there is an oil flow problem, but it is unlikely to be immediately threatening, he can afford to ignore it for now, and concentrate on his bad cylinder, then get back to it at a more convenient time.
Question for Nigel:
When you had the engine apart. did you confirm that all of the pushrods were clear inside?
- Eric
August 13th, 2016, 09:14 AM
#58
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,393
I don't think it is dry enough to be that critical, that he could not persue his miss,but I was afraid that it had damaged a pushrod,lifter,or cam lobe,and any one of those could cause a miss on one cylinder. From what I can tell on the video ,that doesn't seem to be the cause of the miss. Best of luck, Larry
August 13th, 2016, 09:24 AM
#59
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
I don't think it is dry enough to be that critical, that he could not persue his miss,but I was afraid that it had damaged a pushrod,lifter,or cam lobe,and any one of those could cause a miss on one cylinder. From what I can tell on the video ,that doesn't seem to be the cause of the miss.
- Eric
August 13th, 2016, 01:31 PM
#60
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,714
Has a compression or leak down test been run?That would have given a better diagnose of which cylinder and why or whether it is mechanical or a electrical problem. If all the parts are evenly wet with oil more isn't necessary better, other than piece of mind.
the rockers appear to be fairly equal in up down movement but I would feel better if all of the push rods would rotate with the same ease. .... Tedd
the rockers appear to be fairly equal in up down movement but I would feel better if all of the push rods would rotate with the same ease. .... Tedd
August 13th, 2016, 01:52 PM
#61
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Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
August 13th, 2016, 02:01 PM
#62
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,714
As I saw it on the video he was rotating the push rod as the engine was running or am I thinking of the first video? I'm WRONG. Went back and took another look and the engine wasn't running. I believe I'm a bit touched today.... Tedd.
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; August 13th, 2016 at 02:10 PM.
August 14th, 2016, 06:57 AM
#63
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.E. Louisiana, so far still in U.S.A.
Posts: 1,613
Question for the First Gen. guys:
Given that you see less oil on the top end than is usual for these engines, and given your experience with these engines, do you believe that the amount that you can see is still realistically enough to prevent damage or unusual wear (considering that probably all that is needed is for the contact surfaces to be wet)?
I can't answer that myself, as I have no experience with these.
Reason I ask is to help Nigel focus: If there is an oil flow problem, but it is unlikely to be immediately threatening, he can afford to ignore it for now, and concentrate on his bad cylinder, then get back to it at a more convenient time.
Question for Nigel:
When you had the engine apart. did you confirm that all of the pushrods were clear inside?
- Eric
Given that you see less oil on the top end than is usual for these engines, and given your experience with these engines, do you believe that the amount that you can see is still realistically enough to prevent damage or unusual wear (considering that probably all that is needed is for the contact surfaces to be wet)?
I can't answer that myself, as I have no experience with these.
Reason I ask is to help Nigel focus: If there is an oil flow problem, but it is unlikely to be immediately threatening, he can afford to ignore it for now, and concentrate on his bad cylinder, then get back to it at a more convenient time.
Question for Nigel:
When you had the engine apart. did you confirm that all of the pushrods were clear inside?
- Eric
The stage 1 engines differed from the stage 2 engines on the path of oil to the rockers. Stage 2 fed each one through the lifter and push rod. Flow was controlled by the oil metering "valve" disk and the bottom of the push rod seat. On the stage 1, oil passed through the cylinder head into one of the interior rocker stands and then into the hollow rocker tube which had holes at each rocker location. The push rods were solid.
August 14th, 2016, 09:49 AM
#64
Anyway, It's all academic now guys as I've found the problem, I was curious why the rod on # 7 was spinning so freely....have a look at the video.
August 14th, 2016, 10:03 AM
#65
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Oh. That'll do it.
I couldn't play it loud enough to hear the audio while at work, so if you said anything, I missed it, but I would recommend doing a leakdown test on that cylinder once you've got a new spring, because poor spring pressure can cause burned valves (moreso on exhaust than intake though, so that's a good thing).
Since springs are cheap, I'd replace them all.
- Eric
I couldn't play it loud enough to hear the audio while at work, so if you said anything, I missed it, but I would recommend doing a leakdown test on that cylinder once you've got a new spring, because poor spring pressure can cause burned valves (moreso on exhaust than intake though, so that's a good thing).
Since springs are cheap, I'd replace them all.
- Eric
August 14th, 2016, 10:20 AM
#66
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,714
Good catch and not as expensive as most all of our other guessing was going to be.
That spring and keeper can be removed/ exchanged rather easily by using compressed air and an a adapter to the spark plughole to keep the valve up while you remove the spring and keeper. Or if you don't have a compressor you can stuff a bunch of 1/4 nylon rope down the spark plug hole, raze the piston and have it hold the valve up while you work on it, same thing just different way to do it. Hang in there you are getting it.... Tedd
That spring and keeper can be removed/ exchanged rather easily by using compressed air and an a adapter to the spark plughole to keep the valve up while you remove the spring and keeper. Or if you don't have a compressor you can stuff a bunch of 1/4 nylon rope down the spark plug hole, raze the piston and have it hold the valve up while you work on it, same thing just different way to do it. Hang in there you are getting it.... Tedd
August 14th, 2016, 10:24 AM
#67
Oh. That'll do it.
I couldn't play it loud enough to hear the audio while at work, so if you said anything, I missed it, but I would recommend doing a leakdown test on that cylinder once you've got a new spring, because poor spring pressure can cause burned valves (moreso on exhaust than intake though, so that's a good thing).
Since springs are cheap, I'd replace them all.
- Eric
I couldn't play it loud enough to hear the audio while at work, so if you said anything, I missed it, but I would recommend doing a leakdown test on that cylinder once you've got a new spring, because poor spring pressure can cause burned valves (moreso on exhaust than intake though, so that's a good thing).
Since springs are cheap, I'd replace them all.
- Eric
Someone suggested replacing the springs and a few other VT items when I had it apart, this is what you get for not taking good advice.
And you missed my narration...
August 14th, 2016, 10:31 AM
#68
Good catch and not as expensive as most all of our other guessing was going to be.
That spring and keeper can be removed/ exchanged rather easily by using compressed air and an a adapter to the spark plughole to keep the valve up while you remove the spring and keeper. Or if you don't have a compressor you can stuff a bunch of 1/4 nylon rope down the spark plug hole, raze the piston and have it hold the valve up while you work on it, same thing just different way to do it. Hang in there you are getting it.... Tedd
That spring and keeper can be removed/ exchanged rather easily by using compressed air and an a adapter to the spark plughole to keep the valve up while you remove the spring and keeper. Or if you don't have a compressor you can stuff a bunch of 1/4 nylon rope down the spark plug hole, raze the piston and have it hold the valve up while you work on it, same thing just different way to do it. Hang in there you are getting it.... Tedd
Thank you Tedd, I wasn't looking forward to pulling the heads again, so you've given me another option
..sounds good, but how would I compress the spring to get the keepers back on?
August 14th, 2016, 11:40 AM
#69
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,393
Once you have pressure to hold the valve on that cylinder ,you use a tool similar to this one that Autozone (in the U.S. ) sells for $19.95. Hope you are able to find one in Essex. Some of the parts stores have them that they will loan you. Glad you located the problem for your miss. Keep us posted. Maybe the broke spring was the rattling noise that I thought was noisy lifters. Larry
August 14th, 2016, 01:35 PM
#70
74 2.8L Capri
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Napa, CA
Posts: 357
Good news indeed. That explains #7.
I'm guessing that you'll replace all the valve springs?
That'll give you some time to re-evaluate and time to think on #5. I had an intermittent miss on one cylinder for a while. I never even knew it. Engine ran fine. Slight rumble at idle. 7 of 8? No problem. My stupidity entirely and I hate to admit it here, but a learning experience.
I went to check my trans oil, and bumped a plug wire and it fell off the plug. I didn't get the clip entirely on the end of the plug....it took a lot to push it over the tip on that particular plug and at an awkward angle. I know enough so I should have known better.....Now the only indication I have that the engine is still running at a stop light? Oil pressure gauge...
I'm guessing that you'll replace all the valve springs?
That'll give you some time to re-evaluate and time to think on #5. I had an intermittent miss on one cylinder for a while. I never even knew it. Engine ran fine. Slight rumble at idle. 7 of 8? No problem. My stupidity entirely and I hate to admit it here, but a learning experience.
I went to check my trans oil, and bumped a plug wire and it fell off the plug. I didn't get the clip entirely on the end of the plug....it took a lot to push it over the tip on that particular plug and at an awkward angle. I know enough so I should have known better.....Now the only indication I have that the engine is still running at a stop light? Oil pressure gauge...
Last edited by DFitz; August 14th, 2016 at 01:42 PM.
August 14th, 2016, 01:52 PM
#71
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Yeah. As I've posted somewhere around here before, a buddy of mine had a '67 Newport with a 383 back in the '90s. He moved from NY to California, drove cross country pulling a heavy trailer. When he got to Cali., and got settled in, he looked the car over, found a spark plug wire off. It'd been off the whole trip and he hadn't even noticed.
- Eric
- Eric
August 14th, 2016, 02:11 PM
#72
Once you have pressure to hold the valve on that cylinder ,you use a tool similar to this one that Autozone (in the U.S. ) sells for $19.95. Hope you are able to find one in Essex. Some of the parts stores have them that they will loan you. Glad you located the problem for your miss. Keep us posted. Maybe the broke spring was the rattling noise that I thought was noisy lifters. Larry
I'm replacing the lot Dave, I was assuming that this broken spring on 7 was also the culprit on 5? got new Lifters too.....watch this space.
August 15th, 2016, 12:44 AM
#73
74 2.8L Capri
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Napa, CA
Posts: 357
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