ponder48

At my wit's end. I rebuilt my 55 Olds 324 using all new stuff: Pistons, camshaft, lifters, push rods, camshaft bushings, main & rod bearings, oil pump, etc. I had a reputable company build the heads first since I wasn't planning on rebuilding the block. After seeing the gunk in the block I took it apart and took it to a reputable machine shop where they cleaned everything, bored the block, turned the crank and installed new camshaft bearings. I rebuilt the engine and tried to prime the pump on the engine stand before installing the intake with a tool I made to fit the shaft, but got no pressure at all. While priming, I could see oil flowing from the back of the block to the front below the camshaft. In fact, at the first priming the fuel pump had not been installed and oil blew out of the mounting hole. Assuming that the problem was because of not being able to turn the engine while priming, I went ahead and installed the engine and trans in the car. I bought an old distributor and ground off the teeth to use as a pump primer. I can only get about 15 lbs. pressure with the primer. When the engine is cranked the pressure may come up to about 5 to 8 lbs. and the lifters never build up to stop the clattering. The plug that oils the distributor gear is in the oil gallery down in the distributor hole and I can get some oil flow to the lifters now, but couldn't to start. Maybe this shouldn't have been done, but with the rocker shafts removed, I blew some air pressure in the hole where oil is fed into the rocker shaft until I could hear the air coming out somewhere inside the block. After the air pressure trial oil came up on the passengers (even cylinder) side pretty well before the rocker shaft was re-installed and up to the shaft after all bolts were re-torqued. Some oil came out of the odd side, but not as much as the even side before the rocker shaft was installed and very little after installation and re-torqueing.
Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks, Sick in Georgia.

droldsmorland

My guess...sounds like the builder left out the oil gallery restrictor plug at the rear behind the freeze plug??? Its the "oiler" for the distributor shaft. Its often overlooked with builders less familiar with Olds...typically a Chevy builder will commit this crime. That is...if the 324 is similar in design to the 330-455s? Have to rely on others to chime in who are more familiar with the 324s. Can you find an oil circuit diagram?
What style of oil filter do you have? What weight of oil are you using? If the build was done correctly, bearing clearances are spot on etc...then Id look at the above. Could the oil gauge be off? Always verify with a known good gauge before ripping it apart.

OLDSter Ralph

Are you getting these oil pressure readings using an electric drill to drive the oil pump ?

Tedd Thompson

It sounds like you have hit all the common issues on low oil pressure but here is one that is a little on the outside there area. Were you there when the heads and gaskets were installed, are you sure the head gaskets were for a 55. I ask because years ago it was common to swap heads and if the gaskets didn't match the block oil galley transfer holes low or no oil pressure was the results. All the oil was trapped below the heads. Also remember that you have to turn your oil pump counter clock wise to get much to happen.

If none of this helps you will need to check the oil pump and we both know what that means...... Tedd

ponder48

Thanks. I checked for the oil gallery plug and it is in place. With the difference in oil flow between the left and right side I'm thinking there must be some sort of restriction in the gallery you're speaking of. The only way I know to check for sure is to tear the engine down again, remove the plug and make sure the gallery is clean. I'll be sure to check bearing clearance when doing that. The crank was turned 10/10 and the bearings were all marked accordingly, so I didn't think about using plastiguage, but that may have been a good idea. I'm using 10w30 oil with a spin on filter adaptor which was on the engine before tear down. Every thing was working fine as far as oil pressure goes then, so should be working now. I'm 99% sure of the accuracy of the oil pressure gauge especially since the engine has lots of lifter noise when cranked and only about 5 - 8 lbs. pressure then. When I get the 15 lbs. I'm using a 2000 RPM drill which is spinning the pump as if the engine were spinning at 4000 RPM.

ponder48

Thanks again, Tedd. I assembled the engine myself. The engine is original to the car, but was rebuilt in about 1966 - about 12,000 miles ago - according to records that came with the car. After doing a great deal of checking it looks (repeat looks) as though the heads are original too. The gaskets have a slot that carries the oil from the gallery passages off the cam journal a short distance to the passages in the heads that carry the oil to the rocker shafts. I can get a fair amount of oil to come out on the passenger side, but not nearly as much out of the drivers side - that with the rockers removed. With the rockers re-installed enough oil come to the passenger side to oil the rockers on either side of the oil passage stand and even comes out of the spit holes in the rockers. However no oil comes to the rocker on the drivers side. I'm thinking there must be some sort of blockage somewhere inside the engine which means another tear down at which time I'll check bearing clearance too.
Do you think any damage was done to anything when I blew air through the oil passage in the head with the rockers off? Almost forgot, I decided to replace the oil pump even though the old one was holding such good pressure before removal of the engine. That didn't solve the problem. Gotta be internal. If I ever get this problem solved I'm gonna write a book about it!

droldsmorland

Good points Ted. I was gonna say look at the bypass in the filter adaptor but that shouldn't effect PSI...neither would a collapsed cheap oil filter as it would bypass. I have seen a filter come apart hard enough to cause a restriction as it plugged everything up in that area. Good simple check. Also, cut open the filter to inspect for debris. Then apart it comes. Could be the pump, pump drive eccentric, the pick-up... one can guess all day until it comes apart. Yep always good to verify machine work and bearing size with plastigauge. Follow up when you find it. Hope its minor.

droldsmorland

Mr Ponder...another thought...Did you hand prime each lifter? Verify the pushrod holes are a match with the lifter cup and all are the same internal oil passage diameter.

ponder48

I primed the lifters as best as I could. I've watched several videos that say priming is not necessary, but I like to do it anyway for safety. I have run the pump with a 2000 rpm drill while turning the engine by hand several revolutions hoping that would prime everything up. That's the way I found oil coming to the top. And I used a NAPA gold filter, so that shouldn't be a problem either. Wix makes NAPA gold filters. NAPA offers a cheaper version that doesn't have the anti drain valve that the gold has and I don't use the cheaper version anyway.

ponder48

I give up!! Who wants to buy a 55 Oldsmobile?

oldcutlass

Give Ross Racing a call, they know these engines better than anyone.
https://rossracingengines.oursafeserver.com/

tru-blue 442

https://rossracingengines.oursafeserver.com/

droldsmorland

Generally when you are at this point of frustration its best to walk away for a few hours even days. Get another perspective/opinion or two. You are likely missing something simple or some oddball thing only a seasoned 55, 324 wrench would know.
Don't give up, then the car wins. Think how rewarding it will be when the score is you 1 car 0.

OLDSter Ralph

Take a break away from the engine as suggested !
When you dis-assemble the engine, remove the oil pump. Use an air nozzle with a steel tube on the end with a champfer ground on the end. This champfer will allow you to press it into various sized holes and pressurize that portion of oil system. Then blow in every hole til you hear air blowing out. Try to work from the oil pump end and follow oil system path. Have a picture of the oiling system to follow.
I would think air should come out in two places (an opening upstream and an opening downstream). Keep track where the air is coming out, this will help locate any blockage. Keep a piece of wire handy to poke in to dislodge junk.
DON'T cover holes with bare fingers or body parts and wear safety glasses.

ponder48

Thanks! Already having 2nd thoughts. Closed up shop early and watched some TV. Will tackle later.

ponder48

Thanks! I'll be sure to try them.

ponder48

Thanks! Took a break and will be starting to pull the engine again next week. Will tear down and try your methods. I'd put some air to the drivers side head galley with the rocker assembly removed earlier. Removed the intake and valley cover today and saw evidence of some old oil gunk in the valley. Lets me know there's some gunk the cleaners didn't get out.
Eddie

ponder48

Well today I found my problem. Got the engine out yesterday and started tearing it down. Once the cam was out I noticed two threaded holes in the block behind the cam gear. No plugs in them, so I got on the internet to see what should be there and see that there is a hex plug in each hole. That hole is the oil gallery. My question now is this: Are the plugs special with a small hole in them, and if they are not found (I'll be calling the machine shop tomorrow, though I'm sure that's a lost cause) can I use a standard hex plug and bore a hole if necessary? What a relief to find the problem, but the oversite has caused me an awful lot of extra work and aggravation. I can't lay all the blame on the machine shop since I should have done more research on the rebuild because this is my first time.
Anyway, I really do appreciate all the advice you fellas have given me and I'll pass on this info: If this is your first rebuild do plenty of research before you get started.

Tedd Thompson

I thought we answered this issue in April and this was more of that same problem. If so that problem was answered twice post # 2 here and post # 2 and # 13 on the first post..... Did I miss something? Tedd https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...l-pump-134427/

ponder48

Tedd, I re-read all the posts on here and as nearly as I can tell you were speaking of the plug in the galley at the rear of the block that oils the distributor/cam gears. I found that one to be in place after buying a dentist's mirror and standing on my head, so that one wasn't the culprit. After pulling the engine again I find that the plug does not have the oiling hole you spoke of, so that will be corrected. The machine shop left out the two galley plugs in the front of the block on either side of the camshaft entrance hole. Almost all the oil was being fed to the timing end of the camshaft. I really don't understand how any oil at all was getting to the rockers, but the right side had a fair amount and the left side had a dribble. I should have noticed the vacant holes when installing the cam and gear (You can't see the plugs once the cam gear is in place), but didn't. By a very good stroke of luck I called the machine shop today and they found my plugs and will send them to me. The rebuilder isn't familiar with the older engines that use the spring loaded plunger to keep the cam from walking. He was thinking that they are like the newer ones with a plate held in place with two bolts. I didn't mention that since he removed them for cleanup he should have known to replace them. Both those plugs (which are not the same size) have holes in them to spray the timing chain.
Once again, I can't tell you how much your willingness to help is appreciated. BTW, I found out that the heads have a 10 cast into the center exhaust ports indicating that they are 56 heads. The original carb is a Carter rather than a Rochester and the distributor is a 56 model with the large round rotor and the weights under the rotor rather than down inside the housing. That makes me wonder if the heads could be factory. Of course, they could have been substituted way back in 66 when the engine was rebuilt the first time.

Tedd Thompson

That makes sense now... thanks. We try hard to figure these things out from afar, part of what I do is visualize where you are in the build and what mistakes I have or seen made made at that point.. Sometimes it is frustrating if parts of the equation are left out. Like a 1000 piece puzzle with out a picture to go by.. Hope that is the problem.... Good luck. Let us know the results.. Tedd

ponder48

50 lbs. oil pressure is a beautiful sight!!

OLDSter Ralph

That's great !

droldsmorland

There ya go! SCORE: You 1 car ZERO! Take that car!

Yellowstatue

Have the machine shop buy you and the Missus a steak dinner for all the aggravation you have had to endure!