1955 Olds Door Bumper stops
July 23rd, 2019, 10:12 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Portland, Oregon USA
Posts: 56
1955 Olds Door Bumper stops
Hi Gang,
Thanks for the advice on where to purchase rubber door bumpers for my 1955 Olds Super 88.
They arrived in the mail today, and I plan to try installing them in the next couple of days.
Only a couple questions.
1. Should I expect it to be hard to remove the old screws holding them in?
2. When installing the new screws and rubber stops, should I put a little grease on the screws to help prevent future rust and corrosion issues.
John in Portland, OR
Thanks for the advice on where to purchase rubber door bumpers for my 1955 Olds Super 88.
They arrived in the mail today, and I plan to try installing them in the next couple of days.
Only a couple questions.
1. Should I expect it to be hard to remove the old screws holding them in?
2. When installing the new screws and rubber stops, should I put a little grease on the screws to help prevent future rust and corrosion issues.
John in Portland, OR
July 24th, 2019, 04:27 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,714
I don't know if your screws are rusted stuck from here but you can try and bust them loose. If mine I would give them a shot of ATF and acetone once a day for three days or so and see if they budge. Have you been having trouble with other fasteners?
A little grease or anti seize should work for the next time you have to take them loose. If like the originals probably another 20 -30 years or so..... Tedd
A little grease or anti seize should work for the next time you have to take them loose. If like the originals probably another 20 -30 years or so..... Tedd
July 25th, 2019, 03:26 AM
#3
Frank Ignachuck
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Maynard, Massachusetts
Posts: 1,285
John, not sure if it's been mentioned before, but I just remembered that Restoration Specialties has a neat catalog that has actual size illustrations of rubber bumpers and grommets. http://www.restorationspecialties.com Request a hard copy for future reference.
Also, when you take the door panels off to replace the glass, you will need door panel fasteners. Page 129 of their catalog has the correct ones #2607 http://www.restorationspecialties.com/page_129.pdf
Also, when you take the door panels off to replace the glass, you will need door panel fasteners. Page 129 of their catalog has the correct ones #2607 http://www.restorationspecialties.com/page_129.pdf
July 25th, 2019, 08:12 AM
#4
Not sure if you're doing a restoration, but I'd be careful with that acetone/ATF mixture around paint. It does work wonders on bare parts though. Unless it's a part that requires specific torque, I always put a little grease etc. on parts when rebuilding, to keep the rust monster at bay.
July 25th, 2019, 11:44 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Portland, Oregon USA
Posts: 56
Thanks everyone for all the help! Some good news. My 55 came back from the shop and is in much better running condition overall.
They worked on the brakes, and u-joints, parking brake, bearings, carburetor adjustments, steam cleaned the engine to remove a lot of the old oil and grease, and a lot more.
I feel much better and safer about driving it now. And there are a lot less fumes coming into the cabin, so I feel much better about taking if for spins.
After getting it home I removed most of the old door bumpers, and replaced them with new ones. However, I found that a few of them are not held on by screws at all, but are just push in types that are held in place by their rubber bases. So, I will need to order a few more of those types.
Some other good news, I began troubleshooting the horn. My buddie came over to do it with me, and while he was standing right in front of the horns I put the jumper wire on the horn relay, from the battery terminal to the horn terminal, and boy did the two of us jump when we got blasted by a strong clear double horn sounding off.
I was glad to find that at least the horn itself is in good working order.
I will order a new horn relay and hope that is all it takes, though I know the issue could be in the horn button in the steering wheel.
My question and issue at this point is where to get power from the battery for the horn relay??? As I mentioned before, the wire that went to the battery terminal on the horn relay was cut at that terminal, and there is no obvious loose wire around that I can see that I can use to bring power to the new horn relay that I purchase.
Any suggestions guys??
On a lighter note, my daughter drove me along with her friend to pick the car up at the shop, and on the way explained to her that we were picking up an old classic car from the repair shop. There was no reaction from her at that time, but when she saw the car she was ecstatic and fell in love with it at first sight.
This has been the fun and unexpected thing for me. So many people walking down the street, who normally never would even say a word often stop and say "Hey, nice car, or wow, they don't make them like that anymore", and so many wonderful comments. It brings a smile to my face in this fast paced world that we live in to see people break out of their little private world and to start talking to a stranger like that.
Thanks as always,
John in Portland
PS - I will post this same reply at my main and original thread as well.
They worked on the brakes, and u-joints, parking brake, bearings, carburetor adjustments, steam cleaned the engine to remove a lot of the old oil and grease, and a lot more.
I feel much better and safer about driving it now. And there are a lot less fumes coming into the cabin, so I feel much better about taking if for spins.
After getting it home I removed most of the old door bumpers, and replaced them with new ones. However, I found that a few of them are not held on by screws at all, but are just push in types that are held in place by their rubber bases. So, I will need to order a few more of those types.
Some other good news, I began troubleshooting the horn. My buddie came over to do it with me, and while he was standing right in front of the horns I put the jumper wire on the horn relay, from the battery terminal to the horn terminal, and boy did the two of us jump when we got blasted by a strong clear double horn sounding off.
I was glad to find that at least the horn itself is in good working order.
I will order a new horn relay and hope that is all it takes, though I know the issue could be in the horn button in the steering wheel.
My question and issue at this point is where to get power from the battery for the horn relay??? As I mentioned before, the wire that went to the battery terminal on the horn relay was cut at that terminal, and there is no obvious loose wire around that I can see that I can use to bring power to the new horn relay that I purchase.
Any suggestions guys??
On a lighter note, my daughter drove me along with her friend to pick the car up at the shop, and on the way explained to her that we were picking up an old classic car from the repair shop. There was no reaction from her at that time, but when she saw the car she was ecstatic and fell in love with it at first sight.
This has been the fun and unexpected thing for me. So many people walking down the street, who normally never would even say a word often stop and say "Hey, nice car, or wow, they don't make them like that anymore", and so many wonderful comments. It brings a smile to my face in this fast paced world that we live in to see people break out of their little private world and to start talking to a stranger like that.
Thanks as always,
John in Portland
PS - I will post this same reply at my main and original thread as well.
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